Battery Light is on... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:07 PM
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Battery Light is on...

I have a 2001 F250 that I bought two years ago to daily drive, however after doing it for a year or so (driving 70 miles one way to work), I bought a 2012 Focus for the daily duties, and the truck became the the work horse and only being driven when a foot of snow falls or the Mustang needs hauled to the track.

I put off modding it for 2 years, but it was a losing battle and I just started with the performance mods. Last week I started off my fixing an oil leak under the turbo and replaced both sets of O rings. I figured that while the turbo was out I would upgrade the turbo impeller to an X Wheel from XDP (i know it wont really benifit me any being mostly stock, however I like the whine and it may cure problems down the road) and bought a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust.

I put everything together and the oil leak was fixed, the exhaust worked smoothly, and the turbo really whistled. However, my battery light stayed on. I did have the driver's side battery out and the tray out to make it easier to put the hotside intercooler pipe back on, however I never disconnected the driver's side. But I checked and made sure that everything was hooked back up the way it was suppose to be. I did find an alternator wire that was partially cut, most likely because of me bending over the car and I may have rested the turbo on it as I was removing it. Well I cut that wire, added a male and female connector to the wire, and plugged it together. Battery light is still on.

I busted out the ohm meter and key off both batteries tested at 13.7v. Truck running they both tested 12.7v. Just to verify, my issue is still at the alternator, right? Any ideas what I can do or check to fix this?

Thank You!
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:34 PM
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Have you had the alternator tested to see if it is working correctly?
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:59 PM
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I havent yanked the alt or driven the truck to the nearest parts store to get tested yet. It was working fin before I started this project, so I figured it was something I had to have touched. Granted, the truck does have 174k on it, so it definately is possible that the alt just decided to retire.

I forgot to mention, when putting the exhaust in (by myself), I was having some issues keeping the two of the pipes where I wanted them as I tightened the exhaust clamps down, so I grabbed my welder and put a small spot weld on the two pipes so that they would stay as I tightened the clamp down. I know that the ignition and a few other parts on my Mustang stated to disconnect them if I ever weld on the car, but I didnt even think about this for the truck. Could the welding of one small spot on the exhaust (where the exhaust goes over the rear axle) caused the alternator to crap out?
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:58 PM
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Update:

Drove the truck to the local autoparts store and they tested the battery and alternator while in the truck. They told me the batteries are fine, however needed a charge (I had put them both on a charger the day before just to try and eliminate one of the variables) and that the alternator was only putting out 30 amps (per the diagnostic equipment they had hooked up to the battery).
When got home, I removed the alternator and took it to the local alternator/generator/starter shop who does rebuilds, and he tested the alternator and said it worked fine and that I should test the connector on the back of the alternator (black/orange stripe). Here are my results with an ohm meter with the car on:

Black/orange Stripe: 13.4v
Orange Small Wire: 10.5v
Green Small Wire: 2.2v.

WTF IS CAUSING THIS BATTERY LIGHT?????
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:54 PM
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Bump...still needing help

I replaced the pigtail into the alternator just to see if I hurt that when I accidentally cut one of the wires coming out, but no difference. I tested all connections before and after my splices too and got the same reading on both sides.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:55 PM
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Another update...replaced the alternator and the battery light is still on. Batteries when on are testing the same as the old alternator.

Come on Powerstroke.org!
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:17 AM
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FOUND IT!

I had checked Fuse #6 under the hood which was suppose to be for the alternator and it was fine, but I never checked #7 (secondary alternator) because my truck isnt equipped with the secondary alternator. However I pulled #7 today (5 amp) and it was blown. Replaced it and the light went out. I have to get taking off to work now, but I will bust out the multitester and test everything after.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:23 AM
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when testing the batteries, you are testing them completely separate, yes? disconnecting both terminals prior? the batteries operate in parallel, so this must be done for an accurate test.

another thing: I busted out the ohm meter and key off both batteries tested at 13.7v. Truck running they both tested 12.7v.

key off, a 6 cell battery should never test more than 12.6v. 2.1v per cell.
KOER, they should test @ roughly 2v above battery v. that is a basic guideline.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:59 AM
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowFox View Post
FOUND IT!

I had checked Fuse #6 under the hood which was suppose to be for the alternator and it was fine, but I never checked #7 (secondary alternator) because my truck isnt equipped with the secondary alternator. However I pulled #7 today (5 amp) and it was blown. Replaced it and the light went out. I have to get taking off to work now, but I will bust out the multitester and test everything after.
I had a problem with #6 fuse blowing occaisionally - it's on the alternator sense line. Finally found the intermittent short where the wire goes over the valve cover - they left the protective sheath above 3 inches short - including the wire next to it - easy fix, devishly hard to find. Of course when the short showed up it killed both batteries - would run for hundreds of miles, and then show up again - very frustrating until I found it.
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