2000 no start when cold

[alberta 7.3]

Okay, my 2000 F350 has me at my wits end.
rebuilt engine (deglaze, new rings, bearings and seals)
new HPOP
new CPS
new IPC sensor
glow plug system functioning (good plugs/relay, draws about 175A on activation)
new fuel pressure regulator
new fuel filter
tested fuel pump at pump outlet, pegs a 100psi gauge
fuel lines clear
full tank of fresh fuel
HPOP res full
IPR solenoid replaced by previous owner.

The truck fired fine at my buddy's shop (room temp) now that it is at home outside at 20F, it won't start, the tach bounces during cranking, batteries are good. Yesterday, after 20 min of cranking, the truck finally started. When running, there are no DTC's

truck is bone stock with no mods.

If I don't get this thing figured out soon I'll be comminted to a padded cell!!!

[gonestrokn]

What kind of fuel additive are you using? I had cold start issues, wouldn't start cold, plug it in it would start, 8 new glow plugs sensors relay fuel pump ect ect and more, still no start cold. I was using Power Service fuel additive and still no start. Started using a fuel additive called Howe's Lubrication and it starts right up every time. It was 12 degrees F. last night, started right up. You could need some additive in the fuel. Howe's Lubrication worked for me. Just a thought.

[alberta 7.3]

Added Stanadyne Performance additive (same as my 96.) Fuel is transparent (no wax) and flows like water. Tomorrow I will go to a local jack-of-all-trades store and get some fittings and a hydraulic gauge, and see if HPOP is working, or if the IPR has stuck or failed. Once I know if HPOP passes, I will check if the IDM relay coil is getting the 0V from the PCM with HPOP pressure, and see if the IDM is getting juice.

[strokin_early_99]

Have you tested the other side of the glow plug relay to see if the power is getting to the other side?

I had this happen last tuesday. The relay would click and I got amperage draw from the batter to the relay but the other side of the relay had no power. It was shorting out internally. Just a thought.

[mjsegura]

Originally Posted by gonestrokn

What kind of fuel additive are you using? I had cold start issues, wouldn't start cold, plug it in it would start, 8 new glow plugs sensors relay fuel pump ect ect and more, still no start cold. I was using Power Service fuel additive and still no start. Started using a fuel additive called Howe's Lubrication and it starts right up every time. It was 12 degrees F. last night, started right up. You could need some additive in the fuel. Howe's Lubrication worked for me. Just a thought.

THIS MIGHT HELP,I OWN A 96 POWERSTROKE, HAD THE EXACT PROBLEM. NO START COLD DAYS AT 50 AND BELOW, ALSO AT WITTS END. THEN ONE I DAY I NOTICED DIESEL FUEL LEAKING FROM THE ENGINE AREA. I ALWAYS SMELLED THE FUEL BUT IGNORED IT. IT GOT WORSE OF COURSE. I DID THREE THINGS TO IT AND KILLED TWO BIRS WITH ONW STONE. I REPLACED THE THREE SHORT PRESSURE FUEL LINES FROM THE FILTER TO THE FUEL PUMP,(2) I TIGHTENED THE BIG BOLT ON THE BACK OF THE FUEL PUMP WHERE THE TWO METAL FUEL LINES GO INTO IT. (3) AND FINALLY I REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER GASKET WHICH WAS ROUND AND OVAL TO ROUND AND SQUARE. AFTER THAT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY MORE PROBLEMS STARTING IT IN COLD WEATHER. IT TURNED OUT TO BE A FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEM AFTER ALL. TRY IT ! IT WORKED FOR ME.

[alberta 7.3]

Originally Posted by mjsegura

THIS MIGHT HELP,I OWN A 96 POWERSTROKE, HAD THE EXACT PROBLEM. NO START COLD DAYS AT 50 AND BELOW, ALSO AT WITTS END. THEN ONE I DAY I NOTICED DIESEL FUEL LEAKING FROM THE ENGINE AREA. I ALWAYS SMELLED THE FUEL BUT IGNORED IT. IT GOT WORSE OF COURSE. I DID THREE THINGS TO IT AND KILLED TWO BIRS WITH ONW STONE. I REPLACED THE THREE SHORT PRESSURE FUEL LINES FROM THE FILTER TO THE FUEL PUMP,(2) I TIGHTENED THE BIG BOLT ON THE BACK OF THE FUEL PUMP WHERE THE TWO METAL FUEL LINES GO INTO IT. (3) AND FINALLY I REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER GASKET WHICH WAS ROUND AND OVAL TO ROUND AND SQUARE. AFTER THAT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY MORE PROBLEMS STARTING IT IN COLD WEATHER. IT TURNED OUT TO BE A FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEM AFTER ALL. TRY IT ! IT WORKED FOR ME.

fuel pressure is good, been all over this engine like a cheap suit, and haven't found a drop of anything (except when I loosened the filter cover and diesel sprayed all over the place, which I soaked up with some rags)

Originally Posted by strokin_early_99

Have you tested the other side of the glow plug relay to see if the power is getting to the other side?

I had this happen last tuesday. The relay would click and I got amperage draw from the batter to the relay but the other side of the relay had no power. It was shorting out internally. Just a thought.

sure have, getting 11.4V on glow plug side of relay, my fluke meter has a DC amp function, clamped 'er around the wire and was drawing around 175A

[NCHornet]

If you have OHM'd the GP's and they are good, I would say change the oil to a lighter weight oil for winter use, makes a big difference in cold weather. Also batteries that have cranked a PSD for 20 min aren't "Fine" they are about dead!! Batteries have to be 100% to turn these trucks over fast enough to fire. I would change the oil and recharge the batteries. I would also go to the Stancor relay, my truck has never started so well since I installed it.

[alberta 7.3]

UPDATE:
double checked GPR, OK
tested IPR getting 3.8V at crank
checked both heads, HPOP oil gets to 3000psi after about 5-10 seconds cranking
recharged batteries last night, when test cranking today to read oil pressures, had the 96 in charge protect on idle control with 1/0 booster cables.
checked PCM/IDM fuses/relays, OK
checked for power/ground at IDM connector, good at 12.6V (damn that IDM is hard to get at on a SD)
pulled out the IDM, will let it sit in the house overnight to warm up, if there is a cold fault in the IDM
Would the IDM-100 with the IDM MOD from my 96 work in the 2000? It would be the fast way to rule out the IDM.

[mjsegura]

MY FRIEND HAD THE SAME PROBLEM HE USE TO HAVE TO USE ETHER PRIOR TO STARTING IT . THEN ONE DAY HE ENDED UP BUYING NEW BATTERIES WITH EXTRA COLD CRANKING AMPS AND A NEW BATTERY TO BATTERY TO STARTER HARNESS CAUSE THE OLD ONE WAS CORRODED INTERNALLY. IT COST HIM 400.00 AND THAT WORKED FOR HIM. THERE ARE ALSO NEW ALARMS FOR DIESELS WITH REMOTES THAT WILL START YOUR ENGINE EVERY TWO HOURS TO KEEP IT WARMED UP INSTEAD OF KEEPING IT PLUGGED TO ELEC ALL NIGHT

[alberta 7.3]

well, today was about 35F out, swapped IDM from 96, and it fired up, put the IDM-120 back in, and the truck fired up as well. Got a P1670 FE feedback error code. tried tightening up the PCM connector bolt, was 1.5-2 turns loose. Will try testing the truck again tomorrow, supposed to be in the 5-15F temps, so we can continue. Does anyone think this could be a case of the PCM starting to fail?