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CPS, they have been know to have random failures. They willl work, then not work, then work again. There is a check vavle in the fuel filter housing. It is in the center black tower in the hosuing. I gut the check valve. The only reason it is there is so that the engine will not run without the fuel filter. You have to take the filter out, and remove the fuel heater to get the black plastic tower out. Then pull the tower gut it and put it back. There is an oring on the tower the can be replaced if bad, but most of the time they are okay. Just remember to put in a fuel filter before replacing the cap on the housing. If you buy a filter with the lid attached then you never have to worry about it. I have never had a probelm with gutting the check valve. You also might want to check the fuel fitting at the heads. They have check valves built into them and have been known to plug. They do get a lot of crap in them over the years.
99.5 F-250 4x4, 7.3 PS
State 1 injectors from Rosewood, GT38 (van) turbo, S&B intake, Comp Cam's 910 valve springs, Smith Brothers pushrods, AIH delete TS 6-position chip. Pyro.
2005 front end conversion, 2008 tailgate, taillights, and rear bumper.
Edge CTS monitor, and 4" Exhaust (Manufacturer to be determined).