Join Date: Apr 2012
Thanked 197 Times in 195 Posts
Mentioned: 147 Post(s)
Quoted: 342 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
the factory design uses an organic/metal packing which is sandwiched to seal the up pipe connection. what usually happens is the ends of the up pipes get worn out which causes the seal to fail and the packing to start blowing out. whenever we do up pipe packings, we cut the ends off and tig weld new stainless steel ends on.
you'll need to remove the turbo, then the Y coupler and up pipes. if they're leaking bad enough, the up pipes will just fall right out of the Y coupler when the turbo is pulled out.
that will make it easy.
start by spraying down the manifold to up pipe bolts with penetrating oil. passenger and drivers side. if possible, let them soak overnight.
unbolt the manifold to up pipe bolts. remove everything necessary to get the turbo out. CAC tubes, intake spider, disconnect down pipe, air cleaner boot, etc..
unbolt the turbo from the pedestal. disconnect the ebpv by sliding the locking tab back and gently prying the lever away from the pin. pull the turbo forward enough so you can get the Y coupler v band clamp popped off. popping that sucker off can be tricky as there's not much room to maneuver. i usually like to try and get a small flat blade right through the center of a band and pry up. however, if the up pipes both just fall out of the coupler, consider yourself lucky and just remove the turbo with Y coupler attached and separate the coupler on the bench.
to remove the packings, 9 times out of 10, you'll need to heat up the Y coupler with a torch to get those bolts out. they'll either be seized. or you'll end up picking up a thread.
once the bolts are removed, you can get the packings out to replace. clean your surfaces with a wire brush.
you see where the failure has occurred? the up pipe ends are all chewed up. reinstalling as is will not suffice for long. that's why we cut them and tig new and improved ends on.
now, i've tried about every method possible for installation. lived through a few failures and have finally devised a quick and easy-ish method. using all new nuts and bolts and never seize on all of them, of course, loosely install the packings and sandwiching clamps to the Y coupler. notice that there is a locating pin on the coupler to locate the flange on turbo? that there is what makes the job a real treat. lining that up in the vehicle. so, get a bright colored paint marker and mark a line moving away from the flange on the coupler where that pin is. then, a line on the turbo flange where the hole is. then, get underneath and loosely install the up pipes to the manifolds. up top, install the coupler loosely onto the up pipes.
now get your turbo back in there and get the bolts started. if the drain and feed o rings on the pedestal looked good and supple, i usually just reuse them. a little bit of grease in the o ring recesses insures that they stay put.
now the fun part, lining up the turbo to Y flange. get a trouble light right in there so you can see the markings you made. for this, i like to belly flop over the engine bay and get my head right up under the cowl so i can see the locating pin and markings. with everything loose, you should be able to get the flanges to seat correctly. once you do, tighten that v band clamp on there good and tight. if you can't fit your head under the cowl to see the back of the turbo, you'll need to use a mirror, which can be a bit of a PITA.
why not just bolt the coupler to the turbo while it's on the bench you ask and then slide it over the up pipes in the vehicle? tried that. the angle of the up pipes can cause the ends to snag the packings when installing. then, getting the turbo to seat on the pedestal and bolts started, don't work so well. last time i did that, the snagged up pipe actually ended up ****ing the turbo slightly forward. bolted down the turbo, thought everything was good, fired it up, huge frigging mess of oil out the feed hole which didn't seal because of the ****ed turbo. about 10 liters of oil down the back of the motor within seconds.
so yeah, i consider this to be the safest method.
anyways, back on topic.
you've got that flange lined up and v band clamp tight. now tighten the turbo to pedestal bolts. slip the ebpv lever back over the pin and slide the tab on.
get underneath and tighten the manifold to up pipe bolts evenly.
while under there, tighten the drivers side up pipe to Y coupler bolts good and tight and evenly.
the passenger side up pipe to Y bolts can be a bit tricky. use a universal socket and long extension to get the rearward one from underneath. you can get the other one from up top using a short extension. should be able to get straight on it behind the turbo.
the rest is pretty much reverse of removal.
consider yourself lucky that you're removing these while they're leaking.
anybody who has had to remove them while the packings are still good and connections are solid knows what i'm talking about.
or, as mentioned, you can buy the aftermarket one piece up pipe unit with the bellows. that will save you a lot of hassle. then, just take what you need from this little write up and transfer it over to the installation of that product. or just follow their instructions. whichever you find easier