*Cold Start* good then dies - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 12-28-2012, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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*Cold Start* good then dies

01 7.3 if i plug it up or don't it will fire right up no matter how cold it is but if i don't rev it up for a second it just dies then it will NOT start back without starting fluid. now if i rev it up for a second when it cranks its fine.... but also when i don't rev it and it dies it takes 10 min to get it going again and the rest of the day its hard to start cold or not

~7.3 4door 4x4 6speed~
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-28-2012, 04:38 AM
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1st. Throw the starting fluid away.

2nd. How cold is cold for you?

You need to make sure you GP's and GP system is in check. You need a clean fuel filter and low viscosity/weight oil if you are in a northern "cold" climate.

Winter Operation, Hard Starting, Hissing Sound Etc...
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post #3 of 7 Old 12-28-2012, 04:58 AM
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starting fluid is horrible, horrible, horrible. never use it on one of these engines.

currently driving a 335i bmw, no more powerstoke

Previous powerstrokes-
2002- F250 XL 7.3 auto, 4x4
2001- F250 Lariat 7.3 auto, 4x4
2002- F350 Lariat 7.3 Dually, auto, 4x4. 141k miles
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-28-2012, 11:06 AM
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what temps outside are we dealing with?
how long does the truck sit before you need to rev it just after starting it to make sure it will idle?
does it help if you use the block heater?
how many miles are on the truck?
when you start the truck cold what color is the smoke out of the tailpipe and is it excessive while cranking or running at first?

I understand the use of the ether when you feel out of options however unlike these other guys I will explain what they did not.

these engines have no throttle plates so they are essentially at wide open throttle at all times limited only by the amount of fuel they are given.

if you are in a position where you must use ether remember this.

1. if you use to much ether you can experience "engine run away" where the rpm's climb so high so fast that you will see your Tach peg out and even if you turn your key off you will watch your engine blow apart due to hitting 7k rpm on a cold start.

2. the use of ether can cause pre ignition because fuel is in the cylinder earlier than the injector would put it in there and if it fires hard enough it can actually bend a connecting rod.

either way you look at it the use of ether must be a last resort.

I wont tell you not to use it...hell I have on my truck.... just keep that information in mind next time.

anyway knowing the answers to those questions will help us give you a direction to start.

2000 F350 Crew Cab Dually 7.3L Diesel
Automatic Transmission
4X4
K&N FIPK Air Filter / Cold Air Intake
TS Performance 6 Position Chip
4" Suspension Lift
and a uncanny ability to drain my wallet
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post #5 of 7 Old 12-28-2012, 12:40 PM
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The Real issue with using either in our trucks is the fact we have Glow Plugs (they get almost White Hot in there) and because either is So Much more volatile than fuel, that preignition, and the damage that comes with it, is all the more likely.

Be Smart, Don't Ever Use It! Especially when there are other, safer, alternatives to checking for a defueled condition. Many common aerosol products you now have use Propane as the "charge" (WD40-BrakeClean-etc) and will be a better substitute.

If you HAVE to use either to clear a condition, simply remove one of the sm. wires from the GPR first...
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-28-2012, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
The Real issue with using either in our trucks is the fact we have Glow Plugs (they get almost White Hot in there) and because either is So Much more volatile than fuel, that preignition, and the damage that comes with it, is all the more likely.

Be Smart, Don't Ever Use It! Especially when there are other, safer, alternatives to checking for a defueled condition. Many common aerosol products you now have use Propane as the "charge" (WD40-BrakeClean-etc) and will be a better substitute.

If you HAVE to use either to clear a condition, simply remove one of the sm. wires from the GPR first...
This. Listen to the man.
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-28-2012, 08:23 PM
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op, first, check the codes.
if none present, before attempting to start in the morning, remove the oil pressure sender on the HPO reservoir at the front of the engine. peer into the threaded hole to observe oil level. there should be oil no lower than .5"-1" from the top of the reservoir

the richest ones are not those who have the most, but those who need the least

**i don't use capitals. deal with it**
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