2001 PSD Cranks Won't Start - Please Help

[rlpatte]

I realize this topic is pretty well covered but I have literally spent all day today reviewing the postings, running to the truck, trying the diagnostic/remedy - all to no avail.

What happened:
Son picked truck up from shop where they did $2K worth of work on ball joints, inner seals, etc. Truck died on the way home - Check Engine Light came on, battery light came on, etc. Truck progressively lost power until he got it off the road and safely parked.
Wife had the truck towed home.
Now that the truck is home the check engine light is off and there are no codes.

After spending $2K I've got to dive into it myself.

What it's symptoms are:
Cranks but won't start.
I get some RPMs while cranking, but not many (maybe a couple hundred) on the tach.
Checked all fuses under the dash - all good.
Can't tell about the dash lights, etc. since it's daytime. Will check tonight.
Wait to Start light comes on when turn key on - goes out after a while like usual.

What I've done:
Replaced the CPS (easy & cheap) - still won't start.
Replaced the fuel filter - fuel filter is chock full of fuel. Still won't start.
Checked the oil level in the HPOP - measured out at 3/4" from top of reservoir. This was replaced about 15,000 miles ago. Still won't start.
Checked the fuel pump - laid under the truck as my wife turned the key on - heard the pump engage. Sounds like it is working. Still won't start.
Checked conditions of batteries - seem to be charged. Cranks but still won't start.
Disconnected the ICP sensor (on the driver's side head behind the alternator) - check engine light came on. Truck cranks but still won't start.

What I've concluded:
This is like finding a needle in a haystack
The glow plugs are OK since the Wait to Start light comes on.
The fuel pump must be OK since the fuel filter is completely full.
The HPOP must be OK since a) My oil level is fill and b) the HPOP reservoir seems to check out (3/4" from top).

What I suspect:
Something may be going on with the injectors??? Could it be the IPR or IDM?
I very well could be wrong about the glow plugs.
I very well could be wrong about the fuel pump (seems strange that the fuel filter would be full - after checking multiple time - though).
I need help (I don't suspect this - I kinow this)

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I simply cannot bring it back to the shop. First, I'd have to have it towed. Secondly, I can't afford it. And lastly, it's now personal.

Thanks in advance for any advise/suggestions. I don't know the first thing about checking out the IPR or IDM, if that is even where I should be looking.

[DND58]

Read the battery voltage while cranking. Truck needs somewhere around 10.5 volts and clean connections to start. Any smoke when cranking? HPOP level is good, what about crankcase? Any mods, chip/tuner?

[rlpatte]

Batteries are at about 11 V cranking. The truck does have a chip but I'm not sure what it is. I bought it used. Crankcase oil level is full. No smoke when cranking.

Thanks for your help.

[DND58]

When you replaced the fuel filter, you drained it, correct. Then heard pump with wifey at the key, and now full. Good volts at batts. The truck losing power sounds fuel related. Might try opening the filter drain valve and have wifey turn key again. Should be strong stream of fuel. If the CEL came on, there should be codes. How did you determine no codes. Last, I'd pull the chip, with no keys in ignition and see from there. Hopefully more knowledge will be along soon.

[usnavyad]

First step you have no clue on the chip or what tune its on disconnect the bAtterysand pull the chip reinstall the ecu then connect the battery and try at that point you doing 2 things wiping the cel memory and putting the truck back to the way it should be running stock see what happens then you have a scanner right you said no code

[Marine77]

This is more of a question than a suggestion but the fact that the HPOP has oil in it doesn't mean that its working right? No pressure, no fuel getting to the cylinders!