![]() |
Please Visit our Site Sponsors
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Need Glow plug help Not sure where to post
Hi all, it is another cold start issue and I really need some help! Please move this post if needed.
So here is the run down. I have a 2002 E350 van with a 7.3 with 85,000 miles. I have only had it a couple months. I have only driven it home and parked it, about 90 miles. I live at 3000 feet in the Sierra and it has been getting down in the twenties. It runs fine. It will start after about 10 seconds of cranking, and only if the batteries are freshly charged. It won’t crank for more than 10 seconds without slowing down. Pretty sure this is California equipped. Batteries are new and charged, all terminals and grounds cleaned. Starter is about a year old No power (and no click) from the output side of the GPR with KOEO. I replaced the GPR and same thing. There is power at the input (big wire) of the GPR. There is also power at the small terminal (small red wire) with KOEO. Here is the weird thing, the other small terminal (purple wire) is grounded with key off, with key on, when it should complete the circuit and trigger the GPR, it is no longer grounded! So I put a jumper wire on the small terminal (ground side) of the GPR and grounded it out (for less than a minute). When I did this with the KOEO the GPR clicked and the output terminal had power. So I am thinking there is a problem with the Glow Plug Controller? It did start when I did this, a little faster I think, but is warmer today 45-50. A side note, after doing this and starting it the check engine light is staying on. I think my glow plugs are bad also but I am not sure. I pulled the connector on the passenger side and did the OMH check. All 4 zeroed out. I tested them 3 times to make sure, and I think I am doing it right. Didn’t check the other side yet because I wanted to get some advice, and remember this is a van! No room to work, can’t see what you are doing and you have to take lots of stuff off to get to anything. All 4 bad, is that likely? If the glow plugs have not been getting power for a while can that make them go bad? Will they carbon up and have infinite resistance? Can they come back to life if they start getting power? Am I on the right track with the glow plug controller? Should I take it in and have them run the codes? Soooo……Help……Please. Thanks Tom |
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
|
|||
|
Not sure, but I will bump this up for ya.
to the ORG and I will move it for ya as well. Good luck with it.
|
|
|||
|
Welcome to the org. My 01 was having some of the same symptoms but not at the gpr or gp controller. My issue was under the valve cover . The harness had started backing out on both sides of the motor and when I ohm out the harness before removing the valve cover I was getting some weird readings. Once I fixed the harness with a retaining clip that I bought at the dealership everything was ok. So I hope this helps you a little.
|
|
|||
|
I replied to your PM but here it is for the help of others.
If your truck was sold in CA new, it doesn't have a GPR, it has a GP controller, this is a long rectangular aluminum finned unit that sits on top of the drivers side VC IIRC. If it is a CA Van you are messing with the air intake heater and not the GPR. So first you need to figure out if this is a CA van or not. Second these engines need to see so many rpms before they will crank. If your batteries are slowing things down after 10 sec they are weak or not the right size, one of the two. Second, yes it is possible all 4 GP's are bad, you need to OHM test the other side, but make sure you are making good contact in the pin and the neg probe should be on the battery. If the GP system is working properly the van should fire up fine down to 20 below. Check out the above and get back to me. NCH |
|
|||
|
Thank you for your quick response!
I will check it out and get back yo you.
Thank you. Tom |
|
|||
|
The starter could be going bad also if it is slowing down after 10 seconds or so. It does not mean that the batteries are bad. It just means that you need to have them checked out.
|
|
|||
|
What to do now?
First of all thank you for you help and you time!
OK Here is what I am working with. It is definitely a CA version. It has the small aluminum box you speak of. I thought that was what controlled the relay. I feel pretty silly now having spent a lot of time testing what I thought was a GPR. I tested the other bank of glow plugs with the Ohm meter. Black probe to the battery, red probe to the terminal pins. All four of those zeroed out as well. So all 8 glow plugs test bad? Is there a way to test the controller? What should I do next, replace the glow plugs? Do you have a recommendation as to which brand? Thank you. Tom |
|
|||
|
Something is wrong. I seriously doubt that all 8 would test infinate resistance.
|
|
|||
|
I agree somthing not right.
Well thats what I thought also, somethings not right. Well at least for myself I have learned to start with me. So sure enough I think it's a good old case of operator error here.
I had the range way up on the meter. When I put it down to the 200 range I got readings in the .7-.9 range on all eight! Thats what we want right? So now what? It is still hard to start when cold. It won't crank long with out slowing down. How do I know if the GP are actually heating? Thanks to you all, and to trial and error at least I am learning about my new rig. Tom |
|
|||
|
OK that's one more thing we can eliminate. I have only heard of two of the GP controllers going bad and they aren't cheap!! I would be looking at the batteries or starter, more the batteries. Have somebody crank her over while you check the volts on the battery, if they are dropping below 11 volts you have a weak battery, or batteries. Just because they are new means nothing!! As I told you before they will probably test fine on the auto stores machine, but they still don't have enough power to fire our truck, so either drain the batteries all the way down before you take them in or simply explain to the guy what is going on. You can test the GP controller by going key on and checking output power, but as I said I doubt this is your problem. Are you sure the right sized batteries were replaced? Check the batteries and let me know.
NCH |
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|