P1316 IDM code

[captinbill2003]

Ok so to start off, I have searched the forum and I have used the posts to trouble shoot, and still no luck. What I am having a problem with is the right bank (pass side). I pulled the valve cover and checked the UVCH for loose connection, nothing. Checked for burnt pins, non noticed. Checked for frayed wires all the way from the UVCH to the IDM, none. When I OHM test the injectors from the IDM connector only 1 Injector shows normal (3.4), the others are 55, 95, 140. Is it possible that I blew 3 injector solenoids at the same time? seems pretty unlikely.

[NoRalPh]

You need to expand on that IDM code though...

P1316 it telling you that the IDM has codes that will direct you to what it "sees" as a problem (take the guess-work out of it for you). To do this, you need to use a diagnostic scanner capable of pulling IDM codes after it does a Buzz Test of the injectors.

That's where you should start, get the specific IDM codes that set the 1316 (a code that, again, just tells you that there are IDM codes that need to be retrieved) in the first place...

[captinbill2003]

Im hoping that I can get it figured out without using the software, only because Im selling the truck once I get it figured out so I dont really want to spend the $300+ on Autoenginuity for a one time thing.

[NoRalPh]

Originally Posted by captinbill2003

Im hoping that I can get it figured out without using the software, only because Im selling the truck once I get it figured out so I dont really want to spend the $300+ on Autoenginuity for a one time thing.

First, it's not just the AE that can pull those codes. Any professional scanner should be able to do it too! Might be worth paying somebody for an accurate diagnosis.

Second, you sound like you're into fixin' your own stuff, you know the AE can do, pretty much, everything. This might not be a "one-time-thing". I'm a big believer in "good tools" for the next decade or so you might want to have one (of course, not always easy to come up with the funds at any given time I know...)

Without knowing the specifics it's harder to tell but, time was, we didn't have these tools and made-out OK (although, I think a bunch of stuff got replaced that didn't need to). What makes you think it's the right side? Have you compared manifold temps? Can you get one of those digital pyrometers to actually compare the 4 exhaust ports? Can you confirm 3 non-firing cylinders?