Think my 7.3 done blowd' up - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:59 PM
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Think my 7.3 done blowd' up

I bought a 99 7.3 with "bad pcm". Upon more investigation (still waiting to get my hands on a confirmed good PCM (one Napa sent is not giving me a WTS light, but the old "bad" one does give wts light). Can't get it to start for anything, even with ether (i know its a no no). I pulled the oil fill cap off and had a buddy crank it. It's shooting A LOT of air put of there. Like a good solid puff on every cylinder. Is it safe to assume this motor is shot?
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:01 AM
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Could be, but start with basics. Do you have 12 volts at the starter while cranking? Do you have proper fuel pressure? Could be several things, start simple and work up from there. Having the AE would be a good thing to read different sensors while cranking. I am assuming the engine is cranking and just not firing, right? Unplug the ICP sensor and see if it will start. Check oil level in HPOP and dipstick.
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powersportcomposites View Post
I bought a 99 7.3 with "bad pcm". Upon more investigation (still waiting to get my hands on a confirmed good PCM (one Napa sent is not giving me a WTS light, but the old "bad" one does give wts light). Can't get it to start for anything, even with ether (i know its a no no). I pulled the oil fill cap off and had a buddy crank it. It's shooting A LOT of air put of there. Like a good solid puff on every cylinder. Is it safe to assume this motor is shot?
Just so you know, you'll never get 12v at the starter while cranking. It will be somewhere around 10.

If you use a starting fluid please use WD40 or something like that, never ether.

Your PCM from Napa may either, 1. Isn't flashed correct to your setup or 2. Was never flashed to begin with.

To have it flashed or checked, it has to be in the truck at a dealer as their setup ties into the OBD port.

With the old PCM, does the tach move when cranking? If not, could be a CPS.

Is the HPOP oil reservoir filled up?

Is there fuel in the bowl and pressurizing?

If the HPOP system doesn't pressurize in a certain amount of time the PCM will "time out".

And the other things Hornet said to check.

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Last edited by hucorey; 09-08-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:47 PM
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Ok here is some more detail
Things I have done:
New CPS
New starter (didnt come with one)
2 new batteries
Tried with ICP disconnected
Checked that fuel bowl is pressurizing
Checked all fuses
Ether (ok ok i wont do it again)
Swapped PCM relays

The new PCM was flashed, and at the same time, the guy re flashed my old "broken one"
Old PCM gives WTS light every time.
New one doesnt. Maybe 1 or 2 out of twenty tries turning on the ignition. It was one rebuild by A1Cardone. They are going to take my OEM one and rebuild that one at no charge (although at this point im not even convinced its broken.) I could send back the one they send me and have them re-rebuild it, but the NAPA guy seemed to think it would be best to send them my orig. one.
I have a friend who works mostly on foreign high end stuff and he came by and did a "relative compression test" with an oscilloscope and he doesnt think the motor is bad.
I guess I have to wait for yet another PCM and then see what happens. I would like to have a local mechanic hook it up to a good scan tool but since that will cost me I would prefer to have a good PCM in hand.
When the last guy ran the snap on scanner on it with the old PCM he said it kept booting him out of the scan when he was doing whatever the diagnostic tests are. Hence him recommending a new one.
Any chance the IDM is the culprit here?
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:11 PM
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It could be the IDM. This is where you really need access to something like AutoEnginuity to do a buzz test and scan for other codes. Pull your valve cover and check while cranking to see if there is any oil coming out of the spill port. If not then your injectors are not firing.

Check the fuse for the IDM under the steering wheel. If it's bad, then unplug the fuel bowl heater on top of the engine put in a good fuse. They are on the same circuit.

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Old 09-10-2013, 04:11 AM
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Was hoping not to pull valve covers but looks like I don't have much choice at this point.....ahhhh
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powersportcomposites View Post
Was hoping not to pull valve covers but looks like I don't have much choice at this point.....ahhhh
Until you get AutoEnginuity or something similar, that's the only option you have to trouble shoot. But then again, at some point in time, AutoEnginuity or shop with diagnostics equipment is really your only option without throwing parts at it.

BTW, once you do valve covers a couple times, they aren't bad. Fairly easy, just uncomfortable without a topside creeper.

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