2000 f250 Hard start, shakes till warm - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:38 PM
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2000 f250 Hard start, shakes till warm

I'm new to this forum and this is my first diesel truck, I'm fairly mechanically inclined , just not familiar with this motor and have been learning a lot from this forum! As soon as i bought the truck i did an oil change with some rotella, new glow plugs, and GPR. 190k on the truck. After sitting over night in 60* temps the truck has a hard time starting. It wouldnt start at all hardly before the glow plugs. Consistently starts now with about 3-4 10-15sec cranking sessions. As soon as it starts, it runs rough, rough enough to have the truck rocking. Like half the cylinders arent firing. Barely able to move the truck at this point without stalling it. Problem gets better as I let it sit and warm up , but doesnt completely go away. During the first drive of the day (after warming it up) after getting into second gear and pushing the pedal to the floor the rpms hit about 2400 and like someone flipped a switch its sounds different, has power, and will run and start flawlessly the rest of the day. No codes or CEL. Very confusing to me, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Ben
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:44 AM
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Sounds like the ebpv is shut if you have to get it above 2400, thats normal.. but the rocking isnt.. sounds like a few injectors not firing.. best bet get a cylinder contribution test and see whats firing and whats not.. buzzing the injectors sometimes work but doesnt always(my friend had 3 FRIED ones that buzzed just fine, so i call bs on that being a good test though it has worked for some). anyway.. hope that helped a lil.

The starting issue is odd..
Im definitely gonna say you have some kind of injector issue... check the UVCH's too.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:44 AM
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Thanks for your reply- sorry I took so long, the Army has us pretty busy lately... is the cylinder contribution test something i can do with a scan tool, or will it be a job for ford? On another note, the injectors seemed like a possibility to me too I just didnt want to think about paying $950 for a set , heard they were a problem with the 7.3... I warmed up the motor until the ebpv was open and unplugged it at pedestal (not sure if correct). Slightly easier starting. Is the pressure of the HPOP RPM dependant at all? I was only wondering because it seems like if it were the injectors then as the rpm's increase, the injectors (if they were sticking) would be forced open - which would explain the "sh*tty running ---->throws back in your seat" once a certain rpm is reached. Or I might be way off here.. And like I said, after that initial start up its good all day. *update* Barely started this morning, Cranked about 8-12 times with nothing... no clouds of smoke from exhaust. Cranked high like it was trying, but nothing. Went inside before I fried the starter, came out 20min later and it fired right up. Still ran like sh*t till warm and I got rpms up under load, but now has been fine all day. Also , what are UVCH's? Sorry, I looked for definition but only found references using the abbreviation lol
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:52 PM
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Rough Idle, truck rocking.

I have the same issue with the truck shaking at idle. I'm pretty sure I have a bad CPS (cam position sensor) and just ordered a new one. It's a 25$ part and can be bought from the dealership for around that I've heard. I will replace it as soon as it gets in and let you know how it goes.

People say that if your cranking the engine and get no RPM to register it is more than likely CPS, however it may still start and can still be the problem even if it does register RPM while cranking. It can cause all sorts of issues though, such as no start/rough start, missed injector firing, bad MPG. I would start there.
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:32 PM
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Bad cps

I got my new CPS in last week and it was 100% bad. My truck cranked and cranked upon installing it then a giant puff of white smoke came out when it started. Then it died a few days later while driving down the road and wouldn't start for a while. Needless to say I sent it back. I'm now waiting on a cps from International, twice the price when I finally found one, but it shouldn't have all the problems of a Ford one.

I'm also planning on checking a few other things with the rough idle such as IPR and UVCH.

Good luck.
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:48 PM
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UVCH

Quote:
Originally Posted by benf8706 View Post
what are UVCH's? Sorry, I looked for definition but only found references using the abbreviation lol
UVCH is the Under Valve Cover Harness. The wiring harness that goes under the valve cover can often rub and cause a short in the wiring. It is 110V to 120V (depending on your year) mine was 110V early 99 but i just did the IDM mod and it is now 140V and is dangerous. It rubs on metal and exposes the wires causing a short.

