Truck will not start unless block heater plugged in, then very hard.
what has been done so far glow plug system operating, replaced 2 glow plugs.
UVCG changed, new style no plug under valve covers.
IDM replaced short in under cover gasket.
I have the auto enginuity scanner, injection oil pressure builds very slow.
when running blows white smoke, rough idle injection oil pressure surges from 300 psi up 2800 psi very unstable.
Plan to change oil in hpop reservoir tomorrow.
suspecting injector o-rings as well, maybe mat sensor as well?:dunno:
I removed the oil from HPOP with a hand vacuum pump pretty nasty. then figured i would drain the water valve on fuel bowl. The mix that came out was about 70% motor oil. o-rings for the injectors and fuel bowl are on the way.
I found the o-ring failed in #1 and #5 injectors, have not finished putting back together due to a hurt shoulder. This will hopefully solve the slow build up of high pressure oil issue. A lot of the other injectors orings were looking a little rough.
1. No start - a little smoke.
2. no start- unplugged mat sensor
3. no start but closer unplugged icp sensor.
with ae scanner it is building injection pressure faster. no motor related codes.
Clarify few things after changing o-rings, pulled glow plugs, cranked over to clear cylinders. check all fluids levels, filled hpop resevior seperately., used fuel pump to circulate fuel in fuel bowl, clean out. Added HPO crossover line.
When I changed injectors in mine I had a hard time getting it started too. I believe it was due to air in the fuel galleys in the heads. Try bleeding the fuel system and see if that helps.
It can take a while for the engine to start after replacing the injectors. You have to remember that the air has to be purged from both the fuel rails and the oil rails. What is the high pressure oil pressure when your cranking? Also, what is the duty cycle reading? You might want to double check that you plugged everything in and that all connections are solid. I dont know if you capable of doing so with your scanner but buzz the injectors before removing the valve covers to make sure they are working. If not then remover the covers and check your connections. I hoped you un hooked the batteries before working on the vehcile, it is pretty easy to cause a short and destroy your IDM or PCM. Just saying.
After reading some other threads and checking out every connection, 4 times.
I used the battery charger set to starter assist( as i had been using all along), and used jumper cables a to running truck. Suspected low voltage issue?
And presto! :thumb: it cranked and ran.
ran diagnostics on AE, contribution, KOER,ETC.
results injector #8 shows issues
#3 high /low open
The issues of no start / hard start when cold are resolved. No block heater needed.
Will start with out waiting to start.
As far as injectors i plan to try the seafoam in HPOP system, and massive amount additive to full system. It worked on another thread figure why not?
I am guessing most of the injector issues are due to poor maintenance, and age.
In conclusion if I had it to due over again I would have done these things first, replace UVCH, glow plugs, and o-rings on injectors at the same time.
Instead I cheaped out and thought ok shorted UVCH - problem solved, next it was glow plugs- replaced 2, tear down to re-check, then it was idm replacement wiped out by short, and finally o-ring replacement on all 8 injectors.
I currently have one extra good injector and have a buddy i am about to get another from, if the issues with the #3 & #8 injectors get worse.
:woot:
Sorry about delay post got my medical release to go back to work.
If you have the grey CPS, then no need to worry about the 3/8 failing cct test. (quite normal, google it).
Save the $$ on all that oil additive and buy T-6 Rotella. Ur truck will thank you.
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