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Thanks...Here is what I found and considered helpful on my glow plug change
First of all thank you for those who helped me diagnose and then come up with a plan of attack on my glow plug change on my 02 7.3 yesterday. I am not going to lie, I let it take me most of the day as I went really slow taking my time cleaning things really well, brushing threads, cleaning contacts with deoxit, took trips to ford to buy extra gaskets etc and I will note a few things at the end of this post that I thought were helpful in my adventure for any of those who might take this on soon as we are getting into those months.
First of all I am glad that she was starting so bad in the cold because here is what I found...
1. There were fairly new AUTOLITES in there that I was tickled to get out of there. They all pulled ok but I know many don't
2. Multiple glow plug boots were not on very snug and pushed all the way down.
3. The crappy gasket that was in there had pinched wired between it and the valve cover exposing wires and causing failure
4. The aftermarket relay was even smaller then the OEM one by the looks and was puny compared to the Stancor that went in after all was put back in.
It was not really cold this morning however at 40 where she struggled before she started without hesitation. NICE! I am actually glad there was starting issues so I could find out that there were those shatty GP's in there and get them out before bigger issues started.
Here is what I found helpful or to take note of for future diy people and I will try to cover things that I have not already read on here where possible.
1. I think it helped a ton to give the compartment a good wash a couple of days before I took on the exercise with some gunk and a nice car wash location that allows engine cleaning with a LOW PRESSURE SETTING on the dial. Ford recommends under 1000 psi and shows you in the manual what to cover, but they do recommend it.
2. Order your stuff ahead of time to save some bucks from places like Riff Raff and double check your tool inventory to see if your lacking anything there. If your like me you hate stopping right when your *** and elbows deep into things to go get a small part and with that being said here are two things I would think about getting that I did not read about elsewhere.
A...I would suggest getting new gaskets for the CCV doghouse that is on top of the valve cover driver side, there are two on the bottom and two for the screws on top that hold it down. Whoever had worked on mine before reused the originals that in turn let in a little debris. Cheap insurance if you ask me.
B...When you pull the turbo intake hose that is connected to the dog house a lot of times there is one of those one time use irrigation style clamps used on the connection that needs to be clipped so have the proper sized hose clamp there to take the place of it or take a peek at yours and see if your clamp is reusable.
3. Have some PB blaster or other penetrating oil on hand and give the 42 pin connector stud nuts and the oil dipstick stud a shot ahead of time to allow time to work. I have read of many having issues getting these off and mine came right off after soaking a little.
4. Have some deoxit or some other contact cleaner on hand to take care of oxidized connections on anything you may come across. In my case the 42 pin connector was really oxidized and came out pretty clean with protection to boot afterwards. As soon as I had mine disconnected I sprayed it clean and then blew it out with the compressor before I pulled my valve cover off to keep contaminants out and give it a long time to dry while doing other work.
5. Round up your headlamp! I have always thought this to be one of my most used tools...I have all kinds of light and had good shop lighting but a decent headlamp with flood and spot is killer for many things around vehicle, trust me.
6. A 13mm wobble socket in 1/4 inch drive was the ticket for the back valve cover bolts with the proper extensions. You will also need 1/4 drive for the inside work and again a decent selection of extensions. Cheap if you can round up things early online. As a note I picked up the 18 piece craftsman set online and was quite impressed with the quality and as of this time it is one of the few things either still being made in the USA or their inventory is still USA. I don't know how well a simple wobble joint to fit on all sockets would have worked here. Mine was overly tight on the drivers side and I don't think that extra length would have worked out too well.
7. Anti seize for those bolts that were quite stubborn the first time.
8. If you plan on torquing things down to spec I could not get my 3/8 drive on nearly as many spots as I wished while in there and really would have loved to have a 1/4 inch drive one and will be getting one shortly.
9. Have a piece of 3/8 fuel line hose on hand about 6 inches long or so so that when you loosen the Glow plugs with your 10mm deep well before your ratchet socket gets bound in there you can slip it over the plug to finish backing it out and holding on to it firmly.
10. I found it nice to carefully blow out the "wells" around each plug of oil before removing them but have glasses on and drape a shop rag over the area to keep the spray or mist down.
11. Before even pulling your valve covers take your compressed air and blow the shmutz from the area and keep it from falling in once they are removed. Be sure to have all open holes from turbo lines etc covered with something to keep the crap from blowing in. I found a plastic grocery store bag and some rubberbands to work quite well.
12. Make sure to push the gp boots all the way down which can be tricky with slick hands, I found it easier to take a tool (your pick) and carefully push down on the top of the boot as it is flat and many of them went down further then I could of done by hand.
13. If you have bought a new inventory UVCH wiring harness then you cannot use the factory plastic support clips from ford so don't open the bag as they are already supported. You decide if it is enough support (I thought so) but don't waste your time staring at the clips and the supports scratching your head....they don't fit and i bet the 50 cent fix does not either but I did not try it.
14. Once your have reconnected everything under the valve cover go ahead and take the few minutes extra to take your multimeter and run an OHM test on the injectors and glow plugs before you re bury everything with everything you just spent so much time taking off to get to that area.
15. I would start with the driver side first as there is more room and it will give you a good feel before the tighter drivers side.
16. I you don't already have them some magnetic fender covers are really handy here with all the time you spend rubbing up against your rig. The ones I got at JEGS did great and stayed in place really well for cheap.
17. Last but not least in my application my Stancor relay needed to have one of the bottom tabs cut a little in order to sit flush in the mount so have a grinder with cutoff wheels or a hacksaw handy just in case.
I realize many of you will have these things already but some of you won't and it sure beats having to run around and grab crap if you are like me and cannot get the truck all the way in the garage in order to get the door closed and have to get it done once started or you don't have much time or just the simple fact you dislike running around.
Hope this helps some of you.
P.S if you have made it through this long read and you plan on using your original wiring harness that need the clips, zip ties or quarter trick if you give me your address I will be happy to send you my 15 dollar ford factory ones free of charge.