New to Forum / Just bought my 1st Diesel & have some diagnostic questions

[importrepairguy]

Hello all.
For starters, I'm a seasoned Gasoline Mechanic, in no way am I knowledgeable about diesels, although they seem fairly simplistic.

That being said, I purchased an 01 Ford F350 King Cab LB 4x4 w/ 153k Miles Sunday.
Truck was a Landscape truck & pushed a Plow half its life, A bit rough, but the price was right & it Ran, just had a few symptoms that didn't seem to be of major concern after consulting w/ a diesel mech buddy of mine while haggling over the truck price w/ seller.

So, I bought it. Has a re-man Jasper Trans, Engine runs w/ a Miss. It also smokes constantly. Scanned truck while looking at it & no codes present.

Yesterday, took to my buddies shop, we found a dead injector #8, Oil was flowing, but when unplugged it made no difference.

We changed the injector, (Some oil obviously got into cylinder - Im learning as I go), New injector installed, Fired truck up, still had miss (but made a difference for a seconds - assuming the oil in the cylinder helped bump compression & seal rings?). Checked all other 7 Injectors, all good. When unplugging them while running they cause engine stumble, #8 does nothing. If #8 is unplugged while running, the oil stops flowing. So, diagnosis says (per friend) injector is working correctly & I have a dead cylinder. Going to do a compression test here this morning.

My Diesel friend says heads are easy to do, but I'm curious w/ the low mileage, what would go wrong in the Head or Rings & why? Truck is stock, no mods, all original, just a tough life.

If It needs rings, should I do all cylinders on that side, just one cylinder? Or should I pull both heads & re-ring entire engine. Hoping this can be done in the vehicle?

Turbo Compressor seal is leaking oil, Perhaps the smoking issue, Im looking into a seal kit (I've rebuilt gasoline Journal bearing Turbochargers) & install a new Comp wheel for performance or, get a good used Turbo or Buy an Aftermarket unit...


Lastly, I have plans for this truck: Turbo, Full exhaust, Programmer, 22.5" wheels w/ DRW conversion. So, if going into top of engine, knowing my plans, what should I do? Just looking for voices of experience.

I'll post up the Comp reading. I'm currently searching for what it should be (My gauge registers 300psi only.

- Thanks

[importrepairguy]

Ok. So, thanks for the insight : /

Compression as I had expected:
LEFT CYL HEAD
#8: 110
#6: 320
#4: 380
#2: 370

RIGHT CYL HEAD
#7: 375
#5: 370
#3: 360
#1: 380

In process of Pulling engine this weekend, Going to re-build it.
That being said, someone told me 7.3 Conn Rods were only FORGED in the 99-00 Models? Is this true? Are the 01-up suspect or problematic w/ Higher HP engines? Should I source a set? What mods need to be done for a bullet-proof engine?

[2000-7.3L]

WELCOME TO THE SITE!!!
if you need parts email me and let me kno, i can get you some smokin deals on parts

[85_305]

You'll get better replies if you repost this in the General section. Not many people go into this part of the forum.

ALL of the numbers look low for that truck... wtf happened?! I'd be worried about the cylinder walls.

Why are the seals in the turbo shot? Any shaft play or housing scoring? I would have the whole turbo professionally rebuilt; not a good idea to just replace seals.

'01+ motors had pmr rods, which grow weak after 450whp.

Programmer; horrible idea on these. Get custom tunes.

[Demian1970]

I, too had bad compression on #8 in my 7.3. Removed the head and found cylinder wall damage from the piston crown making contact with it.
Sent out the block and had #8 sleeved and everything punched out .20 over.
As I'm sure you discovered, an automotive compression tester won't work for a diesel, as "low" compression is where a gas engine tester tops off.

[importrepairguy]

Thanks for the replies, I thought this was a good place to post up. Been doing allot of reading & searching on various forums.
For starters, I think the truck has had a the Cluster swapped. I cannot prove that w/o wasting hours researching & carfax maybe, not worth my trouble. That being said, Im assuming reasonable to high mileage on the engine is reason fro the lower compression figures.

The Turbo I am more than capable & experienced to overhaul, 20 Years in the Performance industry w/ Turbo charging gasoline engines... Im thinking, the ATS Compressor housing w/ a 1.0 AR Turbin or a VAN 1.15 Turbin housing w/ or w/o Wicked wheel for the extra irritating whistle. Perhaps later I'll consider a GTP38R or something similar for bolt-on power, But this is a pleasure, tow rig, not a drag or competition truck.

I have yet to pull the engine or that Cyl head covering the bad cylinder, however that will happen early next week, I have been overwhelmed w/ paying jobs, & they hold priority in my shop, they pay the bills... Ive priced out my Overhaul kit w/ Mahle pistons & Using both ARP Head Studs & ARP Rod Bolts should suffice. The ARP mains are overkill & Line boring would be a requirement & extra expense I think is not needed for my power goals. What are your thoughts?

Ive researched the powder vs Forged rods & apparently they are not as weak as speculation has it. Apparently the 6.0 has same Powder "Pressed rods" and are extremely durable. I have access to used Forged rods for $200, but not certain they are necessary, especially when using the ARP Rod bolts? Anyone care to speculate?

As far as Tuners go, I'm looking at the TS Chip & using Beans Performance tunes. Ive read great things, I don't need a tuner for an interface, I'll just install gauges.

Im currently pricing Injectors & perhaps a Pump, But so many variables... Hard to sift thru the BS on forum threads. I want to retain good MPG & yet have power on demand. Also, Id like to swap out the Jasper Torque converter for something beefier while engine is out, Any recommendations? My budget is not big & primary funds are going to build the engine & repair Turbo, The extras will be Injectors & other items as I can raise the $$ and perhaps scoop up a good deal, I am not opposed to used items.

Anything else that may need updating or upgraded while engine is apart please chime in. I want to do this once.

- Cheers

[85_305]

What "pump" are you considering replacing?

head studs... totally unnecessary.

7.3's can hold up to around 600hp or so on stock block... 6.0's can tap 1,000hp (I THINK) on stock block. They aren't the same thing at all.

This is a great FORUM.. but you are posting in the wrong PART of the forum. Navigate over here:
99-03 7.3L General Discussion - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

[Demian1970]

For what it's worth, I bought a diesel compression tester after my rebuild, and when cold my engine had readings similar to yours (except your #8) with new rings and pistons and about 800 miles on the rebuild.
I'm thinking they actually need the expansion from the burning charge to fully seal the cylinder.