2000 7.3 F350 Hard cold Starting - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:27 AM
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2000 7.3 F350 Hard cold Starting

I have been reading for a while and testing as much as I can figure out and I have decided to start a tread to see if I can get some help in pointing me in the right direction.

The truck is a 2000 F350 7.3 it has 300,000 miles on it. We are the second owners and bought it with this problem (I say bought more like brother-in-law deal)
The problem is hard starting "cold" starting.
Symptoms are when not plugged in 3 to 4 tries to start "romps" till warm (or the batteries go dead).
When plugged in starts fine no romps runs smooth.

What I have done so far is replace one battery, all glow plugs, tested relay (works and passes current for close to 1 min when key is turned on)
Tested all glow plug wires (up to valve cover) with ohm meter all zeroed out. Tested wires and new glow plugs under valve cover all were at 1.2 ohm+/-.

I am thinking I need to start testing the fuel injectors and oil system. I have been reading up on how to do this but still have some things I can't figure out. I have a scan tool that will do the buzz test not contribution test and I am not sure if it will read real time data on the oil pressure yet. I am waiting on a USB adapter for it b/c my old laptop died and my new one does not have the old com port on it.
I got 2 negatives going for me right now, this is the first diesel I have worked on and my first ford to own. So go easy on me! I will say this I really like this truck and still has some decent power considering it has 300,000 on it. I can only image how much power it had when it was new.
Anyway I will appreciate any advice

Richard
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:45 AM
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A thinner Synthetic Engine Oil could probably solve your problem if you currently have 15W-40 Dino in it now
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:24 PM
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I am not sure what weight is in there but glad you mentioned it. I was thinking of changing the oil this weekend. About what weight?
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:47 PM
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Most guys use the 5w-40 I think, but there are others who swear by 0w-40 too

I guess it depends on where you are located and how may miles you're going to drive in the winter...
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:20 PM
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Here comes the first of many dump questions. Is the HPOP reservoir connected to the engine old system? Does it use the same weight oil?
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICHE View Post
Here comes the first of many dump questions. Is the HPOP reservoir connected to the engine old system? Does it use the same weight oil?
no question is dumb, yes it is the same oil as the oil in your crank. the reservoir is fed by the low pressure oil pump that sucks oil out of you oil pan. your HPOP is a high pressure low volume pump......or the stock ones are. this is why the low pressure oil pump can keep up with it.

this is why it is so important to use good oil and change it often a heui system. cumming and duramax not so much.


as for your cold start problem. when you get a scan tool hooked up take the truck out on the highway after its warmed up. get up to about 60mph and floor it to about 80mpg at least. wile your doing this have your scan tool with you and look at the ICP PSI. when you floor if it will spike to somewhere around 3000psi +/- and then drop and should level out and stay at around some number in the 2000psi range. mine leveled out at about 2750psi, and that really good for an old 15*. i think 2500psi and above is good. 2100psi is alright, not really that good. and below that i might replace the hpop.

that is how you test your hpop. at wot


as for crank test for your hpop. turn your key on and look at the ICP psi, then crank. it takes about 400psi to start a 7.3 let us know what your get.

you know that the wait to start light is just and idiot light right? when it goes off your glow plugs are still being powered more than likely. i think they stay on for at least 120 seconds, i think. so what im saying is when the light goes off dont crank, wait another 20-40 second and then crank. see what happens.


also the stock GPR are 100% gunk if you ask me. they dont last and when they work they sometimes dont work 100%. i would recommend a stancor of wester snow plow realay. look them up on here and see what your think.
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:05 PM
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Thanks, That was some of the information I need to know about the hpop I have been reading how it works and just needed all the pieces of the puzzle put together.
I was going to switch to synthetic and saw somewhere that I needed to vacuum the oil out the reservoir, but wouldn't that leave oil oil in the injectors?
When I get the scantool working I plan on trying to read that data real time.
Does anyone use this software on the board?
OBD-2 Vehicle Explorer Scan Tool Browser
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:15 PM
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"you know that the wait to start light is just and idiot light right" lol I didn't know that before... but I figured that out when I was testing the GPR I saw that is was staying hot longer than the light. I figured it couldn't hurt to wait for the glow plugs to get warmer.
I will look into that relay as well I have seen a bunch of post about putting in better one than stock but wasn't real worried b/c I thought mine tested fine.
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Old 01-06-2011, 09:27 PM
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my 03 7.3 would romp so hard it would die i put 5w-30 oil in it no more romps even when i dont plug it in as a matter of fact the oil made so much difference i havent plugged the truck in since i did the oil change
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:35 AM
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First thing, about the scanner sw, NO it's not for our trucks. You need a professional scanner w/custom sw to scan because they are not, strictly, OBD-II. Save your pennies, invest in an AutoEngunity when you can. It's a heck of a tool you'll get a lifetime worth of use out of

Now for Bill "the Boob" Hewitt's ridiculous theory about the HPOP oil not circulating with the engine oil, FORGET IT.... He's a clueless Rube without an understanding of how the system works. You can, if it makes you feel good, drain & refill the reservoir if you want (but, again, just to make YOURSELF feel good) but that oil is constantly drained and being refilled as the engine is running so your new oil will get there with just some driving. No one who knows these engines subscribes to this nonsense
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