Help! My Truck wont charge. Both Alt and Batteries are new - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 03-06-2010, 04:46 AM
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Help! My Truck wont charge. Both Alt and Batteries are new

Hey guys. I got a 03 SD with the single alternator. My truck died and i charged it and found out the batteries were not charging. So i got a new Alternater. That didnt work, so i got new batteries. Still doesnt charge!!

I live where they put A LOT of salt on the roads during winter so something might be corroded? Does anyone know where i can start? I have a 79 ford at a buddies who is having finacial difficulties. I am affraid they are going to take my 79 so i need to go get it fast! but i cant because my truck wont charge. Does anyone have any tips? where do the small alt wires go to? I have the large wire for the batteries and then a plug with 2 smaller ones. I already had one problem 2 yrs ago. And the passenger side wire (orange) is now connected to the large wire. So there is only one wire going elsewhere. And i put this alt on my moms truck and it works on hers.

my cell is 330 715 7774 (Brad), Its verizon. if you guys have any ideas! or write on this thread. I just want to figure out the problem asap

Thanks in advance!

Last edited by 036speed; 03-06-2010 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 03-06-2010, 04:59 AM
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Also, the battery light does not come on. As i drive the volt meter slowly drops. Then when its low enough, the ABS light comes on and the radio flips out
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Old 03-06-2010, 05:00 AM
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You say it isn't charging? Because the batteries are dying or have you monitored the voltage? If it really is low voltage, then (obviously) the first step is clean connections. Just for grins, take off all the battery connections and wire brush them. Really check the passenger side positive where the cable branches - I've seen them rot on the inside where no contact is being made.

Then, attach one battery at a time, and compare that battery voltage with the voltage you get from the large lead on the back of the amp. If it is different, or non-existant - you have a cable problem. Negatives go to ground - so track them down and clean/fix the other end and positives go to the starter terminal and branch to the electrical distribution (fuses/GEM module)

If the voltage on the large terminal is the same as the batteries, start the truck. It should jump to 14.5 to 16.5 volts. If it doesn't, check all the connections on the alternator. Verify that you can't turn the pulley (just in case your belt is so loose, its slipping excessively.) I would then conclude a bad alternator (its rare, but been known to be bad straight out of the box) - take it off and have it tested at your local parts store.
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Old 03-06-2010, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dray8165 View Post
You say it isn't charging? Because the batteries are dying or have you monitored the voltage? If it really is low voltage, then (obviously) the first step is clean connections. Just for grins, take off all the battery connections and wire brush them. Then, attach one battery at a time, and compare that battery voltage with the voltage you get from the large lead on the back of the amp. If it is different, or non-existant - you have a cable problem. Negatives go to ground - so track them down and clean/fix the other end and positives go to the starter terminal and branch to the electrical distribution (fuses/GEM module)

If the voltage on the large terminal is the same as the batteries, start the truck. It should jump to 14.5 to 16.5 volts. If it doesn't, check all the connections on the alternator. Verify that you can't turn the pulley (just in case your belt is so loose, its slipping excessively.) I would then conclude a bad alternator (its rare, but been known to be bad straight out of the box) - take it off and have it tested at your local parts store.
The batteries are dying. When the truck is charged and running they only read 10 volts vs the 14-15 they should be. The same number i get off the back of the alt. Everything has been cleaned. I also put the alt on my moms 7.3 and it was charging fine. Maybe my GPR is stuck on. I am going unplug that relay and see what happens?
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Old 03-06-2010, 05:07 AM
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It would take a big load to overwhelm the alternator - the cables would get pretty warm. Unplugging the GPR is a decent test. The alternator is internally regulated. I think one of the small cables is basically a key on power source - since you have another PSD to compare to, why don't you see if one goes hot with the key on in the good truck and compare that to yours.
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Old 03-06-2010, 05:17 AM
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I copied this from my manual: It shows two grey fusible links that could be a problem

http://picasaweb.google.com/dray8165...24452335471682


Picasa Web Albums - David - Truck

CAUTION:


•To prevent damage to the generator, do not make jumper wire connections except as directed.
•Do not allow any metal object to come in contact with the housing and the internal diode cooling fins with key on or off. A short circuit will result and burn out the diodes.
NOTE:


•Battery posts and cable clamps must be clean and tight for accurate meter indications.
•Refer to the battery tester manual for complete directions for testing the charging system.
1.Turn off all lamps and electrical components.
2.Place the vehicle in transmission range NEUTRAL and apply the parking brake.
3.Carry out the Load Test and No-Load Test according to the following component tests:
Generator On-Vehicle Tests - Load Test


1.Switch the tester to the ammeter function.
2.Connect the positive and negative leads of the tester to the corresponding battery terminals.
3.Connect the current probe to the generator B+ output terminal, circuit 36 (YE/WH).


130 Amp Generator



4.With the engine running at 2,000 rpm , adjust the tester load bank to determine the output of the generator. Generator output should be at least 87 amps .
5.With the engine running, turn the A/C on, the blower motor on high speed and the headlamps on high beam.
6.Increase the engine speed to approximately 2,000 rpm . The voltage should increase a minimum of 0.5 volt above the base voltage.
•If the voltage does not increase as specified, carry out the Generator On-Vehicle Tests.
•If the voltage increases as specified, the charging system is operating normally.
Generator On-Vehicle Tests - No-Load Test


1.Switch the tester to the voltmeter function.
2.Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the generator B+ terminal and the negative lead to ground.
3.Turn all electrical accessories off.
4.With the engine running at 2,000 rpm , check the generator output voltage. The voltage should be between 13.0 and 15.0 volts
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Old 03-07-2010, 02:03 PM
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I found out what my problem was. After that last post of course...

I bought a new GPR and a Air Heater Relay and a starter. None of those fixed my Problem. Found out it was indeed the inline fuses. My truck died far away from my house. When i finally left the truck and got home to check out my manual i found out it has 3 in line fuses. I checked for resistance and when i jumped them, i was charging at 13.7 vs my 10.2! YAY! So i know my problem at least. However, i am not goin to drive the truck until they are fixed correctly. Good thing i bought a ford focus yesterday to save gas with haha

Thanks Dray for the info!
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Old 03-07-2010, 02:15 PM
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The best way to save gas with a Ford Focus is to put it in the bed of your SuperDuty. It should fit without a problem
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:31 AM
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Any ideas what would cause this exact reaction in a 6.0? I'm having the same problem and not sure if I should have the same fix or not?
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:45 AM
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the 6.0 has what's called a smart charging system, IIRC. it can take up to a couple minutes for the alt to start charging. so when you test, make sure it's been running for a few. the 6.0's alt is pretty notorious for bad diodes. if you've already replaced the alt with a new unit, we can cancel that..i suppose.
does the batt light illuminate when you turn the key on and the instr. cluster goes through self test of the bulbs? if not, a dead batt light bulb could be the problem, as it completes the circuit
there are also a few fusible links coming off the pass side battery depending on the year. check those
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