Truck shut off and won't start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 11-03-2013, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Truck shut off and won't start

Cruising down the highway tonight going about 65 and the truck just shut off and won't start back up. Already had the CPS replaced by Ford. I am thinking it was the chip came unseated off the PCM and caused it.

Any ideas? I am going to try and replace the CPS again tomorrow and then try and put the chip back on the PCM.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Charlie
2003 F250 CCSB 7.3--Gearhead tuned, MBRP 5", 6637, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, ISSPROs, HPx, 5% tint



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post #2 of 11 Old 11-03-2013, 07:40 PM
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If CPS was already replaced then it may be the hpop


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2000 F250 Super Duty, 4x4, 7.3, 6 speed manual, 4" straight exhaust, 6637 air filter, superwinch hub locks, zoodad, foil delete, AIH delete, power pedal, autometer gauges, 2.5" leveling kit, 260,000
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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How can I tell if it's the HPOP? It did keep throwing a check engine light under WOT runs.

Charlie
2003 F250 CCSB 7.3--Gearhead tuned, MBRP 5", 6637, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, ISSPROs, HPx, 5% tint



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post #4 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
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Well went out today and tried to pull codes but nothing came up. Check engine light stayed on though and the truck just cranks, but doesn't start.

Charlie
2003 F250 CCSB 7.3--Gearhead tuned, MBRP 5", 6637, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, ISSPROs, HPx, 5% tint



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post #5 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 06:52 AM
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You're not using the right scanner....

If the light's been on, there's a Stored Code that your code reader isn't capable of reading. Most aren't, our trucks are not, specifically, OBD-II and Generic Code Readers aren't of much use. Auto Parts Stores use the same thing, you need to find someone with a professional scanner and find out why that light is ON (I'd remove the chip for now to be sure it's not doing this)

Alternatively, you could invest in great diagnostic tool like the AutoEnginuity (@$350) for now and the future. If you happen to have an Android device, know something about curing communication problems with it, and are OK with limiting yourself to just reading codes (as opposed to doing 95% of what the dealership uses like the AE can) there's always the new TorqApp

But seriously, that code will be the quickest and surest way to find the problem.
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Well turns out it wasn't the HPOP (thank god). Just a bad connection with the chip. If I can't get it fixed I'm more than likely gonna get another PCM so I can put the chip back on.


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Charlie
2003 F250 CCSB 7.3--Gearhead tuned, MBRP 5", 6637, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, ISSPROs, HPx, 5% tint



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post #7 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 08:02 AM
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If you're good with soldering, or know somebody who is, you can just retin and build-up those traces on the PCMs board to restore the connection. Shouldn't be necessary to replace it...
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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What all does that involve? Just melting the soldering wire back onto the contacts? Seems easy enough.

Charlie
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 09:46 AM
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Well yes,,, just that you want a small tipped iron and thin solder so you don't bridge the lands. You can always go back and fix a bridge it if happened, just need to be careful and look at it with a glass when you're done.

PHP offers it as a service it's so commonly done as people scrape theirs down too much when removing the coating on the board. I did mine just to ensure a tight connection, I found it an easy thing to do but I have a lot of soldering experience...
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-04-2013, 11:37 AM
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If it's something you're uneasy with, or unsure of your ability, go to GoodWill, buy a $10 computer, pull some cards out, and practice. Tinning is simple and easy, but a little bit of practice on throw away parts is never a bad thing. You're not resoldering wires, your recovering contacts with solder. They're flat strips of copper on the card. Bare copper is bad, as it readily corrodes and hinders electrical flow. It doesn't take much, but you do need to balance heat and solder quantity to get a nice even layer. Like NoRalph said, get a pointy tip and thin strand solder. I'm sure you can find a few youtube videos showing you how to do it.

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