Dead suddenly, no start! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 12-18-2011, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Dead suddenly, no start!

My sister's '01 7.3L 2wd w/ 180,000 mi. died suddenly when she was driving today. No sputter, no warning, no anything. Now its not even attempting to start. It will turn over and the tach comes up, but no start. No CEL or wait to start. My dad took the CPS off of his old 95 7.3L, put it on the '01, with no change. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 20 Old 12-19-2011, 06:06 AM
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No WTS = PCM (computer) isn't running....

Look in the fusebox for a blown fuse (esp #30-19-22) but, check them ALL Really Carefully!

This time of year, as it gets colder, lots of people have their fuel heater come on for the first time since last Winter. It gets rotted through over the summer and shorts. This blows fuse #30 that also supplies power to your computer. If that's what you find, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the filter housing before you replace it. The fuel heater is something most people don't end-up needing, so don't worry about it for now you change replace it later if you want
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post #3 of 20 Old 12-23-2011, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Bump- 911

Okay, we've been into it for several days. I plan to put a scan tool on it after the holidays, but my source is on leave and won't be back until then. Here's what we've found so far... the IPR is working, the CPS is working, the ICP is working. I checked all fuses and they seem fine. The WTS light DOES come on, along with the other normal dash lights, when the key is turned on. You can hear the fuel pump buzz normally as well. We put a pressure gauge on the HPOP today and it was pushing 2800 psi according to the gauge. I even checked the oil, which is still fresh and full. Fuel seems to be fine.

Any suggestions? Could it be a computer issue? Is there a way to check it?
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post #4 of 20 Old 12-23-2011, 01:27 PM
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At this point you will need to check codes, and possibly do a injector buzz test. Your showing RPM's and should have enough ICP pressure to start. Only other thing I'd check is fuel pressure, just to eliminate it off the list.

It might be more of a IDM issue then a PCM issue. Doing a KOEO and injector buzz test will help narrow it down.
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post #5 of 20 Old 01-03-2012, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled codes today with a borrowed Snap-On scan tool. The KOEO test threw the following codes:

"Fix First: P1293 High Side Open Bank #1 Right; P1294 High Side Open Bank #2 Left"

Can anyone translate this for me? Any instructions on how to do an injector buzz test?
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-03-2012, 04:43 PM
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Both codes are related to the IDM. If you've already checked all the fuses and relays then I would bet the IDM has taken a crap.

Did you try running a injector buzz test? It depends on if you had a scanner capable of doing the test. Not all scanners will do it. With those codes though I would suspect the IDM and probably replace it at this point.
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-03-2012, 04:57 PM
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I had the same problem. And it was the fuel heater fuse. It took several tries to find the fuse. Pull fuse 30 and run a continuity check if you have to.

'97 F250 7.3 PSD
5 SPD
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post #8 of 20 Old 01-04-2012, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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I believe the Snap-On tool I have can do the buzz test. At least it says something about running diagnostics tests. Not sure what to look for even if I can figure out how to run the test. Any help there?

I pulled fuse 30 early on and it checked out.
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post #9 of 20 Old 01-06-2012, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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My dad changed the IDM today. The truck will start, but isn't running right. Do I still need to do an injector buzz test? What am I looking for with the injector test?
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-06-2012, 02:27 PM
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How is it not running right? Does it seem like it's still missing? Is the check engine light on? Have you checked codes?

You might have an issue with the wiring for the injectors, like a short. It may have caused your old IDM to burn up. Best thing to do is run the injector buzz test and see what injectors are affected. You also should see if it logs open or short to ground codes. If it's open codes then it could be something stupid like a UVCH, if it's logging short to ground codes then you could have the wiring shorted out or possibly an injector solenoid shorted.
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