7.3L 2002 F350 Overheating - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 18 Old 06-10-2013, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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7.3L 2002 F350 Overheating

Hi guys,

On a recent trip, I had some over heating issues with my 2002 F350 7.3L Diesel. Truck is stock with a DP Tuner in it for Economy. Truck has had a very easy life for the most part.

I was pulling a 3000lb load, and had my coolant gauge, much to my surprise, rise and almost peg out to H (I let off it before that happened). Any uphill incline or if I stayed on it above 70~ MPH, I'd see the coolant needle temp climb rapidly.

We limped the truck back and home, not letting it overheat.

Once I took the trailer off, the truck temperature behaved normally. I could cruise on the highway and it never reached above the middle range.

I had taken the same trailer/load on a similar trip two weeks before this, and had no issues.

No coolant leaks that I can see, my overflow tank was still full. Truck had some water dripping out the passenger side, but this appeared to be from the A/C running.

I've replaced the radiator cap, and I have a new thermostat to install.

I took a look at the fan clutch, and after letting the engine warm up, I am able to turn the fan by hand with the engine off. It was suggested to me that this is indicative that the fan clutch is shot.

Any other suggestions on what to replace? Really hard to get confidence I've fixed it, as it only happens while towing.

I appreciate your guys help!

Thanks!
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post #2 of 18 Old 09-08-2013, 04:56 PM
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overheating

hi I am having the same problem on my 2001 7.3 did u ever figure your problem out thanks
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post #3 of 18 Old 09-08-2013, 05:10 PM
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You had a coolant gauge? Aftermarket or just the dash gauge?

7.3s RARELY overheat. I would of course check coolant level. Thermostat usually sticks open, causing low temps instead, but doesn't hurt to replace it.
Fan clutch should be making that fan roar. In 100*F temps and AC going, my fan clutch kicks in after some hwy cruising, and then stopping and starting again. It's obvious it's pulling extra air.

I would even guess maybe your ECT sensor is bad.
Is your coolant clean or oily?



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4R100, 2wd
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-05-2014, 08:28 PM
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Hi,

Did you figure out the cause of your overheating issue? I have a similar issue that just happened today!! I am hoping to get some info ASAP. I might need to get it into a mechanic as I just don't have the time to deal with it!

My 2002 F-350 7.3L overheated on me for the first time today. I was towing heavy, and it was hot, but I’ve towed heavy in the heat before. The temp gauge hit H on pulling a hill (I must have not looked for a few minutes), and I immediately backed off the throttle and turned the heater on high to dump the heat load. There was also some intermitent high-pitched squealing that seemed to start only as the truck was very hot.

Engine is stock with an Edge Evolution programmer in Stage 1. Truck has 176,000 miles.

No obvious coolant leaks.

No white or other odd smoke, just some very light sooty exhaust.

The coolant level in the overflow tank has never stayed at the “min” mark, which of course I’ve always been curious about, but I have not had issues in the past. So let’s say I fill it up to Max at cold temp, after driving, it will be below the Min line, even when hot. Have never noticed any leak. And it has never dropped below the mark that it “settles” at.

New water pump at 148,250
New 203deg thermostat from Dieselsite.com at 148,250 miles
Coolant flush at 148,250

Used Fleetrite ELC coolant as per:
Fleetrite ELC is approved and suggested by International. Can get from an International dealer. Same as Rotella ELC. Supplied to International by Shell. These are OATs. Definitely 2/99 and up are okay for OATs (but not pre 2/99 as some seals etc. were updated after this point and pre-2/99 were not hence the incompatibility). Can also use CAT ELC, Mobil 1 ELC, Prestone HD ELC, Zerex Extreme ELC, Peak Final Charge ELC.

New de-gas radiator tank (had some cracking - I was thinking/hoping this was why my coolant level would never stay full, but it didn't change anything), upper and lower degas bottle hoses, & new radiator cap at 152,000

New OEM Motorcraft fan clutch at 170,000 miles - this actually jumps out at me as the thing that “changed” most recently and might tell me something. This was the first time towing with the new fan clutch. The old one was definitely stuck on, so I’m wondering if this confirms that I have always had a cooling system issue, which has always been “offset” by the malfunctioning fan going 100% full-bore at all times, and now that the fan is actually operating per spec, the coolant system issue is rearing its head?

Thanks for any info!!!

- Danny
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-11-2014, 06:39 PM
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Tagging along. I am having very similar issues with my 01 excursion, it only goes up to the red when towing a 5k lb trailer uphill, and only once in a while. New motocraft Tstat, coolant flushed, new reservoir tank, fan clutch seems to be functioning fine (doesn't spin easily when turned off), also noticed that the upper hose one morning was flat, that was the day I replaced the Tstat and never saw it flat again. The old stat wasn't stuck when I pulled it out, either, just old and not an OEM unit.
Could this be the tranny heating up, transferring heat to the motor? Would I benefit from a 6.0 tranny cooler mod, even not knowing what the tranny temps are? Or, could I need a new water pump or radiator? 200k on the OD, trans was rebuilt by AAMCO at 150k (previous owner), doesn't lose any fluids and runs fine otherwise. No tuner, it's bone stock.
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-11-2014, 07:48 PM
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could be the water pump going out. Its very difficult to overheat a 7.3 with 8 gallons of coolant capacity.

You can always benefit from a 6.0L trans cooler. I carry OEM 31 row for $375+shipping

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post #7 of 18 Old 01-20-2015, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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I apologize for the long delay in posts!

This was solved for me by replacing the radiator. Hope this helps someone in the future!
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post #8 of 18 Old 01-20-2015, 03:54 PM
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I've personally experienced brand new t-stats that stick closed from the factory. While a bit of a hassle, I test everyone in a pot of hot/boiling water and make sure it opens properly.
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-20-2015, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe1911 View Post
I apologize for the long delay in posts!

This was solved for me by replacing the radiator. Hope this helps someone in the future!
Same here! No more overheating when I put the new radiator in. Easy job, too.
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-20-2015, 06:06 PM
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The general rule of thumb assuming full coolant and no leaks or blown head gaskets goes......

Overheating at slow speeds/low load, is lack of airflow through radiator.
This can be bad fan clutch, slipping belt, debris in radiator area, or tstat bad.

Overheating at highway speeds indicates water flow problem, since airflow is high.

Possible items are collapsed lower hose, bad tstat, clogged radiator, water pump fins corroded.

2000 F-350 Crew Cab Dually long bed, 4R100 w/PTO, Banks Stinger Plus System, Riffraff turbo wheel, bellowed ceramic coated up pipes, Ford Blue Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring, PHP Hydra, Banks Automind Prog., Trans Boost Pyro Pod Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Ford AIS Airbox, Firestone Airbags w/pump, Extended Height Cap, 55W HID projectors.
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