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LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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I have a 99 7.3 L, and it has 180,000 on it. I have had the usual stuff like Cam Shaft Positioning Sensor, the diver side wheel bearing housing, Altenator, and the dreaded leaking "O" rings on the fuel drain valve on the seperator. I suppose that's the normal stuff that most everyone has had to endure. Other than that, I have done none of the mods and other than the disappointments in the fuel ecomomy, have been relatively pleased with the stock performance. I filled up the other day and it is about 1500 miles into my latest oil change. Level is slightly below the full level. I use Delo 400, 10W40. I parked my truck for a couple of days and when I went to start it it did not want to start, it rattled quite a bit and ran extemely rough when I did get it started. Idled was rough at about 800 RPM, but there was no power when the pedal was depressed to ther floor. The truck would run rough and slowly pick up speed and shift really hard. It would not exceed 60 MPH at 2500 RPM. I parked the vehicle Until I can determine the problem. There were no warnings that there was trouble brewing. The check engine light did come on for the first time ever. The "altenator" light was blinking on and off at higher RPM's.
It has ans Automatic trannny with good fluid level and it is a 4X4 |
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get codes pulled first , also have charging system cecked , low power to pcm can cuase problems ,get the codes and lets go from there
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OK..... I'll get them pulled. I assume it's OK to drive it short distances?
Jim |
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long as its full of oil i would if i had to
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I can't get off early enough to go to any of the diesel repair shops in my area.... do any of the national chain parts stores have a reliable way to download the codes?
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alot of auto zone and advance auto have scanners that will work ,just dont rely on their diagnosis skills just get the code/codes written down
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Roger that .... thanks
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The same here
I've had the same thing here except only when cold. The program I have says to check the low pressure oil pump for wear. You put a straight edge arcoss it and measure with a feeler gauge anything over .003 is not good. The pumps are pretty cheap around 66 bucks at the dealer. One thing to look at after you get the codes pulled.
Later on John |
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Quote:
I agree... battery light usually means alt is shot, so if it's not charging, the batteries get low and wont crank and causes havok with the pcm, and gives all kinds of wierd codes. just another idea.... |
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