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  #1  
Old 12-27-2012, 02:31 PM
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No Start After Gauges and AIH Delete

Me and a buddy installed a set of Glow shift gauges and a AIH delete plug in his 01 today and now the truck just cranks but doesn't start. We've basically returned the truck back to the condition it was when we started (put the AIH back in, unhooked the gauges from the wires we tapped in to, etc.) but it still just cranks and doesn't start.

When cranking the tach jumps around so I would think it's safe to rule out the CPS. Oil levels are good. We're at a loss on what to do now... Any help is appreciated
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkadc View Post
Me and a buddy installed a set of Glow shift gauges and a AIH delete plug in his 01 today and now the truck just cranks but doesn't start. We've basically returned the truck back to the condition it was when we started (put the AIH back in, unhooked the gauges from the wires we tapped in to, etc.) but it still just cranks and doesn't start.

When cranking the tach jumps around so I would think it's safe to rule out the CPS. Oil levels are good. We're at a loss on what to do now... Any help is appreciated
what does it sound like when your cranking it?
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:04 PM
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Honestly I haven't been around a 7.3 in ages, but it sounds like a normal 7.3 cranking IMO. No weird sounds or anything. Logically it seems like it would be a fuel issue since it's just cranking

We did find a blown fuse but it was for the trailer charging. But just pulled the TD 6 position tuner off and still sits their and cranks
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rkadc View Post
Honestly I haven't been around a 7.3 in ages, but it sounds like a normal 7.3 cranking IMO. No weird sounds or anything. Logically it seems like it would be a fuel issue since it's just cranking

We did find a blown fuse but it was for the trailer charging. But just pulled the TD 6 position tuner off and still sits their and cranks
maybe something with the tunes got messed up.. you could try putting the tuner back on
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:14 PM
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Im the buddy in this situation.. its cranking just fine sounds normal.. I have tried it with tuner on and tuner off
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdereu View Post
Im the buddy in this situation.. its cranking just fine sounds normal.. I have tried it with tuner on and tuner off
do you have a diagnostic tool like a DTC scanner.. it could be ICP
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:23 PM
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No but i can go rent one from auto zone
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:36 PM
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Don't bother, all the Auto Parts Stores have are Generic OBD-II scanners and of little use for us.

Also, what year is the truck?

IF the two are related (and they might not be) then you have to go over Every Place you were. Something got "josheled" or disturbed. You may have had a marginal connection that got worse, and there could be Many of those. Look under the wiring harnesses, where they contact stuff like the ValveCovers or anywhere else, and lift them up & off to find a chafe-thru maybe. Were you in the fusebox at all? Could something there have gotten disturbed? What about the connections to the injectors through the VC gaskets?

Maybe it's just coincidental this happened, here's the regular No-Start list I think of;

Do you have a spare CPS to try? (they'll do that to ya, die while running down the road but, will often restart after a rest)

Does the WTS light come on? (shows the computer is running)

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (are you close to empty?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking really slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test. (this means REMOVE it, not just turn it to the STOCK position)

Next, you could try disconnecting the plug on the ICP sensor to det a default value for the IPR to run with. Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape. Try "rapping" on the IPR with a screwdriver handle, sometimes if stuck, you can "free it up".
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
Don't bother, all the Auto Parts Stores have are Generic OBD-II scanners and of little use for us.

Also, what year is the truck?

IF the two are related (and they might not be) then you have to go over Every Place you were. Something got "josheled" or disturbed. You may have had a marginal connection that got worse, and there could be Many of those. Look under the wiring harnesses, where they contact stuff like the ValveCovers or anywhere else, and lift them up & off to find a chafe-thru maybe. Were you in the fusebox at all? Could something there have gotten disturbed? What about the connections to the injectors through the VC gaskets?

Maybe it's just coincidental this happened, here's the regular No-Start list I think of;

Do you have a spare CPS to try? (they'll do that to ya, die while running down the road but, will often restart after a rest)

Does the WTS light come on? (shows the computer is running)

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (are you close to empty?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking really slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test. (this means REMOVE it, not just turn it to the STOCK position)

Next, you could try disconnecting the plug on the ICP sensor to det a default value for the IPR to run with. Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape. Try "rapping" on the IPR with a screwdriver handle, sometimes if stuck, you can "free it up".
Well let me list what i have done so far.. Pulled out my chip, replaced the CPS, unplugged the ICP, tried to start in neutral, unhooked the gauges looked at anything that could have came lose, has about 3/4 tank in it, wait to start light comes on... So what do you guys think now?
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:21 PM
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check your wiring... you tapped into wires? I have seen those videos where they say tap into any 12v source... without regard to where they go and what they run... its a hell of a way to overload a circuit and burn up a wire or contact.

I would undo everything you did and run fused wires off the batteries and solder (not butt connector) the old wires back together. then test that they still are sending power to there destination.



now

test to make sure your GPR is working (roll key on and test both sides of relay)

make sure you did not leave the IHR wires laying exposed where the ground signal wire might have been against the hot feed wire.. if you tried to start like that then you could have shorted out that part of your ECM... the ground signal wire comes straight from the ECM.... make sure that ground still turns on and off with the key.

open the drain valve on the back of your fuel bowl and turn the key on... look under the truck for fuel dumping... if nothing then look into FPR / FP.

if all else fails.... open a 6 pack and clear your head
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