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My cold start thread
This thread will be used to document my efforts to determine the reason my truck has to be plugged in to start when cold.
Truck would not start when delivered by transport company. 25 degrees out and all it would was turn over with no starting. I check engine metal temps and oil pan temp, all were 25*. Used a generator to plug it in and put a battery charger on it. An hour later metal temps in the area of the water pump were increasing, with a shot of starting fluid it started but ran very bad. Plugged it in over night, outside temp 29*, engine metal temps in the area of the water pump were over 100*, the oil pan was 25*. Checked GPR, first time it did not energize, second attemp it did energize, engine started (this was the start I posted vid on in other thread). Engine ran better than night before but EBPV still seemed to actuate too much. Replaced GPR and found EBPV sensor tube broken. Did not plug in for the night. Outside temp 18*, engine metal temps 18*, oil pan 18*, HPOP resevoir 18*, verified GPR energized and tried start, it turned over but did not start. I have plugged the block heater in and will get temps and try in a few hours. After reading so many other threads on the cold start issue, I tend to believe the issue (other than GP issues) may be to do with oil viscosity in the HPOP resevoir at the time of start. I am looking to see the resevoir temp is impacted by block heater and if that alone changes it from no start to start. Last edited by angcobra; 01-14-2011 at 02:43 PM. |
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You've tested the Relay, but have you "ohmed-out" the Glow Plugs themselves to know that they're all OK?
Troubleshooting GPR & GP's |
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checked metal temps at 62*, verified GPR energized, engine started.
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Temp at 28* this morning, metal temps at 28*, verified GPs energized, turns over but no start.
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Even if you're only running a couple of GlowPlugs you could see .9v of a voltage drop (it all depends on your batteries) When they all are running you're pushing Over 150Amps.
You didn't start this morning, was this also "unplugged"? You sure you're batteries are all they should be? How much cranking did you get out of them? Do you wait a whole minute, with the key ON, after the WTS goes off before you try to start? I'm afraid the next thing you must do is to determine if the GlowPlugs are all good..... |
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The batteries will turn it for a long time. The other night I had maybe 20 start attemps. I did wait till wts light was off, and made sure GPR was energized. Even made a second attempt. It sped up like it was going to start but just never could. |
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In cold conditions, especially if you're not starting well, you want to wait a whole minute after the light goes out. The WTS is an idiot light and No indication of how long the GPs are activated (they actually run for up to 2 mins) Do this each time you attempt to start.
That's NOT your problem though, you have other issues I'm sure, just a good habit to get into.... |
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Started checking individual glow plugs, passenger side, all 4 were bad, 2 complete open, the other 2 about 15 Mega ohms. Will check the drivers side today.
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