99 ford f350 7.3 1/99 built yr motor problems - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:34 PM
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99 ford f350 7.3 1/99 built yr motor problems

Hi guys

i have been reading/reading reading but im still stumped to find out whats going on with my truck. about a yr ago i bought this truck with 204k on my truck never no motor problems. it now has 241k now installed a a piller 4 guage setup with trans,boost exhaust,fuel pressure guage have had it installed for less then a yr 7 months now. (the brand is glow shift) started pulling campers across the us no problems untill i had a return fuel leak.

took it to kerry ford in cinci oh they fixed the water sep/valve and return line go 600 miles into my trip.. my fuel pressure gauge goes bounceing so i took it too a shop in wy they said nothing wrong with it so i changed the fuel filter. keep going once in awhile still bounce then it would go back to normal i figure it would be just a stupid gauge not working.

so again no problems with truck though no idle probs no starting issues the same old truck. weeks go by gauge still bounceing till one day now she is maxed out on 100lbs. but again no problems with truck for weeks still runs drives and no stalling no codes no nothing. so after taken it to another shop they say the same thing. so again i ignore it. weeks later i head to tx del my ld sitting at a truck stop to do some local driving and after no running motor for hours.

i start the truck she idle fines untill i get to pull out of truck stop she starts missing but lightly or idleing lil diffrent. but then cleared up so again paid no mind to it..


so i get up to indiana to pick up my new camper to head south here is where i ran into alot of problems. soon as i get 100 miles into my trip i see my chk motor light flash but not staying on so i pull into a rest stop running like crap idle rough just running like crap. so i take a rest nxt mor ing head to parts store to get codes on computer. no codes no running like crap fine so i get running down rd 100 miles running like crap allmost stalling idle like crap light flashing again but not on. stop at another parts store buy a fuel filter and oil and filter and a computer scan again no codes. let it sit 4 a bit after changeing filters oil good no idle no problems.

Get home back to NY take it to a shop spent 130 on a computer scan no codes no lights. take it to another shop they scan it charge me $304 saying i have 2 bad injectors #3 and #8 they looked at motor on valve covers no loose/broken wires nothing wrong. they say they did a compression test they say my psi was not bad but not good they say they ran 312 to 318 . so they told me that they wanted to replace #3 and #8 but i still might throw codes for a ICP sensor. so i bought #3 and #8 Reman injectors gonna put them in nxt week am i wasting my time with this motor as im reading on post or am i doing okay if i replace the 2 injectors. its my only DD and my only hauler to make money i have way too much money in truck but i can't figure out the problem.

also its my 1st deisel and i dont know nothing about them but i can't afford all 8 injectors nor a shop to charge me 3500 to fix it...

UPDATE 2ND SHOP FOUND THEESE CODES P1211 P0269 P0284 just found the report from 2nd shop.
Please help me figure this out

Last edited by feonix1123; 11-14-2012 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:30 AM
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ok, first off, the # and #8 injectors will ALWAYS show up bad, if you have the grey CPS sensor. Don't waste ur $$$ on injectors.

Second, you need to remove the FPR on the fuel bowl..(fuel pressure regulator). Inspect it for debris and/or misalignment of spring. It needs to be set in the "birdcage" of the FPR.

Inspect the coolant for oil / fuel. With that high pressure (giving that the gauge is accurate), possible you could've blown out an oring or two...

3rd, remove as much fuel as you can, and do the HUTCH mod...
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
YTou dont have to run the 'reutrn" line so far from pick-up foot, nor do you need a "lift pump". Get urself a filter from NAPA...#33007.

Report back ur findings
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:50 AM
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iv'e been reading reading i did try something mean while i have a cps and a icp on order will get them today anyway. But i just had one hell of a time starting her this morning (Nothing new) same as before. after started big cloud of white smoke outta tail pipe but again it took allmost a few mins to start at cranking her for a min or 2. but i read somewhere if u disconnect the icp when running if it changes sound its bad. Well i tried that and the motor did sound different. So is this telling me that i also have a bad icp? I did read on here about a cps being bad too some have said that the tach will not move when starting at a long start again it did not move so does that say my cps is bad too?
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:09 AM
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never understood the "needle moving" theory. Mine doesnt budge, not does my oil pressure gauge.(aftermarket), until motor fires up. Then it reads 40psi and 20 at idle once warm.

DOesthe smoke clear up? Its possible, that the gauge WAS working, and now you have a blown o-ring or two...causingthe smoke.

Its not a bad idea to have a spare CPS in the glovebox either. Since you ordered a new ICP too, install that..( i just installed one, since the originals' been in since 8/99).

