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Old 02-01-2010, 03:27 PM
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Question sticky brakes

couple of weeks ago i noticed my front brakes would slightly stick after i would apply them, my motor temp would rise atleast 200* after they are sticking, then they would just randomely "pop" and let go and you couldn't tell anything was wrong, so i decided to
1. clean everying including brakes and calipers and clips
didn't fix so i
2. baught new calipers and brakes
didn't fix so i
3. replaced my brake lines comming out of calipers
didn't fix
I"m really hoping i don't have to replace my master cylinder....anyone got any idea whats going on?
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:44 PM
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:22 AM
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same problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by CloverLeafFarm View Post
Hey Zach, I'm having the same problem with my 02 f-250 let me know if you found the problem.
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:27 AM
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I am gonna say I am in the same boat, mine keep fixing themselves and then re-breaking. The calipers were so hard to compress last week when I did brakes. I hope calipers fix my problem, I dont want to have to dig into something else. Yesterday it pulled to the right, today it stayed straight.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:09 AM
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after i did everything in my OP, i replaced the Master cylinder and i haven't had a problem yet, and thats been well over amonth ago...it appeared that the black rubber pieces under the cylinder had ceroded and were leaking in air.....just a heads up to anyone
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:05 AM
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I would say six out of 10 the problem is in the flex lines when you have a hanging brake. Due to the colapsed line not alowing presure to releive. Stuck pins usualy cause a lack of breaking due to only the piston side applying presure not allowing the caliper to slide and apply even presure thusfor wering the piston side pad faster.

Just some things the others that have commented on this thread might check for there problems.
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:57 PM
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Ok I have done some investigation into this problem and here is what I came up with on my truck......The intermintant brake "hanging" proplem was quit a interesting one on my truck because it was so darn intermintant but I did finally confirm the problem and diag it 100% and fix it with out spending a penny and I'm sure most people above could have done the same above. My truck had the problem then it would go away for a month or so--then it would come back!---frustrating for sure!

Here is how I diag'ed the truck when it was acting up (the first dam@ time it was doing it when I was home and I could look at it and it was'nt 5 degree below zero out side!)--I jacked up the front of the truck, with the truck in neutral and tried to spin the tires--they where firmly braking and I could not turn them at all!...So I released 1 bleeder and wa'la brake fluid pressure released and then the wheel's freeded up and turned nicely. Sooooo, now the problem could be traced down from the master to the pedal. The pedal push rod does not have any adjustment anywhere like early models so the only real solution could be parts. When I went to remove the master cylinder the problem became REAL evident. it took me better then 2 hours to get the 2 pieces seperated!...the aluminum master cylinder has developed so much corrosion between the barrel of the master cylinder snout to the inside of the steel power booster, One can only assume that the master barrel has began to collapse onto itself and hold the master cylinder piston in the bore at the end of the stroke where the booster is mounted. I think I had to clean off close to 1/8" corrosion and there where all kinds of pieces floating around inside of the two assemblies that "could" get lodged into the snap ring in the master cylinder that would also hold the master cylinder in the slightly held position...although there is a clean out hole, there where way to many pieces floating around that where not falling out of the clean out hole.

I could not prove one way or another which one because of how darn hard you have to beat the master to get it to seperate from the booster, but once you get it apart you'll understand what's going on real quickly for sure.

#1 the corrosion causing the piston to bind in the bore of the master cylinder at the back of the "top" of the bore where the booster is

OR

#2 A piece of corrosion behind the master cylinder piston snap ring was holding the master cylinder piston in the "on position"

but either way the above repair will fix both possibilities for sure. I simply cleaned off the corrosion on the inside and outside of the master cylinder, cleaned off the booster inside and out , lubed up everything and reassembeled everything and drove the heck out of it....it has worked ok up to this point 100%. Expecially if your in a corrosive area I would definately try this before buying any parts.......

Last edited by 2001pwrstroke; 04-15-2010 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:11 AM
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going to try this over the weekend sounds like this could be my problem. brakes been ok for week and a half but would guess its going to happen agian
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