rusty oil pan - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-08-2011, 02:07 PM
Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 57
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
rusty oil pan

I have a nasty rusty oil pan on my 02. Should have noticed this sooner. It looked like it was only one spot but is actually rusting under the paint . As of now its not leaking. I was told the engine has to come out of the truck to change it. So what options are there in terms of paint or coatings to seal the pan, maybe stop it from rusting all the way thru?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 07-08-2011, 03:30 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 362
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I also have this problem and will be doing the job sometime this summer. I've researched and will be trying the KBS rust paint. A few members on here have used it and had good results.

They sell a cheap sample kit which apparently has enough paint for about 2 or 3 pans, so that is perfect if you don't want to buy a ton of the stuff.
KBS System Sampler - Stop Rust Paint - KBS Coatings - RustSeal

Here are some pics of the finished product on a 7.3 oil pan -



Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 07-08-2011, 03:48 PM
Banned
 

Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 4,240
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 5 reviews
Send a message via Skype™ to ToMang07
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demo250 View Post
I also have this problem and will be doing the job sometime this summer. I've researched and will be trying the KBS rust paint. A few members on here have used it and had good results.


I need to do mine this summer. I need to get a grinder sanding disc and some paint, just debating whether to wait till I need the oil changed and do it then, (as well as add the fumoto valve, ) or do it now and just work around everything. Getting done this summer, either way.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 07-08-2011, 07:25 PM
Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 57
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
rust

Looks like a good product. Im a bit concerned about sanding too much and going right thru it! I have heard of a thing called rust bullet, still looking in to it. I guess this is a common problem?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 07-08-2011, 08:19 PM
Banned
 

Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 4,240
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 5 reviews
Send a message via Skype™ to ToMang07
Quote:
Originally Posted by renoduckman View Post
Looks like a good product. Im a bit concerned about sanding too much and going right thru it! I have heard of a thing called rust bullet, still looking in to it. I guess this is a common problem?
If you live in the winter-belt, Yup!
Attached Thumbnails
rusty oil pan-picture-018.jpg   rusty oil pan-picture-020.jpg  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 07-08-2011, 08:56 PM
Banned
 

Join Date: May 2009
Location: (518) on the boarder of MA+CT
Posts: 1,023
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to PowerstrokeTech82787
7.3 oil pans are EASY to replace! I love doing them, they pay like 12 or 14 hrs to do, and i can do them in 3hrs. taking my sweet time.

All you have to do is get a new pickup tube gasket, Grey RTV silicone from ford, a caulk gun, oil pan, tranny jack, lift, and your in business. I pull the trannys out, transfercase connected, then take 3 dead man jacks or if i cant use them, i use 1 2x12 for the front crank pulley and 2 4x4 posts on the dog ears on the back of the block. lower the truck til the engine cant go any higher, in the mean time the oil pan is curing from the ford high temp coating i apply to it, and then i zip the pan bolts out, go up in with a flex head ratchet wrench and remove the pickup tube nuts, drop the pickup tube in the pan pull the pan out. take my die grinder to the block with a cookie wheel, scuff it up nice, and brake clean the hell out of it, put a sander wheel on my die grinder and scuff the pan rails to make the rtv have something to stick better to instead of a painted smooth surface, spooge it up, get the pickup tube gasket on, put the pickup tube in the pan, put the pan up on the cross member, put the pickup tube in first, then the pan and run the bolts home. by the time your done putting the tranny back in and everything else, the RTV should be cured IF its above 70* ambient temp. If its cooler than that i let them sit over night with no oil in them.

And rear main seals. LOVE doing them. Rear main seals, rear timing cover reseal oil pan they all pay BIG money and are fast easy jobs. C tech work.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 07-08-2011, 10:55 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 2,254
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 7 reviews

awesome.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 07-09-2011, 08:24 PM
Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 57
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
ouch

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToMang07 View Post
If you live in the winter-belt, Yup!
That is ugly> Looks worse then mine, but mine has the rust where it curves from the bottom to the side.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 07-09-2011, 11:11 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 362
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by renoduckman View Post
That is ugly> Looks worse then mine, but mine has the rust where it curves from the bottom to the side.
Really? I thought his looked pretty good. Haha, mine must be worse than I thought. Mine is like yours though, rust on the curve. I think it's close to being rusted right through in a few spots. I'm scared to pull it all off and see what's left. lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 07-10-2011, 01:14 AM
Member
 

Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 30
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeTech82787 View Post
7.3 oil pans are EASY to replace! I love doing them, they pay like 12 or 14 hrs to do, and i can do them in 3hrs. taking my sweet time.

All you have to do is get a new pickup tube gasket, Grey RTV silicone from ford, a caulk gun, oil pan, tranny jack, lift, and your in business. I pull the trannys out, transfercase connected, then take 3 dead man jacks or if i cant use them, i use 1 2x12 for the front crank pulley and 2 4x4 posts on the dog ears on the back of the block. lower the truck til the engine cant go any higher, in the mean time the oil pan is curing from the ford high temp coating i apply to it, and then i zip the pan bolts out, go up in with a flex head ratchet wrench and remove the pickup tube nuts, drop the pickup tube in the pan pull the pan out. take my die grinder to the block with a cookie wheel, scuff it up nice, and brake clean the hell out of it, put a sander wheel on my die grinder and scuff the pan rails to make the rtv have something to stick better to instead of a painted smooth surface, spooge it up, get the pickup tube gasket on, put the pickup tube in the pan, put the pan up on the cross member, put the pickup tube in first, then the pan and run the bolts home. by the time your done putting the tranny back in and everything else, the RTV should be cured IF its above 70* ambient temp. If its cooler than that i let them sit over night with no oil in them.

And rear main seals. LOVE doing them. Rear main seals, rear timing cover reseal oil pan they all pay BIG money and are fast easy jobs. C tech work.
That sounds much easier than removing the cab!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors