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post #1 of 10 Old 04-19-2012, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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starting issues

i did the whole search thing and read through the tech files and there is just too much info to try and figure out where i should start with mine.

i have a 2003 7.3 that i don't drive very much
if i start the truck every day or two it starts and runs fine
if i leave it for a few days, it chugs with the starter for a few minutes before it will finally idle on it's on
once it starts and idles on it's own, it runs like a bag of feces for a few minutes


i tried starting it today after it had been sitting for 2 weeks. i checked the oil in the HPOP reservoir before i did anything and the level was down about 1/2" from the top which seems to be about normal as it goes down to this level after sitting overnight. i checked that trying to start the truck because i was sure that it was draining down and causing my problems but it doesn't seem to be the problem. it took about 5 minutes of cranking before it finally started today. it blew out puffs of black smoke as the starter cranked it over. after it started up i put it in drive and it didn't have enough power to move the truck. i had to run it at high idle for about 2 minutes before it had enough power to move on it's own. once i got it to move, i drove it for about 500' before it turned into an awesome running truck with no problems.

i checked the glow plugs with my ammeter and they are drawing about 50 amps per bank (just over 100 amps total)

the GPR is clicking in


after the truck has started and warmed up for a few minutes, it runs awesome with no problems at all.

what should my next step be here?.... something leads me to believe i have injector issues but it seems to me that injector issues would be there with a hot or cold engine.
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-20-2012, 05:21 AM
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50amps per bank is way too low. stone cold should be closer to 30amps per plug.
but i don't think plugs are the problem since you say it fires right up so long as it's been started within say a 24hr period.
definitely sounds injector related.
you can try a buzz test cold. though that may not tell you much since the problem could be mechanical. have you checked for codes? do you have a diag tool with datalogging capabilities?
here's what i'd do: you need glow plugs anyways. pull the injectors while you're at it and have them tested
that's after some preliminary checks with the IDS though
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-20-2012, 06:02 AM
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sounds injector related. i had a truck come into the shop that sounded exactly like that when cold/cranking and it turned out it needed an IDM.

p.s. your starter motor hates you.
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-20-2012, 07:59 PM
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usually the IDM won't just do it cold though. it's possible. but more likely the injectors
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-21-2012, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaya@bernhausen View Post
50amps per bank is way too low. stone cold should be closer to 30amps per plug.
but i don't think plugs are the problem since you say it fires right up so long as it's been started within say a 24hr period.
definitely sounds injector related.
you can try a buzz test cold. though that may not tell you much since the problem could be mechanical. have you checked for codes? do you have a diag tool with datalogging capabilities?
here's what i'd do: you need glow plugs anyways. pull the injectors while you're at it and have them tested
that's after some preliminary checks with the IDS though
I actually bought this truck off of Sat last August. I was going to bring in to to get the ABS codes read on it sometime soon.

When Sat was driving this truck around he never let it sit for more than a day so he wasn't aware of any starting problems.

I've been told by someone else that the problem sounds like an injector o-ring that is slowly draining the fuel system down so it takes a while to prime the system. The puffs of black smoke would be residual fuel sitting on a piston or two getting slowly burnt off in puffs as I crank the engine over.
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-21-2012, 08:17 PM
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hey, right on. yea, i was gonna suggest to bring it by when i saw your location. but, i'm sure you wanna try and get this solved yourself if possible. that's an interesting theory. easy way to check would be pull the fuel filter after it's been sitting for awhile and see if there's fuel in the bowl
also, if you have the capability, it wouldn't hurt to check for any codes

Last edited by kaya; 04-21-2012 at 08:27 PM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-21-2012, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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is it possible for a leaky injector to drain the filter bowl?

i will have to bring it by to get codes read. i tried plugging in my princess auto code reader and it came up with 97 codes that made no sense....
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-21-2012, 10:24 PM
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ye, the PA code reader isn't capable of reading the codes you have.
TBH, no. motor would hydraulic if that much fuel bled into the cylinder. not sure if a blown fuel o ring would allow fuel into the cylinder either, as i would suspect that the sealing washer would keep it from entering the cylinder. hard to say. maybe give sat a call monday and ask him about that. may have to take a look at it

Last edited by kaya; 04-21-2012 at 10:28 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-06-2012, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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rev-x fixed my starting problems.... i can't explain it, i just decided to try it after reading about all of the good reviews on it all over the place.

i did an oil change, my brother drove it around for a week to alberta and back, i left it to sit for a week and it cranked right over with no coughing or sputtering.

i've always though oil additives were a joke....
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-06-2012, 10:34 PM
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Huh. Well I hope all is well for ya but normally there isn't any mechanic in a bottle.
If a fuel injector oring is leaking the fuel would leak into the engine oil when sitting. Keep a close eye on your oil level and how slippery it feels. A good indicator would be when it starts feeling just like, well, diesel fuel.

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