***IDM injector wires question*** - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:40 PM
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***IDM injector wires question/help***

Ok brief explanation of what I did & what's happening. I installed an alarm/remote start on my '99. I tapped into my Tach wire in the cluster, alternator wire & #5 injector wire from IDM. I spliced into those wires due to remote starting issues for the remote starts sensing wire. Finally ended up using the alternator wire for sensing.
Now about a week ago I drove to get some food & noticed my SES light was on. It went off after about a minute (didn't notice any stumbles or miss with engine). Parked went in and ate. Started it up and SES light was back on. Drove home (about 5 miles) and light stayed on entire time & it feels as if its not firing on all cylinders. Hooked my scanner up to it and said no codes found (shocker), buddy has an OTC scanner (no codes found). Took it to Ford place and they found a P1316 code. He ran a test and said it was my #5 injector. Cleared all codes and when I started it back up SES light is back on. Did some research and I've bought a UVCH set thinking it may be a bad connection there. Haven't been able to do hands on yet due to having shoulder surgery last Wednesday. So haven't ohm'd any thing yet.
I was thinking since he said its my #5 injector and I spliced into the #5 injector wire from IDM maybe that's the problem. I had the remote starts sensing wire connected to IDM wire for about a week before moving it to alternator wire. That was about three weeks from when SES light came on (so it was running good for three weeks after I moved wire). When I disconnected the sensing wire from IDM wire I just left the spliced wire intact (its about a 3' long wire) & put sometape around the end of it. If I undo that spliced wire will that fix or prevent any future problems? How's the injector shielding wire work on the IDM? I know theres some sort of foil wrapped around the wires inside the harness. Could since the wire I spliced to IDM wire wasn't wrapped in this foil & its not "shielded" have caused that injector to go bad or is it just a coincidence and its probably a UVCH? I appreciate any help with these questions. Thanks.

Last edited by altoids; 01-02-2012 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:05 PM
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That is why you are not suppose to tap into any wires because taping into them incorectly causes problems.

You may be able to remove the wire and insulate the wire to fix the issue depending on how it is tapped.
Most likely by taping into that wire you just cause a high resistance and removing the tap and reinsulating it should correct the problem.
One cylinder not firing properly you will not notice as much and it may have been missing from the start once you put in that remote start.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgassel View Post
That is why you are not suppose to tap into any wires because taping into them incorectly causes problems.

You may be able to remove the wire and insulate the wire to fix the issue depending on how it is tapped.
Most likely by taping into that wire you just cause a high resistance and removing the tap and reinsulating it should correct the problem.
One cylinder not firing properly you will not notice as much and it may have been missing from the start once you put in that remote start.
Going to undo the splicing later today and I'll be sure to insulate it good. Gonna do some ohm testing also.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:18 AM
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Well got around to doing tests in GB tech bulletin 103...pdf.
Here's my results.
Test 1
Injector
#1 - 3.2ohms
#3 - 3.1
#5 - 2.9
#7 - 3.2

Injector
#2 - 3.2ohms
#4 - 3.0
#6 - 4.0
#8 - 3.1

Test 2
IDM Ground circuit L&R banks: Open

Test 3
Injector Ground Shield L&R banks: Open

I removed spliced wire from #5 IDM injector wire & made sure it was protected (better than before I think). Haven't had chance to test drive it yet. Will here in a few. If this doesn't fix it I'm gonna try my old 110 IDM. Those injector wire readings seem normal (tested at IDM connection while I had it disconnected to removesplicedwire). Seems to me by those readings UVCH should be connected.
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:36 PM
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Ok. Decided I would do the "crayon trick" on the exhaust manifolds. Rig hasn't been started in a week so I marked each exhaust manifold with some Orange crayon. Started it up (fired up as usual even thou it sat a week) and watched the crayon marks. Driver side seemed to melt pretty close to being even on all four cylinders. Hit cylinders with IR gun and read 195*+/-on the driver side cylinders after about 2mins of running. Passenger sides a different story. Could see that #3 cylinder was firing (crayon was melting) but #1, #5 & #7 were not melting? Hit the with IR gun #1@65*, #3@175*, #5@95 & #7@110* ( believe #5 & #7 read higher than #1 due to the exhaust flow from #3). Disconnected UVCH harness on the out side and nothing looked burnt.
If I hook my old 110 IDM up (old but I know its good) will I mess it up if the 120 IDM that's installed now has gone bad for some apparent reason (don't want two bad IDM's) or should I just go ahead and take the valve cover off?
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:03 PM
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I ohmed the injectors at the UVCH harness and they all read around 3.0 ohms. Two glowplugs need to be replaced from the readings I got from UVCH. So from the readings it seems the harness is connected under the valve cover (was alittle oil in the connector). I put a new IDM relay in (changed nothing). Put my 110 IDM in and SES didn't come on but cylinder #1, #5 & #7 are still not firing. Put 120 IDM back in and SES light came back on and same cylinders still not firing.
Could 1, 5 & 7 injectors just crap out all at once? Maybe one or two of those injectors weren't working any way and when the other went it set a code and made me notice it (it being more sluggish made me notice also)?
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:35 PM
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Took passenger side valve cover off today. UVCH still had good connection. Decided to start it and watch for oil coming from injectors. All seemed to be having same amount of oil coming from them. Ohmed wires at UVCH harness again same results all were around 3.0.
Decided to disconnect #1 made no change (reconnected), disconnected #3 bogged down (reconnected), disconnected #5 no change (reconnected), disconnected #7 bogged down (reconnected). So how can injectors (apparently #1 & #5) ohm good and have oil coming from them but not be working? #5 is the one Ford tech said showed bad in scan.
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