2002 Ford 7.3 missing/smoking/blowby - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:18 PM
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2002 Ford 7.3 missing/smoking/blowby

Hello everyone; Im new to the forum and appriciate all the great info. that everyone posts.

Now I would like to get some opinions on what may have caused my engine problems

1. I have a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 98000 miles
2. It has a edge evolution on it which I use just for the gauges I leave it on the stock setting
3. I replaced my turbo with a garret 38r around 4 months/3000 miles ago

My symptoms started out with a little miss and some blue/white smoke. So I took it to a local shop and he told me #3 injector failed hot or cold and that #8 injector failed cold. So I replaced all 8 injectors with stock remands from full force diesel. I did the work myself and torqued the injectors to 10 ft. lbs. I got it back running and still had the same miss and still had blue smoke at idle and start up. So after about 20 miles it was under heavy boost going uphill and started to miss BAD and was fogging white smoke at idle and when you rev. it up. So I tried to check the blow by and it just blows the oil cap clean off the fillers neck. Also when I replaced the injectors I noticed I had a lot of access oil in my intake tube going to the turbo as well.

So I went ahead and pulled my cab off so that it would be easier to work on my engine. I began to disassemble my engine further to find out what had happen. I discovered that I had a bent push rod on the front left cylinder and the piston behind that had a hole the size of a eraser in the lower indention and at least half of them had a faint crack in them.

Also I used either to get the truck started when I replaced the injectors. Would the either have caused the cracks and hole in the piston?

Please help, any ideas on my problem would help THANKS

Also guys I think there was a programer installed before I purchased the truck around 5 years/30000 miles ago. Is there any way I can get this programer or chip removed without me knowing what exactly is in it?
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:47 AM
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white smoke is unburned diesel fuel/moisture, blue smoke is crankcase/motor oil. Did the mechanic do a compression test on the motor when he was working on it? I think that would have given you a better idea on what was going on in there.

Ether is terrible and it's very easy to use too much of it which yes can crack a piston/bend a pushrod. A properly running motor (glow plugs, block heater working) should never need ether to start it.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:13 PM
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Ether will cause the cracks and holes in the pistons. My 99.5 had similar symptoms and I found the same cracked pistons and same size hole in the #5 piston along with a quarter size chunk out of the side of the same piston. The previous owner had been using ether to start the truck for some time base on the mostly used can of ether I found in the tool box after I bought it. Depending on how much you want to get into it here are some of your options. Standard sized pistons and rings will get the truck running again. If you plan on keeping the truck long term I would suggest taking the block to a reputable machine shop that rebuilds motors and have it board and honed. That will give you better compression and minimal blow by when done. They can also go over the whole motor and verify everything else is in good order. If you just go with new pistons and rings it will still have quite a bit of blow by but it shouldn't blow the oil cap off when you do the "oil cap blow by check." You will also need to put in new bearings for the piston rods. Speaking of which I believe the 2002 had powered rods which are inferior to the forged rods of earlier years. Again if you want to keep the truck long term and have plans for big power you should replace the powered rods with forged rods. At a minimum you are looking at pulling the motor completely since you can't change the pistons without pulling the motor. While you have the whole thing apart you should have buy a gasket kit and replace all the gaskets. With the heads off you should check the state of the valves and valve seats. If the valves have pitting on them you will should have a valve job done. Another thing to do is replace the low pressure oil pump. It's not an expensive part but is much, much easer to replace when the motor is out. Also don't forget to replace the fuel line gaskets. They are notorious for breaking down and leaking. I'm sure I'm missing something else that you should do while you have her taken apart and if I think of anything else I'll post it. As far as the issue of a programmer being installed prior to you buying the truck you can have the PCM flashed at a dealer once you get it back together. I feel you pan man I have been there before hence the name "Ether Baby."
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:06 AM
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Hey thanks everybody for all of the Great info. This helps me out A LOT. I decided to buy a rebuilt longblock with 3 year/ 75,000 mile warranty. I just finished the install yesterday and hope to have it started today.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:57 AM
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Hey guys I couldnt be more excited right now. I finally got the truck fired up yesterday and went out for a test drive. Everything is working perfect, Clean, and SMOOTH! Now to share some issues I had as I was trying to start her up.

1. I brunt the factory starter up on the second attempt of cranking the engine over. I replaced it with a Massive starter we had purchased for a older 7.3 a few years ago. And it is working great!

2. I was told by the company who built the engine to pressurize my oil system before start up. So I took a garden sprayer and filled both heads up with that unit before I installed the high pressure lines. But I just couldnt find anywhere to push the oil through in order for it to get to all the oiling areas. So I finally just filled the HPOP resivor, And finally put the rest in the fill neck.

3. So I did a few cycles with the key on to let the electric fuel pump run. Next I begin my cranking cycles. And I had read on here somwhere that you are sapposed to crank for 10-15 seconds then let the starter cool down. So I did this from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. with no luck of start up. I was getting very worried, I tried it one more time and just held on the key carnking for about 16 seconds and was about to let go when the starter was getting slower and slower and then a little sputter and WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! she roared to life.

I just let it idle for about five minutes in order to try and get all of the air out of the system, and then shut it down. Next I changed the oil as required by the company to keep my warrenty. Im glad I did too because there was A Lot of fine metal in the oil filter when I drained it out.

So now I have just been driving it close by the house and put around 30 miles on it. At first I had some white/blue smoke for about the first 3 miles which had me WORRIED again. But offcourse that cleared right up and now she is running PERFECT. Im waiting to really enjoy it after I get my computer flashed back to stock on thursday. Im just to scared sombody has programed this thing way to hot.

SO thats about it I thought it would be a miracle if it every ran again and I couldnt believe it when she fired up. Thanks Again For everyones help on here. I would have not been able to have it running without all of your great info.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:00 AM
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Good to hear that it all worked out for you. When I reassembled mine I just used Clevite engine assembly lube on all the moving internal parts. It fired up after just a couple of cranks, that and I filled the HPOP resivor. And now the fun begins, time for mods.

Last edited by Ether Baby; 06-27-2013 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyCobraJet View Post
Hey thanks everybody for all of the Great info. This helps me out A LOT. I decided to buy a rebuilt longblock with 3 year/ 75,000 mile warranty. I just finished the install yesterday and hope to have it started today.
Just curious, where did you buy the motor from and how much was it to your house if you don't mind me asking?
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