Remove the allen plug atop the hpop resivoir, and check oil level. Should be 1/2in-3/4in below plughole...(check while cold). If low, thats an indication of oil leaking back into crankcase..thus, the hard starts.
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:07 PM
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okay i update you all now. installed the new grey cps sensor i had to replace the damn v belt too it broke this am.. think god i was in driveway after that done...


i start it up she started right up again but its warmer out now and so on. no smoke motor seems to be running same chk motor light on still runs rough i run the rms lil high i hear something on the driver side kinda like popping or a valve knocking but its only when stepping into it. so now im off to go get my new icp sensor now that its in im gonna install it chk the codes with scanner clear em the see how she runs....

i sure hope it dont need a valve job but im allmost to getting the cover off the valves. if i do take driver cover off what am i looking for? or what can i test or can i run motor to see if i see something different?


i dont have a shop nor shop tools but standard tools and day light.. hehe

thanks for the help and i hope we can get this pointed out b4 injectors comes in on wensday
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:34 PM
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you can ohm out the glow plugs and injectors att he 9-pin connector...(i 'll find/post in a bit). Also, you can, with valve covers off, fire motor up and watch the oil discharge from the injectors. If 1 or more isn't, then you know ur suspect/s.

The knock/png, could just be air in the fuel lines. With #8 injector being last to fire, it doesnt get much fuel, since #6 fires b4 it. A remedy is a regulated reutrn or the FRx..Riffraff Diesel: Fuel Rail Crossover™ , along with doing the HUTCH mod...Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

Make sure the injector hold down bolts are torqued correctly and also the rocker arm bolts...

The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:

G G I I C I I G G

G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common

The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.

Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.

To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms

If you find readings outside these numbers, pull that valve cover and check for the loose connector.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:23 PM
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well i installed the new icp sensor i think she is starting to even get worce lol at 1st rut rut rut rut rut then she cleard up but while stepping into it she sounds sick. im gonna run the scan tool to see what i see now..

update no codes prob cause i bought a cheezy setup from advance auto but i do clear codes but motor light goes off then as soon as i start him light comes on. its getting dark and cold and im done 4 the night.. but i unhooked the icp from brand new icp and still bogs down same as b4..

Last edited by feonix1123; 10-22-2012 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:05 PM
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the...rut rut rut rut, could be too heavy of oil for this time of year. Is it cold where your at? If so, switch to synthetic 5w-40. Also, could be your EBPV is sticking. Look under the turbo toward the downpipe. You'll see a rod protruding from the turbo pedestal. If you can, reach under there and flip the "clip" up or toward the firewall. Release it from the exhaust side of turbo, then actuate the rod at exhaust sdie, to make sure it aint sticking. With it disconnected, fire up motor again. A stuck EBPV can give the rut rut rut/bog down with go pedal depressed.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:41 PM
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well to be honest im not sure whats going on.. Ive been having problems with it idleing real bad to all most a stall but not stalling. Then after i fresh oil/filter/fuel filter it Stoped the idle bs. But the chk engine light would flash but not stay on or throw codes. So till one day it was a cooler morning took me 5 tries to start. it did pop over after a 100 cranks. then i let it sit half the day turned it back over then rough/missing idle.. Step on fuel cleared up. then i took it to a shop they ran there test and when i got it back they charged me 300+ and the motor light was on..... they say glow plugs good all wires to injectors were good 2 bad injectors #3 and #8 and maybe a bad icp sensor. they said compression was okay but not as high as he wanted it but no where near 300 on all cyls...

so i was hoping its not injectors and it was the crank or icp sensor. truck has 241k on him he's been towing heavy loads maybe its wore out. but i dont think the shop would tell me they will fix the injectors if it had bad cyls right?

my only prob is im broke poor as a dog and can't afford 2k in injectors so i went and bought 2 re man injectors for number 3 and #8 i would like to do em all do the wire harness and the valve cover gaskets. but i can't at this time and its killing me cause this truck is dwn and its not hauling so guess what no money coming in... so i have never done injectors b4 but i have seen tons of vids seems pretty easy if i watch step by step and take my time...
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:51 PM
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tomorrow i will finish pulling off the driver side valve cover at least get it ready for injectors on wensday i'll look over wires with my own eyes. i'll look for oil squirting in all injectors. i'll even look in to turbo area to see if i see something bad maybe even clean up the motor area without getting any thing in ports.. TIMMY you have been great help just wish you were here lol oh yeah im in NY UPSTATE NY just south of syracuse,ny again all the questions and help is welcome i'm all ears and will try just about anything at this point.

p.ss when i had the motor also running with tubes off i did see smoke coming out of turbo area air/filter tube and lil smoke outta the oil cap filler area with cap off but no splashing up no smell of burt wires...


another question when valve cover is off is it safe to run motor without tubes and cover off the motor area?
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