Also if you take it to ford for an injector test they might tell you 3&8 are bad they often test bad even though they might not be.

Last edited by bigyellow; 09-17-2011 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Too many posts didn't want to keep adding them.
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:05 PM
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Thanks for the replies bigyellow, army had me in oklahoma for a while and I just got back. Truck sat the whole time, took the car. Now its a NO start issue lol Took a car to each battery jumping to get it cranking, just a little white smoke- but no start. Two new 1000cca batteries and a cps from the International dealer tomorrow I guess for a start. Checked those wires under the valve cover thoroughly when I replaced glow plugs and didnt notice any damage to their insulation. Did quite a bit of research on this issue and I just dont know where to go after batteries and cps besides new injectors. I'm hoping that the batteries were possibly just going bad since they were left unhooked yet still died. Hope that cps from international ends up working for ya!
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Old 10-15-2011, 04:22 PM
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Got Batteries and international cps in today, same thing. Took about 30min to start. When it finally did it kept dying, throttle made no difference. Finally got it to hold an idle and it was shaking bad like it has a big cam. Held throttle to floor and rpms wouldnt go above 1200, so I let it sit and idle for about 10min. Took it for a drive after warmed up, almost no power-it took all I could do to keep it from stalling. Held throttle to the floor in 2nd once it was moving and after about 15 sec of barely accelerating it reached about 2500rpm. At this point (no joke) it started pulling like someone hit the "NOS" button and has ran fine all day. We'll see what happens when it sits over night. I'm still thinking sticky injectors , but am unsure. Thoughts?
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:15 PM
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02' 7.3, high miles,

Hi Ben, I joined the forum to look for answers to a problem which seems to have similar symptoms as yours.

I have a 7.3 with about 280k miles (fk yeah!) and although it has always started for me, when it is cold it is a dog at certain RPM/gear combinations. For example, if I bring up the RPMs with a light throttle it will shift into third (automatic) and stumble like it is missing on cylinders but if I really lay into it, it seems like it clears its throat and is off to the races. Like yours, when its sorted out it goes like a scalded cat but I worry that some underlying problem is growing.

I am living in La Paz and have not found a diesel lab i would trust to diagnose this issue, I also don't want to just assume it's the injectors so I was reading your posts with great interest and am wondering if you have found resolution.
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:04 AM
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I had the same problem as the original poster --- I had bought a 2002 F250 on eBay with 230k miles. It ran fine warm, but every morning it took forever to start, and then would idle VERY rough and not rev past idle. Then once it warmed up it was like somebody flipped a switch and it ran perfectly. "Cleared Throat and off to the races" is a good analogy--- exactly the same issue for sure.

I took it to a supposedly good Ford diesel mechanic who tried a bunch of things, glow plugs, sensors, wiring, but then finally did a compression test and said the engine had low compression in a couple cylinders... when would supposedly explain the poor starting when cold, not enough compression to fire things. Then once the engine got warm enough to compress/fire properly, it could run ok. Apparently the air box had a crack in it and it was a Texas truck so it got "dusted".

That was his theory... so I got a new shortblock from Ron's performance, rebuilt the heads, bought some new alliant injectors (my old ones were pretty bad, something about poppet valve clearance), and am putting it all back together. I HOPE one or all of those things fix it!!

I'll post my results when I get it all together (in a week or two)...

Not that anyone cares, but since this is sort of a project/hobby truck, I went ahead and used forged rods, arp head studs, comp 910 valve springs and had RCD modified the injectors slightly (165cc or something). I figure now's the time to do that stuff.

In summary: A good starting point to your diagnosis may be a compression test.

Last edited by Novicaine; 11-25-2011 at 05:10 AM.
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