Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Front main seal oil leak and replacemnt
When I searched here other day I couldn't find anything on front seal replacement . I opreated a shop till five years ago and never had replaced a
front seal on 7.3 and was worried about the difficulty .
Well it's about as easy as replacing the water pump and requires only a couple more tools. I would post pictures but didn't take none .
To start with my 7.3 is a 99 model with 395,000 on it and several thousand idle hours , I run a hotshot with it .
A couple days ago I awoke to a puddle of oil under my truck after looking I surmised the front seal was shot .
I called my local ford dealer and got the seal kit which includes the seal and a wear sleeve for the vibration damper , you will also want to get the oil pump O-ring . Total cost around 30 dollars .
I started by unbolting and moving to the side the coolant tank I had to remove the small top hose on it to aid in the reloacation of tank . I then
loosened the fan hub nut ( I use a big punch and hammer ) They make a special wrench for it . I then remove top radiator hose and stick rag in top neck and reposition hose . I then remove shroud top two bolts and remove fan and shroud .
Now you will remove the crakshaft bolt , I used a deep 15/16th socket and really long pull hande . I positioned a L foot bar in opening of damper and bar tip against right frame rail this keeps pulley from turning while loosening bolt .
Now you will use a standard four slot puller for pulling the damper . (mine came off real easy) You will also need to remove the serpetine belt before completely removing damper . The round protrusion on the front of crankshat is the low pressure oil pump . You will take out the 4 bolts holding it on and gently work at edge to get pump to come off . it's held in place
by two small locating pins once these pins break loose the cover will slide off .
You can now slide the oil pump gears off it you want to inpsect them . Just make sure to put them back on facing right direction . The word damper will be stamped on both pieces or a prick mark make sure these face foward .
Now to replace the seal just tap old one out from rear with screwdriver and aplly sealer to edge of new one and tape in till fully seated . remove pump housing o-ring and install new one . Next lay damper on block of wood and get a small chisel or other tool under edge and pry old sleeve off damper .
clean and inspect damper sleeve area put a light amount of seal or locktite on inside of sleeve position with beveled edge facing up and gently tap on
with great care ( I used a giant socket and brass drift ) once fully installed you are ready to reassemble the truck . first put oil pump gears on shaft with makings facing out , next locate pins and start housing on and install bolts and torque to 15ft pds. ( snug with 3/8 ratchet) . Now position damper
on shaft and tap a little with hammer the washer and bolt should start easily and tighten down with ease . After that position the L foot bar oppisite and tighten down crankshaft bolt to 212 ft pds (I use good pull with long pull handle) now reinstall belt shroud and and fan . Teat run and check for leaks
total time about 2-1/2 hours . You can use a air wrench on crank bolt I just didn't want to remove radiator and there are special tools Ford states you need but who has them ? I posted this so the average reader will know they more than likely can do this in a weekend . I worked this also in manner to use the least amount of time and tools as everyone is limited in both nowdays .