replacing oil pan/gasket - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-17-2013, 03:59 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 131
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
replacing oil pan/gasket

Trucks been leaking at the pan right in the corner by the starter. Cleaned it up, removed inspection plate, made sure the truck was hot/running and finally confirmed its coming from the oil pan gasket and not the rear main.

Since im doing the crossmember cut/weld due to costs/downtime what else should i replace while under there? Im getting a new pan from Ford, gasket maker, dipstick tube, dipstick flange unless the pan comes with one already. Also going to cover the new pan in some type of corrosion resistant paint etc while its out..

Thanks

Jason
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 04-18-2013, 11:09 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,616
Thanks: 0
Thanked 62 Times in 58 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Do you already have the Bloody Apron you'll be wearing or, do you have to go get one First?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 04-18-2013, 01:45 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 131
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
Do you already have the Bloody Apron you'll be wearing or, do you have to go get one First?
i dont follow?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 04-18-2013, 03:40 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,616
Thanks: 0
Thanked 62 Times in 58 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Only a BUTCHER would cut out the crossmember....

You know the reason Ford has you pull the motor is so you get a proper reseal of the pan. The oil that runs-down the inside walls, when the engine is Not inverted as it's supposed to be, will contaminate the gasket sealer
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 04-18-2013, 04:12 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 737
Thanks: 3
Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
Only a BUTCHER would cut out the crossmember....

You know the reason Ford has you pull the motor is so you get a proper reseal of the pan. The oil that runs-down the inside walls, when the engine is Not inverted as it's supposed to be, will contaminate the gasket sealer
i agree you only will be wasting your time and money you will never get a correct seal and will probly leak a lot more the way you are planning on doing it
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 04-19-2013, 06:16 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,616
Thanks: 0
Thanked 62 Times in 58 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
PLUS, the cross member will never go back "right". From a Geometry aspect, metallurgical, corrosion, strength, it will Always be a Butchered Truck.

How will the top side ever be rewelded right with the motor in place? You can't get a Mig gun in there, a Tig torch, only thing I could think would be a "blob-job" with Stick welding...

What an "F"ed-Up thing to do
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 04-19-2013, 06:45 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Westmoreland,Tn
Posts: 1,989
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
You will have to let it drip dry for at least a week to avoid contaminating it and getting a good clean dry seal , that part I agree with. The cross member howerver, another guy on here did just that and has had no issues. He welded up some nice gussets and actually bolted the cross member back together incase he ever had to pull it out again. Wish I could find that thread now.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 04-19-2013, 10:46 AM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 279
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
I have installed the oil pan with motor in the truck on a international 4700 series truck before. I dont think you will have a problem there. Just make sure to put a good 1/4" bead on the pan gasket and let it sit over night before you start the truck.

Cutting the crossmember dousnt sound to good, but if you have a shop with some good welding / cutting tools I am sure you will be able to reinstall the member good enough. my 2 cents
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 04-19-2013, 01:08 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,616
Thanks: 0
Thanked 62 Times in 58 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinlogue5_0 View Post
The cross member however, another guy on here did just that and has had no issues. He welded up some nice gussets and actually bolted the cross member back together in case he ever had to pull it out again. Wish I could find that thread now.
Didn't say it couldn't be done,,, just that it couldn't be done right

If you went to buy a truck, slid under and saw that, would you go through with it? I mean, and I'm telling you this, it's screwed-up the frame geometry. It just has to, all that weight still in place and Something is gonna shift. Once welded, in it's new position, you're stuck like that.

Any WHY???? How much time could actually be saved? (this isn't an easy thing to Do & UnDo). How LAZY can you get with something this important? You've made it weaker, it's gonna start to corrode inside, all to save a couple of hours work? Anyone would have to ask - If he's willing to "rig" THIS, what other shortcuts can't I see????

It's a foolish move....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 04-19-2013, 03:42 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 131
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
i work at a marina and have a full shop/tools/220v mig to work with.

I agree 100% it is not the correct way to go about it, however i don't believe it can be considered a "butcher job" without seeing the finished job.

After reading a few threads about the subject, i too agree the crossmember provides little support if any to the vehicle. It does have a huge hole in it to begin with and that is right where i'd be cutting, just enough to clear the oil pan.

I am also more than confident in my welding abilities to make this thing stronger then it was when im finished. I do plan on adding addition 1/4" plate to support it, not just butt welding the joints where i am cutting.

From my experience, the more you take apart the more chances you end up messing up something else and i cannot afford the down time this is my daily commuter/work truck. I would be fine with pulling the motor if I had a week off from work, but my only window of opportunity is possibly a saturday and sunday.

I do plan on letting the oil drain for awhile and being very thorough with getting a proper seal, but i think some people on here tend to make a bigger deal about that than it really is. When you service your differentials with Permatex Ultra Black you can add oil withing 20 minutes of setting the cover and be absolutely fine. However i do plan on letting it set longer only because of the amount of work involved.

Also im keeping this truck for quite sometime, hence the reason trying to get this solved ASAP. I would never sell it to someone without letting them know the work i've done to it, i would never want to see someone get hurt.

Jason
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors