Coolant leak on 7.3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant leak on 7.3

Ok I didn't get a 7.3 to have coolant leaks haha but I woke up this morning and found a puddle if coolant under the front ofthe engine. Looks like is coming from behind or above the crank pulley. I didn't have time to find out where but my guess is the water pump. Truck only has 91k on it so it shouldn't have gone out yet. Any ideas

E99 F250 7.3l CC SB 4x4 Lariat,8.5" lift, dual reservoir shocks toyo my 37's gear alloy 20x12's,TW chip,5in exhaust,DIY intake,BTS trans,HPX, frx gauges,Powerslot rotors w/hawk pads,Tint,08 emblem vents,Custom paint,05 Harley front w/ custom grill, shaved 08 step gate and tinted tails, spray-in bedliner
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post #2 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 09:07 AM
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I wouldn't be surprised if it is you water pump... Mine went out at 120K two months after I bought it...

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post #3 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Damn that's what I was afraid of. From what I've read here. An internal seal in the pump goes which causes it to drip. Which is what mine is doing. Only a slow leak. But I'm scared to drive it.

E99 F250 7.3l CC SB 4x4 Lariat,8.5" lift, dual reservoir shocks toyo my 37's gear alloy 20x12's,TW chip,5in exhaust,DIY intake,BTS trans,HPX, frx gauges,Powerslot rotors w/hawk pads,Tint,08 emblem vents,Custom paint,05 Harley front w/ custom grill, shaved 08 step gate and tinted tails, spray-in bedliner
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post #4 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I got a new pump and I'm going to try and get it done this afternoon. Any thing I should be careful of. I've never replaced one on a SD. I'm assuming I have to pulle the radiator and intercooler?

E99 F250 7.3l CC SB 4x4 Lariat,8.5" lift, dual reservoir shocks toyo my 37's gear alloy 20x12's,TW chip,5in exhaust,DIY intake,BTS trans,HPX, frx gauges,Powerslot rotors w/hawk pads,Tint,08 emblem vents,Custom paint,05 Harley front w/ custom grill, shaved 08 step gate and tinted tails, spray-in bedliner
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post #5 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 02:33 PM
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dont break any of the bolts on the water pump,i did and it was a mess!! it should be pretty straight forward though.It prolly is leaking from the weep hole,which is letting you know the internal seal has went.My buddy drove his like that for a month but ive heard they could go that same day as well.soak those bolts in pb blaster,goodluck>>>>brian

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post #6 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 02:40 PM
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better than mine.. it went and just dumped a ton of coolant everywhere. had to get it on my lil car trailer and take it over to a buds.
change to an ELC Coolant if you already havent and the only thing you need to take off is the fan and stuff around it haha. not hard at all.
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post #7 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 04:25 PM
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Yeah no rad or intercooler removal, nd you can use an air chisel to knock the fan nut loose...
and mine went out at 110,000 miles. Two weeks after I bought it - I was planning a coolant change so it just hurried things along.
Scott

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post #8 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ok well my @&@)$$!"**}% fan nut won't budge. I cant get a good hold on the pulley it just keeps slipping. And now the damn wrench slipped and I sliced my hand pretty good on the fan. Needless to say I'm pissed off. Any other methods of getting that nut off? Seems like everytime with this truck what should take 3 hours takes 10 and what should take a day takes a week. I NEED my truck by tomorow afternoon so it's got to be fixed.

E99 F250 7.3l CC SB 4x4 Lariat,8.5" lift, dual reservoir shocks toyo my 37's gear alloy 20x12's,TW chip,5in exhaust,DIY intake,BTS trans,HPX, frx gauges,Powerslot rotors w/hawk pads,Tint,08 emblem vents,Custom paint,05 Harley front w/ custom grill, shaved 08 step gate and tinted tails, spray-in bedliner
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post #9 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 05:41 PM
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Use an air hammer with a chisel point on it. Turn the engine... see which way the fan turns and then knock the nut the opposite direction with the air chisel. Works like a charm. I was reluctant at first too, but it was the ONLY way I had to get mine back up and running in a tight timeline. Good luck!
Scott

2000 XLT F-250 7.3 Crew Cab Auto w/Transgo shift kit
Zoodad
4" MBRP turbo back exhaust w/muffler
PHP TS chip - 65 tow/80DD/120 race
Stancor relay
Caterpillar ELC coolant
Broken-into door lock mod
6637 filter
285/75/16 Hankook ATM's
2" Rough Country add a leafs all around
In the Driveway:
2000 VW TDI Beetle, chipped! (For the wife)
1995 Ford Mustang 3.8 (SOLD!)
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post #10 of 19 Old 11-02-2010, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyP5947 View Post
Use an air hammer with a chisel point on it. Turn the engine... see which way the fan turns and then knock the nut the opposite direction with the air chisel. Works like a charm. I was reluctant at first too, but it was the ONLY way I had to get mine back up and running in a tight timeline. Good luck!
Scott
Yep , air chisel . Put it on the top of the nut aiming from drivers to passenger side . Just right on the corner of the nut , usually a very short blast will get it free and then it just spins off by hand .

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