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Old 02-07-2013, 01:33 PM
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Truck Starting Issue

Ok guys here's everything I have replaced on the truck all new glowplugs new GP relay (stancore) new UVCH gaskets and wiring. Two new batteries new starter. Also had the injectors out and cleaned and flow tested. The truck still will not start unless it's plugged in or pull started. What's my issue? Where do I look next? Could it be the HPOP? or is it Compression ? Starts fine onces its warm and has been running but wont start 24 hours later and this is in the summer time or winter Glow plug system is working fine am also getting an amount of white smoke out the exhaust while starting when not plugged in. The oil in the HPOP resivor is at the correct level have checked it on multiple occasions. There is also oil in the ICP sensor but does not make a difference in starting with it plugged in or unplugged.

The truck is now getting harder and harder to start even if leaving it plugged in over night.

Took some ICP readings this weekend with the truck in the stock position.

Starting where truck wont start is 2000 PSI.

Start up 700 PSI with a duty cycle of 30% (This is with the truck actually able to start)

2000 RPM had a reading of 2200 PSI with a duty cycle of 35%

2400 RPM had a reading of 2260 PSI with a duty cycle of 19%

2500 RPM had a reading of 2400 PSI with a duty cycle of 18%

3000 RPM had a reading of 2655 PSI with a duty cycle of 45%


Someone please help me figure out what's wrong with this truck !!!

Thanks

Evan
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:15 AM
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TTT someone help me figure this out! I need ideas please!!!!
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:28 AM
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have you checked for codes? also, what have you done to confirm the GP's are working?
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:59 PM
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No codes. GP's are all new and I've ohmed all and they are correct.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:25 PM
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resistance testing is terrible for anything beyond finding an open circuit.
you want to amp test the GP system. that is, amp clamp around either of the 2 large terminals on the relay, and cycle the key on. should see around 160-180amps on a cold engine

if you're getting smoke, you're getting fuel. and if you're getting fuel, your icp should be high enough to fire.
process of elimination would point towards either glow plug system or injector(s)
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:35 AM
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Is that to just test amps of GPR? or each GP themselves? I have a hard time believing they are the problem. GPR is a stancor recently new and all GP were replaced within a year all motocraft. Before reinstalling the glow plugs I used an old UVCH gasket and plugged in old glow plugs to it grounded it to the motor and turned the key on glow plugs glowed red hot after about a minute.
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:50 PM
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TTT I need help still!!
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:12 PM
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The last one I fixed had 2 problems and a comedy of errors. The first shop ohm the glow plugs and found several bad, so they replaced all the glow plugs. Still would not start, so they started trying ether it would try but no start.

Towed it to my place, first thing was check glow plugs, found 4 of the recently installed glow plugs bad due to ether. ( if your going to use a starting fluid disconnect glow plug relay) replaced glow plugs and it got real close to starting, had smoke but still wouldn't start. Checked fuel pressure, it would climb to about 10 psi and quit.

New fuel pump, 60 psi and it started. Road checked and it ran great but set a CEL for 2 injectors, engine performance was too good, swapped ICM with a known good ICM CEL was gone. That was .....month ago. Truck is running great.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:05 AM
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I'm having a similar issue. It's a ***** to start when the oil in the low 50's or below. Starts fine otherwise. I'll even leave key on/engine off for a couple minutes before I try, and it still hates me. I'm running 15W40 still, though I've heard 5W40 is a better winter oil. You say it's a summer and winter problem for you, but that means nothing, as you could be in Canada for all I know. Oil temperature plays a pretty big role I've learned. My truck runs like a champ other than that first start if it's been unplugged.

If it's plugged in, she always starts quick and easy, as the oil is between 88 and 110*. Even after she fires up cold, she idles rough for close to a minute before smoothing out and acting nice. I haven't ran any tests, as I don't have a good scanner. I assumed GP system, then leaned towards injectors (166K on factory nozzles), now I'm thinking it's just the oil. I'm pushing 310hp, 647tq on PHP dyno with PHP 45hp economy tune, so I know the engine is healthy overall. Heck, I can't hook up on a boosted launch.

The point being, if the oil is cold, it flows for crud, and it needs to flow nice for the HPOP to efficiently run the injectors. I blow enough smoke to make a pot head jealous during a cold start, she just doesn't want to start in a nice manner. It takes a few tries, and even kicks a couple times. Next winter I'll try 5W40, but until then I'm just playing the plug in game. I park at the house over night, so it's not a big issue for me.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:14 AM
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I'll go back through and retest all GP & GPR just to verify they are all working correctly. I get a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust on a start up but will have to check my fuel pressure anyways cheap check. I live in Oklahoma by the way and the truck needs to be plugged in when its 80-100 degrees in the summer. Im still at a loss on this truck it looks like its time to do a compression test.... Keep the ideas coming!
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