Help with EBPV, disconnected

[dog3434]

Ok, I've been having problems with my EBPV sticking. Today I figured out why. The arm for the actuator isn't connected to the butterfly valve. Following some advice I recieved from here and FTW I was going to see if I could either disconnect the actuator arm and tie the valve open or disconnect the wiring from the turbo. I removed the air box and intake hose to get a better look and found the valve disconnected from the arm completely. It looks like the arm rotated slightly and pulled away from the valve.

When the engine was cold I could easily move the valve back and forth. I wasn't sure which was open or which was closed so I tied a long wire to it so I could actuate it myself. Well, the engine started fine but after it was started the butterfly valve would not move. I turned it off before the downpipe was too hot to get near and couldn't move the valve by hand either. What the heck is going on?

The valve gets stuck at times and won't open so I get low power and high EGTs. Eventually it will open but last week I had one trip where it would not. I figure what ever is causing the valve to stick after the engine starts is probably holding the valve in what ever position it is when the engine starts. There's no actuator attached so I doubt it as anything to do with it unless its just hitting the arm and causing it to move.

Why won't the valve move after the engine starts? What is the natural state of the valve, open or closed? Will the exhaust flow cause the valve to open or close? Which way is the valve opened. With the small peg, that the arm attaches, near the turbo or away? Any help, ideas or explainations are appreciated.

[00powerstrokin]

it needs to be towards the turbo. i had the same problem with mine so i hooked into the wiring harness on the turbo and put it on a switch so i can use it as an exhaust brake. all you need is a 10k ohm resister and a switch. it works very well now. i can turn it on and off as needed. i turn it on to warm up faster, and use it for a brake.

[00powerstrokin]

if you connect the actuator arm to the butterfly and dissconect the wiring harness from the front of the turbo pedistal the valve will stay open and you will not nedd to tie it open.

[dog3434]

I couldn't get the arm to attach because the vibration has caused it to turn and I couldn't get it the right length. Since I was going to have to pull everyting off the engine to get to it anyway I went ahead and pulled the turbo and gutted the EBPV completely. Since the arm has been disconnected for a while now I didn't see the need to remove it so I just left it as is. I plugged the hole with a 1/4 inch plug and put her back to gether. No, it really wasn't that easy but I did git-er-dun. Tomorrow I'll take her out for a spin and see how she does.

[00powerstrokin]

thats even better i think you gain 23% more flow by gutting it completely

[dog3434]

I can't believe how much this helped. The truck is running 200 degrees cooler and I can feel the power difference. This is great! I can't believe I didn't do this sooner.

[dirtyblackhoe]

does anyone have pictures to show exactly what to do here?

[bob00stroke]

this video should help

Gutting the Turbo Pedistal

[elm302]

Originally Posted by dog3434

I can't believe how much this helped. The truck is running 200 degrees cooler and I can feel the power difference. This is great! I can't believe I didn't do this sooner.

wow lowered the egts that much what about boost numbers any better

[Quickhorse]

It says to wire the valve open . . . if removed/gutted do you still need to wire it open? Does this just mean running a loop wire to original harness? Or do you need to do something different? Did you gut the header tube that goes to the sensor in the front of engine and plug that also?