Motor rebuild #2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-20-2008, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Motor rebuild #2

I have an 01 7.3 that I had rebuilt last year. For some reason or another the rings never seated and I have lots of blowby. So the motor is back out for another rebuild. I bought a set of forged rods. Are there other things that I should change while I'm in there. I am also rebuilding the tranny at the same time. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-01-2008, 10:53 AM
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are you still on the stcok bore? It sounds like amybe the final finish in the cyclinder was not correct or out of round. It might be a good idea to go one size larger in pistons just to clarify your cylinders are in round after boring it out.
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-01-2008, 01:27 PM
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Blow by

My 95 is doing the same thing.
I am not looking forward to rebuilding the engine.
Are you doing this yourself or having it rebuilt?
If you do not mind How much is it costing?

May Be an Old FORD, but it Seems Like I'm the One Always Pulling Everyone Else Out.
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-01-2008, 01:49 PM
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I agree about the stock bore. No engine work should be done without machining for new parts. I just finished building on for someone that had the engine built by someone that didn't machine the block.

Since it's apart maybe opt for the comp Cams 910 valve springs.

Good choice on the rods also
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post #5 of 10 Old 03-04-2008, 08:08 PM
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Crosshatch angle

Just gonna throw this out there.. Crosshatch angle is CRITICAL!!
If the crosshatch angle is too steep, the rings can pump oil or experience excessive
rotation which will accelerate wear in the rings and piston lands. If the crosshatch
angle is too shallow, it can have a ratcheting effect as the rings pass over the
valleys, preventing the rings from receiving proper lubrication.
A proper crosshatch will also have enough valleys to retain oil, but not too much oil.
The secret here is getting the right amount of retained oil volume (Vo). If the
crosshatch scratches are too deep or there are too many valleys (not enough peaks
and bearing area), the engine will use excessive oil.
Your bore could be perfect along with rings but if crosshatch angle is wrong may cause you to dangle.. Just my experience..
Good Luck

Powerstroking
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-04-2008, 08:19 PM
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Are you turning up the power or keeping it stock?

2001 F250
11.62 @ 115.79
Owner of Marty's Diesel
Elkton, Maryland
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-04-2008, 08:44 PM
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Marty is in the same step u r bud!

-Josh

2008 2500 LMM- Deleted, Blocked, Fueled, & Tuned by:
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-07-2008, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Update on this. I had this motor rebuilt last year. It had broke a piston at the wrist pin. New block was bored .20 over. The guy who built it also builds NHRA motors and is a friend. My brother-in-law's shop is the one that pulled it and replaced it. From the start there was a small vibration, then we noticed the blowby. I had put a Garrett BB turbo and some Stage II injectors while we were in there figuring the truck was paid for and could make this one last several more years for a lot less money than a new one even with adding the extras. The motor builder thought that the rings just needed some time to seat and told me to drive it.Well, they never seated. The builder just tore the motor back down and found that the rings had eaten out the cylinder walls. He is now saying that he thinks this is due to my aftermarket turbo and injectors and said that more end gap should have been put in the rings for this. I think he is full of it and is just trying to get out of paying for something that he didn't do right the first time. I've never heard of having to adjust ring gap for a larger turbo and injectors. Sorry for the long post.

01 LWB CC SRW 4x4 7.3 auto
Stage II's,HPX, In tank and pre-pump mods,regulated return
AFE stage II,Garrett BB Turbo,4" turbo back, ITP overboost annihilator, 10 pos. DP Tuner,
Motor and tranny rebuilt. forged rods,Mahle pistons, all balanced, new valves,Comp 910's,C/M P-rods,ARP Studs , homemade AIH delete kit, twin TRU-Cool tranny coolers,Ride-Rite air bags B-D X-Monitor
Don't worry about the Mule, just load the wagon.
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-07-2008, 01:18 PM
Let's go B's!!!!

 
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Sound slike he's full of it to me.
HMM sure are a lot of 7.3 rebuilds here lately.....

How bout headstuds while you're in there?

Chris

2002 Crew Cab Long Bed
4" BDS, 35x13.50 Cooper STT on 20x10 Black Rockstars, and other stuff.....310,000 miles and counting...
<><
2 Thessalonians 3 v.6-15

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post #10 of 10 Old 03-07-2008, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Just waiting to see if the shop's insurance says. If they are paying for a new short block, I think I'll buy one from Diesel Innovations. If that happens, I'll put in headstuds,pushrods and springs. It should be bullet proof then.

01 LWB CC SRW 4x4 7.3 auto
Stage II's,HPX, In tank and pre-pump mods,regulated return
AFE stage II,Garrett BB Turbo,4" turbo back, ITP overboost annihilator, 10 pos. DP Tuner,
Motor and tranny rebuilt. forged rods,Mahle pistons, all balanced, new valves,Comp 910's,C/M P-rods,ARP Studs , homemade AIH delete kit, twin TRU-Cool tranny coolers,Ride-Rite air bags B-D X-Monitor
Don't worry about the Mule, just load the wagon.
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