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  #1  
Old 11-22-2013, 04:24 AM
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HELP TRUCK DIED

New here and to diesels but not automobiles.

First, MODS, I just spent 5 minutes writing a detailed description of the truck problems and nothing, because I was TIMED OUT. Why so short.

Truck ran fine, had fuel leak at the bowl. Degreased engine, repaired leaks, clean bowl, new filter, installed new fuel rail seals, etc.... Fires up, drive to store and go to leave, dead. Just cranks and a little sputter. Towed home.

Maybe water in a connector. Pull and check the entire engine harness, dielectric grease on all connectors. New 850 batteries (one was going bad). Fires up and dies when warm. Definitely get fuel pressure, since the new NAPA filter doesn't seal and it sprayed all over the formerly clean engine. New Motorcraft filter. (I know, I only use Motorcraft, but nobody near had one and I needed the truck running).

Fires up, runs smooth for 3/4 minutes and dies. Replace the potentially bad IPR and nothing!! Just cranks. HPOP had plenty of oil (right to the top) and I refilled it prior to cranking.

So, new clean fuel bowl and filter, new IPR, CPS new(1 year ago). New batteries, battery cables were also removed and cleaned. All electric connections checked and cleaned. ICM pulled and checked.

I'm at my wits end. I'm pulling the tank today to perform the tanks mods. and to clean it out.

This doesn't make since. Washed down the engine, NOT SPRAYING directly at and electrical connection or fuel intake delivery system. An the truck won't start. I have washed this engine down at least 3/4 time since I got it.

ANY IDEAS. I can't keep throwing money at this truck.
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  #2  
Old 11-22-2013, 07:31 AM
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Here's my usual No Start List;

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? (you should always post the year of your truck this may not apply depending on yr)

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check)

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Will it still start & run for the 3-4 mins or not at all now?

Has the Check Engine light been on or IS on now when it starts?

Stop throwing money at this for sure you'd be far better off investing in diagnostic equipment than sensors. What do you have to scan the PCM? (a regular OBD-II scanner, like the Parts Stores have, is pretty useless for us)
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:49 AM
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My list is bigger Ralph jk bud

Heres what i give to people. Diagnosing a 7.3 no start
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:33 AM
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I just went an fooled with the engine wiring harness. Truck has fired up, but not super smooth. I replaced the IPR because at 205 K I'm sure it was good idea. CPS was changed a year ago, IH brand. Definitely have fuel pressure, since it sprayed fuel everywhere when I used a NAPA filter. Ran and got a Motorcraft, that's fixed. Believe me, I'm not going to throw random money at this thing. I'm starting to think is the connections at the Valve covers. I pulled and reconnected them. I didn't run a continuity test on all the wires. I'm going to drain the tank and perform the in tank mods. Then I'll locate a proper code reader for the truck. I find it hard to believe something a simple as clean the top end can cause all this fuss. I have cleaned it before.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:06 AM
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Those connections are problematic (more so in the inside in fact) and might well be the cause.

BUT, you can have Fuel Pressure and Not have adequate Flow (could run-out after 3-4mins). Best test for that is to drain the bowl and look at the quantity/quality of what came out. Then turn the key to On for 15secs and back off. Drain again and compare, they should be the same. That would show you're getting the right volume too...
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:41 AM
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Well, this thing was running yesterday, but not today. Any ideas!!!!???? This is unbelievable. Finished the tank mods, full tank of new fuel. New IPR (NOT CHEAP are they). New fuel filter. I really don't want to pull valve covers- it's 34 for a high. Won't get out of the 40's this week and I don;t trust this thing to drive to a shop. Don't have hundreds for towing or just to throw at the truck. Working on getting a FORD code reader.
I'm seriously not please with the fact that a little water and simple green can kill this truck. I can't count how many other engines I've de-greased in my life. Geez, my 85 F-250 4WD had 380,000 on it when I sold it- only because I was leaving the country for 4 years. Wish I still had it!
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:22 AM
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Who's got the best prices, quality wiring harness connectors for the injectors?
I haven't checked yet, but is there a location for the resistance values for checking the injector wiring harness and associated sensor wires?
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:51 AM
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ANYONE?. So, I got a reader on this thing and did the buzz tests. All injectors fire/working properly. Did get the vague code for the harness (UVC). I pulled the covers and found a super clean engine. This thing looks as if it only has 30K on the engine. The wiring harness looks excellent (I know it could have issues not detected by the naked eye, but it definitely isn't shorting out/burnt/disconnected. I disconnected the harness, no oil in between the connectors. I installed the "shim". Buttoned it all up and fired her up. Ran super smooth- it ran very well before, but being new to diesel's I had no idea it would run this smoothly. Let it ideal for 5/10 minutes, drove it a few miles, stopped/turned it off, fired it back up after twenty minutes and off we go. YEAH, fixed!
BUT WAIT, next day start it up, running great for 2 minutes and dies. Turns over and over, but nothing. In frustration I jump in the MOST RELIABLE CAR EVER- 1990 Mazda Miata (200 plus K), shipped around the world twice, raced (hard for three straight seasons) and never left me stranded (excluding the time I forgot to put the radiator cap back on- but once it cooled I put water in her drove off). ANYWAY, I get home 7 hours later, try the truck and it fires right up and idles super smooth. Left it running in the driveway for 20 minutes without an issue. The SES light was staying on while the truck was running, but goes out when it dies(yes, the key was left in the run position).
So, what the heck is going on, PLEASE, this is getting ridiculous and I don't have spare money to dump into this thing.

RECAP- DCM appears fine, super drive, well sealed, new dielectric grease after terminals cleaned. Main engine harness removed and cleaned/checked- visible check only, looks good, dielectric grease and reassembled. New IPR (Motorcraft). Rebuilt fuel filter housing and new Motorcraft filter. Fuel drained and tank mods. performed (Hutch and Harpoon). New batteries-850CCA. CSA is good and have a spare. HPOP drained and new oil, oil change.
I can't believe there's one little wire somewhere causing this problem. What's next? I used to jump in this thing and just go. Now I'm losing all confidence in this truck, which is sad because I do like it.

Forgot to mention TSP chip. Should I pull it and see what happens?
Thanks.
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2013, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbgjc View Post
Who's got the best prices, quality wiring harness connectors for the injectors?
I haven't checked yet, but is there a location for the resistance values for checking the injector wiring harness and associated sensor wires?
I'll write about my experience over the weekend and maybe it'll help you. While sitting at the diesel truck fuel stop with engine running I topped off the tank. I had driven almost a hundred miles with an hour or so off time after that. Came back to truck after getting change $$$ Trucks running like crap. Long story short truck ended up dead and towed to shop. Turns out the right bank injector harness took a dump. John Wood told me that when a harness goes the exhaust manifold on the offending side will not be hot. There's a check you can do easily. He replaced the p.s. harness and it was running again. It did take a while for it to start running correctly though. He also ended up replacing one injector. He said that his computer showed a problem with #3 and that a b.o. harness can kill an injector. Anyway, truck runs great now. Better performance while towing with lower EGTs. As he let me watch the replacement. I purchased an Autozone harness to do the d.s. and finished it in a # of hours. I also replaced the batteries at his suggestion. He recommended Autozone Platium batteries. I did and they are heavy and expensive!!! But so is being along side the road. Hope this helps.
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