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Old 04-06-2013, 07:14 PM
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Starting issue even in warm weather

I am working on my brothers truck and was wondering what everyone's thoughts were.

It is a 01 with about 290k on it, not sure of the mileage on injectors but dont think they are the original ones. He has been having issues with starting it and all winter he just used ether to get it started every morning or just drove his other truck. Now that it is finally getting warm he is looking into it and replaced the GP, relay and UVCH but the starting problem still exists. After it sits for about 8 hours it can take up to 10 minutes of cranking to get it started When cranking there is some black smoke coming out of the exhaust and once it does start it and let it run it will start right back up with no problems.

I hooked up my AE and was monitoring the ICP ect during cranking and it actually would get up to around 1700 while cranking at times.
KOEO came up with an idm code for all 8 injectors, cleared and it didnt come back.
CCT and first time 5 and 7 failed then 5,7 and 8
Buzz 1,2,3,4 sound about the same, 5,6,7 are about half as loud as 1 and 8 is about twice as loud as 1, truck had been running about 10 minutes so not at full operating temp.

Not sure if it is related but anytime you push at all on the accelerator the SES light comes on, even if you are idling and push on it and when driving with cruise each time the truck accelerates it comes on but then goes right off. The only other codes that came up were from ebpv sensor and i think he has it unplugged on the pedestal. I am thinking since 5,7 both fail the cct to do a compression test and see if it is injector or other issue since i dont know if its the heat building up that finally lets it start or an issue with the hpop or fuel leaking down but assume hpop is good since it builds so quickly.


I was back to finish up my truck this weekend and looked at his a little and ran some more test.

If he plugs it in it will start right up, the temps have been in the 60s here.


Trouble Codes
P1280 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory
P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected
P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low

KOEO
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor

KOER
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance
P0542 and P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit high/low

CCT
P0284 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low

KOER Switch
P1536 Parking Brake Switch Circuit
P0220 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch B Circuit
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0571 Cruise Control / Brake Switch A Circuit
P0703 Torque Convertor / Brake Switch B Circuit
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low

After running it doing all the KOER test the check engine light came back on and these codes were back after being cleared earlier

P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected
P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low

So I ran Buzz test again and got the below codes, both 2 and 4 sound good on buzz test

P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor
P1272 Cylinder #2 High To Low Side Open
P1274 Cylinder #4 High To Low Side

Under idle there is a SES but if you idle up to about 1500 and hold it there it goes away and as soon as it comes back to idle it comes on.

I am wondering if it isnt the IDM since last weekend 5 and 7 failed the CCT twice in a row and this week only 8 does but it has the gray CPS installed.

Didnt get a chance to do a compression test since we were using it all day but did notice it gets harder to start the longer it sits even if the engine is still warm. It sat outside in 70 degrees for about 3 hours and it took a good 30-45 seconds of cranking to get it started. Once it starts after sitting for a while the throttle is not that responsive it takes a little bit of time before it is normal throttle response almost like the fuel or oil rails were draining and had air in them, but since it starts once its plugged in I dont think that would be the problem and am still leaning towards injectors anyone got any other ideas?
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:16 AM
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You've already replaced the both UVCH gaskets?

I'd be suspecting the IDM too, they're prone to getting water in them and being "flukey"..

Last edited by NoRalPh; 04-07-2013 at 07:20 AM.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:55 PM
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Both UVCH are a week old, I pulled the IDM our of his parts truck and he is going to try that as well as make sure the 42 pin connector hasn't rubbed through on the valve cover.

I am still thinking there must be injector problems as well, or would an idm cause the long starts, seems like it wouldn't allow it to start regardless of how long you cranked or do you think that would be it hopefully since it rained he can get it changed out today and test tomorrow morning.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:48 PM
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He got some time to work on it last weekend and do a compression test. The results are #8 is at 210 one of them was around 400 and the rest were right around 350 on a cold engine.

The truck the injectors were originally bought for a couple years back had the same low compression issue so they parted it out, this is the 3rd truck these injectors have been in and all have had starting problems so I am thinking these might not be any good either. Too bad he didnt tell me earlier I just had Rosewood's build me a set and my truck started fine so I could have just swapped injectors to eliminate that problem.

The truck still acts the same and will start right off when plugged in and the weather has been in the mid 40s. He is taking back to the shop that changed the injectors for them to look at it some more, should he do a leak down test to see where the problem is with #8 and then go from there?

How bad is the one dead cylinder going to affect starting? Since its a farm truck with 300k and is pretty rough it would be hard to justify putting alot of money in it.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:12 AM
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bump anyone
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:47 AM
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Could the LPOP or IPR be causing the hard start issues, I wouldnt think IPR since there is not a hot start problem.

Last edited by cory99; 04-17-2013 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:34 PM
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If I were you I would look in the HPOP res. (before starting it) to see that the oil isn't draining back into the pan. There is a check valve that is in the block on the drivers right behind the front cover. Its not under the front cover so it can be serviced without pulling the front cover. You will see it is a pipe plug and below that is a spring and a steel ball. If the engine wasn't taken care of then sludge can build up there and cause the ball not to seal on the seat. When this happens the HPOP res. drains back into the pan. When this happens you have to crank the engine over until the HPOP res. fills again.
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