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Old 04-11-2012, 04:42 PM
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Crank, no start

Truck has been sitting for about a week. Started it today and drove it for about 3 minutes around the yard. Stopped, started back up and put it in the parking spot. Came back out to try to crank it and it just spins. Wait to start light came on. I noticed there was oil pressure building as it spun over. Also noticed the battery light would stay on then flash two times slowly then go off then come back on.

Unplugged the EOT sensor and it started right up. Turned it off and restarted. Plugged EOT back in and it wouldn't start. Changed out the EOT and fired up 3 times in a row. Drove it around, stopping twice and it fired off with on hesitation. Get to the driveway, turned it off, went to turn it back on and just spins.

Unplugged the new EOT and still nothing (WTS light was on the first two times). Checked oil, it was low so added about 1.5 quarts. Also noticed no oil pressure building and also the oil light next to the OP gauge is lit up, don't remember that from before. No check engine lights while I was driving.

Now what?


***** FIXED ******

We believe it was the relay under the hood for the PCM. We have changed it out and we will see what happens. Here is a list of what occured:

1. Truck would crank (spin) but never start (fire) randomly.

2. Wait to start light would come on and all of the dash lights would come as normal and the truck would start. If the Wait to Start light did not come on or only for a brief second (as if it were warm) AND the Service Engine Soon Light would come on and go out immediately the truck would crank but not start.

3. I have an aftermarket CD player in my truck. If the radio (FM/AM) was on the last time you shut it off and the PCM would lose connection on the next crank, the CD player would start playing and not the radio like it should.

4. Happened when it was hot or cold.

5. Computer showed a control module keep alive memory error code. Could have been attributed to me unhooking the batteries or maybe the relay, but something to be aware of. After it was cleared no other error codes ever showed up.

6. Computer randomly could not communicate with PCM.

7. Computer ran self-tests on truck and never came up with anything wrong.

Last edited by merc123; 04-16-2012 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:14 PM
Johnny Law Brown

 

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Check all the fuses and put on a good scanner could be a host of problems is your fuel bowl full
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:30 PM
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I'll check the fuel bowl tomorrow and change out the fuel filter while I'm at it.

Don't have anyone around with a scanner other than Autozone or some place like that...

I went back out and it started up with a slight hesitation. I moved it out of the driveway and turned it off. Restarted it and revved it up to about 2k RPM and held it for about 10 seconds. Let it idle down then turned it off. Would not start.

Wonder if it could be the CPS? It's the newer style.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:28 AM
Johnny Law Brown

 

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Is it the gray cps
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:34 AM
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Yes it is grey.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:08 AM
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In a 2000 truck, the test for a dead CPS is to watch the tach. You should see the needle bump-up as you crank on the starter. The CPS is what drives the tach needle for an rpm indication (this changed mid-'01).

A bad EOT sensor might prevent the PCM from turning on the GP relay. I think that would be why unplugging it made a difference for you before maybe...

Forget AZ and their scanner, it won't help you because our trucks are not, strictly OBD-II.

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check)

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:59 AM
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I'm getting ready to leave work to go run through the tests. The tach did not move while cranking. I'll double check fuel bowl and unplug the IPR and see. I'm going to replace the CPS just because it wouldn't hurt. If it doesn't fix it I'll put the old one in the glove box for a spare.

Truck is not chipped.
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:39 AM
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Not the CPS. I replaced it and oddly enough the tach didn't move until just before it started. I unplugged the IPR and still no crank.

It started right up in succession 4 times in a row. I let it run a little bit and warmed it up then drove it up the road and back. Turned it off and no start. There is no loss of power, no smoke, nothing. Oil pressure comes up while cranking and when running. Oil is full.

Taking it to a mechanic to run diagnostics. He mentioned injector o-rings are a big things he's seen a lot in my situation...so I'll keep it posted.

Last edited by merc123; 04-12-2012 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 04-12-2012, 12:55 PM
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You don't unplug the IPR, it'll Never start like that, it's the ICP that you can test by unplugging. Maybe you're just calling it by the wrong name? The ICP is in the Front of the Drivers side Head, the IPR below it and more centered in the valley.

The IPR issues are when the "Tin Nut" backs off and allows the coil to move around (other than internally failing)
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Old 04-12-2012, 01:10 PM
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I unplugged the IPR. I meant to unplug the ICP but forgot to. No biggie. Mechanic should know something in the morning! No guessing games
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