Question for AE Scan Tool Users

[RopinandRidin]

I was already leaning toward my no-start problem being a burned out pcm (again) but went ahead and bought the AE program, to make sure. I loaded the software and hooked up to the dlc. Turned key on, waited 10 seconds, opened the AE program and a box pops up to start a 4 step connection. I get the first one checked off and up pops another box where I select my vehicle. I fill that out and hit the 'OK' button and after a second or two, up pop's a box that says “Communications could not be established with the controller. Check the connection or validate the vehicle has support for the controller.”

In addition to that message, when I look at the lights on the connector that is plugged into the dlc, I've got red and amber lights but the green one doesn't come on.

I've checked the relays and fuses concerning the pcm and they're good. Is there some other info I have to put into the program before it will start for the first time or is this confirmation that my pcm is dust?

[NoRalPh]

Ahhh not just yet

First - do you get a WTS light?

Also in the AE configuration, under "Vehicle Interface Type" there might be a place to set it from OBD-II to "J1850PWM" for a 7.3L. Try that...

[RopinandRidin]

This truck hasn't had a working WTS light since I got it a couple of years ago so I can't see if there is a change. I did find that my setting under "Interface Type" was set to "auto detect" so I'll change it and go give it a shot. Do I keep the "Initialization Type" set to "OBD-II Compliant"?

[NoRalPh]

No, our trucks are Not, strictly, OBD-II but rather a variant of that called J1850PWM (the reason the Generic scanners have trouble with our engines).

When cold, can you test that the GPR is activating? (that's what the WTS light would be telling you, that the PCM is active, and if it IS turning On the GPs then it's Not "dead")

[RopinandRidin]

OK, I set the "Interface" type as J1850PWM but what should the "Initialization" type be set at? I have power to the gpr but when I turn the key on, I don't get power to the other side and when I tried jumping the terminals, It made no difference.

[NoRalPh]

Initialization type is really Non-OBDII, as I said we're NOT

I'm not sure which of the terminals you "jumped" but what the PCM is supposed to do, if it's running and this is why the WTS is a good test, is to supply a path-to-Ground on one of the sm terms (the other sm term has + in it with the key on). So, if the PCM is dead, it won't be supplying that ground. Maybe you could remove the sm wires and confirm the PCM isn't doing that as a test of it's running or not...

[RopinandRidin]

I just tried all initiation types and still get the same result. In the OBS trucks we used to be able to jump one big terminal to the other to complete the circuit but maybe it's different now.

OK, all wires connected, I get no power to either small terminal with key off and with the key on, I have power to both. With key on and both wires off I get no power to either. With key on, back wire on and front off I get no power to either and with key on, front wire on and back off, I get power to both.

[oldracer]

Sounds like the message I got when the fuse to the ODB2 connector and cigar lighter blew. It is #3 under the dash so I'd say check that and replace if necessary. There might be something taped off the hot wire to the lighter like on mine has a CB radio from the first owner.

When AE starts it should immediately say ODB2 detected and the trying com1 or something similar. It might take a minute and then the type of truck should come up in a pop-up little window and make sure to check that if has the correct engine in the engine pull down. MY 2000 7.3 says there are 478 sensors to read and that takes about 2 minutes. Note, if you do not have the expanded Ford module then those sensors will not show up.

[RopinandRidin]

Oldracer, interestingly, my lighter seems to have a short somewhere because, when I plug things in, sometimes I have to shake it before it'll connect but the fuse is fine. I don't know if the short itself could be causing a problem or not. When AE starts, I have a popup window open and I set the make and year and then choose 7.3L Powerstroke (the only F350 to choose is gas) and that's all it lets me set. I do have the enhanced Ford package.

[NoRalPh]

Originally Posted by RopinandRidin

OK, all wires connected, I get no power to either small terminal with key off and with the key on, I have power to both.
You only read power on Both because, inside, there's just a coil of wire connecting them together.
With key on and both wires off I get no power to either.
Right, no power at all to either terminal on the relay because you REMOVED the power when you took-off those wires. One of the wires has battery voltage in it w/key on. The OTHER wire goes to the PCM. If you put one of your Test Leads on each of the wire ends you should see battery voltage, when the Key is ON (for at least 30 sec. with a cold engine and be off at least 2mins later). If you do, then the PCM is Not dead and supplying the path to ground as it should. This would be the same test a working WTS light would be.
With key on, back wire on and front off I get no power to either and with key on, front wire on and back off, I get power to both.
I'm having trouble following you here, are the back & front wires sm or large?

I'm trying to differentiate between a communication problem with the PCM (so you don't buy one unnecessarily) and a "dead" PCM by looking for signs of life in it with the GPR. If you had a working WTS light, it would be easier

Corrosion in the OBD port can be a problem, in fact why don't you probe the port for evidence of power there (16-Bat & 4-Chassie Ground)