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Old 03-20-2010, 05:19 PM
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Problems and pictures.

Ok, so I recently traded an 03 ranger for a 1999 F350 with the 7.3 The tag on the engine says it was produced 03/dec/98, so I assume its a 99.5-03 version of the engine? Its a dually, with the automatic, it has 178K miles on it. New water pump, tensioner, power steering pump, ect..

The issues im having.

1. Takes a while to start sometimes. If I let the truck sit for a couple days, when I come back out to start it, I have to crank it 3 times for about 10-15 secs a try to get it to start. Once the truck has run for a bit and warmed up, it fires right up. If it sits a day, and its not a cold day, it will start after about 10-15 secs of cranking. Yes, it runs rough while cold, however once it warms up, its nice and smooth with plenty of power.. Pulled apart a 20K lb tow strap with ease.. (Sigh, one more thing to go buy again, guess I'll remove the stump the right way this time...)

If its cold (Under 30 degrees.), it has to be plugged in. Yes I know some of the glowplugs are bad. I followed the instructions I found here and tested em. Plus the big whitish grey cloud in the mornings gives it away. 10K+ resistance = not good. I plan on replacing thoes shortly (When I take everything else apart to do the turbo.

2. Please take a look at the pic, and let me know if you have any ideas as to what might cause the turbo impeller to look like this. I found a new impeller on ebay for $35. Other than the impeller, am I going to need anything else when I take the turbo apart? Can the gaskets/o-rings be reused as long as they are intact and in good shape? The casing for the turbo looks pretty new. Also, any advice on where the missing peices might be, or a good way to REMOVE them from the intake system so they never get sucked through the engine? Also, how can you tell when the "soft" hoses for the turbo system need to be replaced, and is there an inexpensive alternative? (Anyone have a spare set lying around after upgrading to an expensive set?)

3. I've read a bit on the forums about injector buzz tests. Do you need a special tool or a scanner to do that, or can that be done somehow without a scan tool?

4. Im not looking to build a race truck out of this, and I havent finished browsing the forums, but if im taking all this stuff apart, does anyone have any advice for things that can be done to improve fuel mileage while I have everything apart? Currently, I think im getting about 18mpg.

5. I am thinking of putting in a 2000w power inverter, and running 0/0 gauge power wire. The wire I have is almost like welding cable, flexible and very fine strands, you can cut it with scissors if you go slow. Would it be a good idea or even worth it to replace any existing battery cables with the stuff as well?

I appreciate the help guys. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 03-20-2010, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morndenkainen View Post
Ok, so I recently traded an 03 ranger for a 1999 F350 with the 7.3 The tag on the engine says it was produced 03/dec/98, so I assume its a 99.5-03 version of the engine? Its a dually, with the automatic, it has 178K miles on it. New water pump, tensioner, power steering pump, ect..

The issues im having.

1. Takes a while to start sometimes. If I let the truck sit for a couple days, when I come back out to start it, I have to crank it 3 times for about 10-15 secs a try to get it to start. Once the truck has run for a bit and warmed up, it fires right up. If it sits a day, and its not a cold day, it will start after about 10-15 secs of cranking. Yes, it runs rough while cold, however once it warms up, its nice and smooth with plenty of power.. Pulled apart a 20K lb tow strap with ease.. (Sigh, one more thing to go buy again, guess I'll remove the stump the right way this time...)

If its cold (Under 30 degrees.), it has to be plugged in. Yes I know some of the glowplugs are bad. I followed the instructions I found here and tested em. Plus the big whitish grey cloud in the mornings gives it away. 10K+ resistance = not good. I plan on replacing thoes shortly (When I take everything else apart to do the turbo.
Sounds like you have need a new set of glow plugs and or check your glow plug relay
2. Please take a look at the pic, and let me know if you have any ideas as to what might cause the turbo impeller to look like this. I found a new impeller on ebay for $35. Other than the impeller, am I going to need anything else when I take the turbo apart? Can the gaskets/o-rings be reused as long as they are intact and in good shape? The casing for the turbo looks pretty new. Also, any advice on where the missing peices might be, or a good way to REMOVE them from the intake system so they never get sucked through the engine? Also, how can you tell when the "soft" hoses for the turbo system need to be replaced, and is there an inexpensive alternative? (Anyone have a spare set lying around after upgrading to an expensive set?)
That is from dusting (dirt particles getting sucked through your intake. $35 is not a bad price. While you are at it I would replace all the gasqets. The missing pieces likley came off in the form of dust and have already exited the exhaust. If the boots (soft hoses) have oil seeping through them then it is time to replace them.
3. I've read a bit on the forums about injector buzz tests. Do you need a special tool or a scanner to do that, or can that be done somehow without a scan tool?
You will need a good scanner
4. Im not looking to build a race truck out of this, and I havent finished browsing the forums, but if im taking all this stuff apart, does anyone have any advice for things that can be done to improve fuel mileage while I have everything apart? Currently, I think im getting about 18mpg.
Without Tunes, exhaust and an intake just keeping your foot out of the throttle will get you the best mileage.
5. I am thinking of putting in a 2000w power inverter, and running 0/0 gauge power wire. The wire I have is almost like welding cable, flexible and very fine strands, you can cut it with scissors if you go slow. Would it be a good idea or even worth it to replace any existing battery cables with the stuff as well?
The Factory wires are pretty tough and unless there is visable damage I would just leave it alone.
I appreciate the help guys. Thanks.
My answers in red

