![]() |
Please Visit our Site Sponsors
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
No start after HPOP fix
Before anyone pounces on me for not using the search function, I have and could not find anything to really help wit my situation
Here is the background 99 7.3 PSD 4x4 Auto with about 224,000mi Noticed an oil puddle on the driveway and thought since oil was just changed a few days prior it was related. Took it back in and they inspected and said oil was running down block on back. Drove it to the mechanic and he said HPOP leaking and $1200 for new pump and labor. After researching oil leak I found I could rebuild/ replace the nonserviceable plug with a little time and a fraction of the money. Bought the parts, pulled the pump and got it all put back together and no start. So I get to thinking that even though I did not see the little ball under the rod on the NSP fall out I was not 100% sure it was in there either. So back apart and verified ball in place. Put it all back together and still will not start. I have cranked on it a lot off and on today, checking oil reservoir level in between and adding when needed. I jumped online and did some more looking and tried again with ICP unplugged and still nothing. The truck was running fine before I pulled the HPOP, I have checked and rechecked that all of the connectors I unplugged are plugged in good and locked. Unfortunately I do not have a way of testing pressure on injectors, coming off of HPOP etc This is just a last attempt before I concede defeat and load it up and take it to the shop. Thanks for any help or suggestions you may have |
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
|
|||
|
all you did was mess with the hpop. Problem lyes there. Check oil level and IPR.
|
|
|||
|
Went out after church to try it again. After cranking on it several times yesterday it was maintaining oil level in the reservoir but I checked level first and it was way down, took 1/2 qt to get it back up where it had been.
I found how to test IPR and dad is an electrician so he is bringing ohm meter over in a bit to check that |
|
|||
|
Here is the latest
Took it to a mechanic, he said pump not putting anything out. Check ball and edge filter are in place. Could I have done something else wrong to prevent pump from working? Also the reservoir level will not maintain if it is just sitting. Other than a recent oil change there was nothing done to it prior to removing pump and it was running fine, just leaking oil out of the pump at the non serviceable plug |
|
|||
|
Mechanic said IPR showing 65% on scanner and that oil level was now maintaining in reservoir. I don't think the pump would just quit but that is what it looks like
|
|
|||
|
hmm. and you're absolutely sure that the check ball is in the exact same location as it was when the plug was pulled? as i recall, that's the reason the plug is non serviceable. because the check ball loses position. something like that. i replaced this o ring once before. everything went well. but yes, i do recall reading that it was non serviceable for that reason as well.
so what is icp reading while cranking? |
|
|||
|
the reason for the "non-serviceable" plug, is simple that the check ball can fall out. When it does, it can cause grief. If you serviced the pump, with it standing on its input end, you won't have any problems there.
Next thing, ipr is reading 65%. Did you put the ipr solenoid on the right way. I know that is an ignorant question, but, there is the solenoid, spacer, and tin hex nut. It goes on in that manner, solenoid on first, then spacer, then hex nut. I have had one come to me with a no start after rebuild, and that is exactly what I found. Simple, yet a real mind bender. You want to see high ICP when cranking, and during initial fire, then it will drop off to idle values. I have seen these across the board on idle, from 500 - 700 psi. No start will be attempted until min 750 is reached, if I remember right. It has been a while since I last worked on one of these, something else to check, is that you got the drive gear bolt tight on the input shaft of the HPOP. this will definitely cause a no start. Report back on what you find. |
|
|||
|
Double check that the gear bolt on the front is tight. I have been fooled into thinking I had it tight when it was actually spinning.
|
|
|||
|
i think i know what happened. drive gear was probably not centered when you reinstalled. it's a fairly common mistake. pop that cover off, pull the bolt out and make sure the gear is centered on the shaft. torque spec for the nut is 96ft/lbs. usually you'll get 96 before the gear starts to turn and won't need to have some someone hold the crank stationary.
you want to place that gear on nice and centered by hand. then, use a mirror to make sure the gap is all even. hopefully the pump wasn't damaged.. |
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|