99, 7.3 died, cranks but will not start

[dasiver]

Driving my 7.3, let off on the throttle to slow down for a turn and motor died, coasted into a driveway and tried to restart. Cranks but will not to start. When it died noticed only lights lit on the dash was battery, water temp and the overdrive lock out light on the gear shift was on. Did not have a cel lit.

Tried to start the truck this AM, got all my lights except the "wait to start", turns over but will not fire any cylinders. The overdrive lock out is not lit on the sift lever. Do not have a cel.

Waiting for an analyzer to be delivered to check if any codes have been set, won't be here until 11/13.

This truck has 300k on it and has been very reliable, have replaced the turbo , water pump and alternator, transfer case and a new transmission last year. The motor uses no oil and get about 17 mpg with no load and have never had the fuel system cleaned or overhauled. It has never left me stranded. I have put 3 cam position sensors in it but none of them left me stranded, they would cut out once in a while and set the cel. The last cps was replaced about 6-7 years ago.

[NoRalPh]

Without a WTS light, the most likely thing to have happened (and Very common when it first gets cold and the Fuel Heater comes on for the first time) is that the fuse that protects that heater has blown because the heater is shorted. This fuse also powers the PCM and the lack of the WTS is an indication the PCM isn't running...

Look at the fuse, if it's blown, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the Filter Housing, replace the fuse and see if the WTS comes back on

[bigcountrysg]

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

Without a WTS light, the most likely thing to have happened (and Very common when it first gets cold and the Fuel Heater comes on for the first time) is that the fuse that protects that heater has blown because the heater is shorted. This fuse also powers the PCM and the lack of the WTS is an indication the PCM isn't running...

Look at the fuse, if it's blown, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the Filter Housing, replace the fuse and see if the WTS comes back on

I would start here too, but when you get the scan tool. Hook it up and check the icp pressure. It needs to reach 500 psi in order to start the truck. If it does not read 500psi while cranking, your IPR or HPOP could be bad.

Of course you can always change out the CPS as well just for the heck of it. Because it is known to cause your problem as well.

[dasiver]

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

Without a WTS light, the most likely thing to have happened (and Very common when it first gets cold and the Fuel Heater comes on for the first time) is that the fuse that protects that heater has blown because the heater is shorted. This fuse also powers the PCM and the lack of the WTS is an indication the PCM isn't running...

Look at the fuse, if it's blown, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the Filter Housing, replace the fuse and see if the WTS comes back on

Thanks for the quick reply, I'll try the fuel heater fuse first thing in the AM.

It's times like this I really like my Model T, it's a lot easier to troubleshoot and figure out.

David.

[dasiver]

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

Without a WTS light, the most likely thing to have happened (and Very common when it first gets cold and the Fuel Heater comes on for the first time) is that the fuse that protects that heater has blown because the heater is shorted. This fuse also powers the PCM and the lack of the WTS is an indication the PCM isn't running...

Look at the fuse, if it's blown, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the Filter Housing, replace the fuse and see if the WTS comes back on

Update:

Checked the fuse this AM and was blown, disconnected the fuel heater, replaced the fuse and it started right up. Ordered an aftermarket heater by Dorman for it this morning. Thanks for the help.

David.

[jesilvas]

You could just NOT replace the heater

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.

[dasiver]

Originally Posted by jesilvas

You could just NOT replace the heater

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.

That would not be an option living in South Dakota. I don't run #1 during the winter months but do run Power Service all year around.

David.

[jesilvas]

Think.
How is the fuel bowl going to heat the diesel fuel that's not in the bowl heater . . .
Can't heat the stuff in the tank. And even if you say "it recirculates the heated fuel to the tank to keep it un gelled, you have to get the gelled fuel from the tank, through lines, pump, and then to the heater.

[dasiver]

Originally Posted by jesilvas

Think.
How is the fuel bowl going to heat the diesel fuel that's not in the bowl heater . . .
Can't heat the stuff in the tank. And even if you say "it recirculates the heated fuel to the tank to keep it un gelled, you have to get the gelled fuel from the tank, through lines, pump, and then to the heater.

That is why some type of anti-gel is used in each tank full to keep the fuel from gelling in the tank and fuel line. The choke point is the filter and injection system. Even with anti-gel the paraffin can still start to gel and soon the paraffin will clog the filter, then you are dead in the water, the fuel heater in the bottom of the filter housing will help keep that from happening. When it's -20 degrees outside diesel fuel gets pretty thick.

David.

[dasiver]

Originally Posted by dasiver

Update:

Checked the fuse this AM and was blown, disconnected the fuel heater, replaced the fuse and it started right up. Ordered an aftermarket heater by Dorman for it this morning. Thanks for the help.

David.

Pulled the fuel filter to get at the old heater element and saw that it was burned in half. Replaced the heater and reconnected, starts and runs like a new one.

David.