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Old 03-20-2010, 06:48 PM
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Ok, by oil seeping through them, do you mean absorbed into the silicone and comes out when you squeeze the wall? Are there any better types of hose to use so it doesnt happen again? Or atleast a cheap place to buy them? Funds are kinda tight right now.

Also, what can you reccomend to help prevent "dusting" from ever occuring again? Should I get a different style of air filter? Someone reccomended a cone style that would eliminate the "edges" around the air box as a possible culprit, however I know I take better care of my vehicles than the previous owner did, so im not terribly worried about the filter getting clogged and sucking in from around the edges. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure....
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:56 PM
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I do believe that Dieselsite.com offers an upgraded boot set but I do not remember what they cost.

The Napa fleet filter (part #3766 or something like that) is a very popular upgrade for your intake and I have not heard people having issues with dusting while running them.
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Old 03-20-2010, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Ronning View Post
I do believe that Dieselsite.com offers an upgraded boot set but I do not remember what they cost.

The Napa fleet filter (part #3766 or something like that) is a very popular upgrade for your intake and I have not heard people having issues with dusting while running them.
part# 6637
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Old 03-20-2010, 07:08 PM
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Ya that one! Thanks Dalton
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:03 AM
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Yeah, i saw the hoses, only problem with em is the price tag, being out of a job sucks, anyone got a spare $108 for em? Anyways, Back to the original questions though, is having to crank the engine 2-3 times for 10-15 seconds a crank normal after the truck has been sitting a couple of days? Also, would it be ok to drive the truck for a bit longer knowing now what the impeller looks like? The impeller's made it quite a while (I'd imagine) to get to where its at now.

Thanks for the advice on that napa filter, when I can afford it, I'll definatley go get one of thoes. Im guessing a short peice of PVC or 4" exhaust tube would work well as a coupler for the factory air hose. (of course i'll check the measurement first.)

Also, what inexpensive tunes would you guys reccomend? I guess im already good at keeping my foot out of the pedal, which is why I've been quite happy with my fuel mileage so far, but if there's room for improvement and fuel prices are going back up, I'd like to get every MPG I can. Anyone have an idea what I could expect to see MPG wise after a "tune"? Im still not too sure how thoes work. I've heard some replace an AIT sensor, while others plug into the thing that controls the injectors, and yet other types replace a chip in the PCM... Which ones work, which ones dont?

Thanks for the help guys, its appreciated.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morndenkainen View Post
Yeah, i saw the hoses, only problem with em is the price tag, being out of a job sucks, anyone got a spare $108 for em? Anyways, Back to the original questions though, is having to crank the engine 2-3 times for 10-15 seconds a crank normal after the truck has been sitting a couple of days? Also, would it be ok to drive the truck for a bit longer knowing now what the impeller looks like? The impeller's made it quite a while (I'd imagine) to get to where its at now.

Also, what inexpensive tunes would you guys reccomend? I guess im already good at keeping my foot out of the pedal, which is why I've been quite happy with my fuel mileage so far, but if there's room for improvement and fuel prices are going back up, I'd like to get every MPG I can. Anyone have an idea what I could expect to see MPG wise after a "tune"? Im still not too sure how thoes work. I've heard some replace an AIT sensor, while others plug into the thing that controls the injectors, and yet other types replace a chip in the PCM... Which ones work, which ones dont?

Thanks for the help guys, its appreciated.
I know those boots are high so if you cant get a set right now try taking them all off and cleaning them up. Spray them with hairspray before you put them back on and make sure they are all tight.

Tunes are not gonna be exactly cheap but they are worth it. You might want to look into Tony Wildman or PHP. There are others Im not real familiar with like Beans, Swamps and a couple others.
Sorry I cant help with the cranking problem but I know thats not normal.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:21 AM
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Noob question... What does spraying the boots with hairspray accomplish?
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:04 PM
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after setting for a little wile hand having a hard time cranking sounds like the high pressure oil pump is bleeding down and they when u go to crank its filling up with oil and then letting the injectors fire
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