Short Money 7.3L No Power, Buzz Test - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 50 Old 05-02-2017, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Short Money 7.3L No Power, Buzz Test

Picked up a 99 7.3L dump for short money. The issue the owner discribed was no power. I was able to drive it home. It definitely has no power.
It almost feels like the turbo is non-existant. (was replaced by previous owner)
Will not do more then 55-60 just doesn't have the power to get there.
I am assuming fuel related or injectors.
I put it on the AE did a buzz test 2,3,5,7 clearly produced diminished sounds. I wasn't able to start it to do a CCT to see if it matched those cylinders, the batteries died trying to start. It did turn over just was lacking the fuel.
It did throw the following codes P1670, P0475, P0470

I know P1670 leans towards the IDM but wouldnt a faulty IDM produce an all around crap buzz test?

My question is should I just bite the bullet and buy the 4 injectors and fix the EBPV codes and hope thats the cure?

I do plan on dropping the fuel tank and cleaning the screens, also pulled the fuel bowl filter out and it is filthy inside, i do plan on cleaning that as well.

217k on the truck BTW. The previous owner said they replaced the #1 injector and the injector harness.

2001 F250 powerstroke!
MBRP 4 inch turbo back installer series
32 inch NITTO terra-grappler
JW Valve Body
DP Tuner 40, 80, 120, 140 agr., SleD Pull
New S&B Intake
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2.5" leveling kit
F-550 Spring Pack in the rear
(This truck is currently getting a full frame off Resto. I will share pics when it is complete!)
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post #2 of 50 Old 05-02-2017, 05:31 PM
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Weak buzz test may be worn poppet valves. This causes low armature clearances and will buzz muted when cold. Try multiple buzz tests and see if the tone changes. Or plug it in and then a few hours latter buzz test it. You can confirm the wear by removing the valve covers, then removing the injector solenoids and using a feeler gauge to check armature gap. They are around .004 when new and less than .002 start showing issues. Start with the small issues like that cleaning battery cables and confirming the batteries are OK and get some new batteries if they are not. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge.

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post #3 of 50 Old 05-02-2017, 06:14 PM
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Could be an idm issue as well. Or backed out uvch. At least for the one bank

the richest ones are not those who have the most, but those who need the least

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post #4 of 50 Old 05-03-2017, 12:29 PM
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[quoteIt did throw the following codes P1670, P0475, P0470][/quote]

P0475 and P0470 are for the exhaust back pressure valve. If that isn't working properly it would DEFINITELY cause a "no-turbo, no-power" situation.

On the hot side of the turbo, there is a butterfly valve and linkage prior to the downpipe. This could be stuck in the closed position. An easy test is to disconnect the linkage and temporarily wire the valve open and go for a drive.

FWIW deleting that nonsense was the first mod for both of my trucks, and have never looked back.

Gunga galunga...gunga -- gunga galunga.

97 F-250 CC 4x4 7.3L PSD E4OD
99 F-250 CC 4x4 7.3L PSD ZF6 E99 CALI DELETE
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post #5 of 50 Old 05-03-2017, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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If I can get it running again I am going to move it into my shop and start tearing it apart. Whom ever had there hands in there prior to me was very sloppy when they wire all the accessories, (plow, strobes, motor for the dump) I am going to go through all the possibilities before changing the injectors.

One odd thing it did suddenly yesterday when the batteries drained was the windshield wipers would shut off completely. They stayed on intermittent.

its crazy I have 220K on my truck in my sig and have never ever had any issue. it is currently getting a frame off restoration.

2001 F250 powerstroke!
MBRP 4 inch turbo back installer series
32 inch NITTO terra-grappler
JW Valve Body
DP Tuner 40, 80, 120, 140 agr., SleD Pull
New S&B Intake
Foil Delete
Blacked out tints
2.5" leveling kit
F-550 Spring Pack in the rear
(This truck is currently getting a full frame off Resto. I will share pics when it is complete!)
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post #6 of 50 Old 05-03-2017, 04:14 PM
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Good call. It's best to thoroughly diagnose an issue before you start tearing injectors out. Many do this all the time to find out the injectors were fine.
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post #7 of 50 Old 05-04-2017, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

So this morning before heading up to work I pulled the batteries so I could replace them as well as the connectors on the cables. They are in poor shape. I did try to start it for ****s and giggles, Fired up pretty quickly but only on 4 cylinders and would not stay running.

I did notice that the harness coming out of the drivers side valve cover has been spliced in (the pig tail) i am going to assume someone replaced the UVCH on that side. I am hoping I can get her running enough tonight to move her in the shop and start tearing it down. I plugged the block heater in to try to warm up the oil enough to see if I can get it to run.

Do you think if that UVCH was replaced I can rule that side out, or maybe the dip**** who put it in ****ed up the connections. They were all done with what looks like marine grade heat shrink style butt connectors.

# 2 is on the driver side correct? and 3,5,7 are on Pass. like I said 1,4,6,8 we strong when doing the buzz test, I am hoping If i can get it to run tonight I will be able to run some more diagnostics on the AE. Any other specific test I should conduct to point towards or rule out injectors other then the CCT?

2001 F250 powerstroke!
MBRP 4 inch turbo back installer series
32 inch NITTO terra-grappler
JW Valve Body
DP Tuner 40, 80, 120, 140 agr., SleD Pull
New S&B Intake
Foil Delete
Blacked out tints
2.5" leveling kit
F-550 Spring Pack in the rear
(This truck is currently getting a full frame off Resto. I will share pics when it is complete!)
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post #8 of 50 Old 05-04-2017, 06:29 AM
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Here's what I'd do in your position:
Get it in the shop. Pull the valve covers. Inspect the uvch's. If good, Allow the truck to sit overnight for a cold soak.
Fire it up and inspect the oil exhaust ports while it's running rough. No oil coming out of the exhaust spouts mean that injector is not firing.
You can remove the aluminum spouts prior to testing to make it more visible.
After this is done, and you've noted any injectors that aren't oiling, perform the buzz test. Next, remove one of the injectors that passed the buzz test and plug it into the connector of one that failed. Run buzz test again. Continue this step with all cylinders that failed the buzz test using the injector you pulled. This will qualify the circuits
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post #9 of 50 Old 05-04-2017, 06:33 AM
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#2,4,6,8-Driver Side
#1,3,5,7-Passenger Side

Here is a good little read 7.3LInjectorDiagnostic

-2001 F250 Extended Cab SWB 4x4 : ZF-6 speed, TS 6 pos chip, ISSPRO EV2 gauges, Adrenaline HPOP. STOLEN RIP
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post #10 of 50 Old 05-04-2017, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelucci33 View Post
Update:

So this morning before heading up to work I pulled the batteries so I could replace them as well as the connectors on the cables. They are in poor shape. I did try to start it for ****s and giggles, Fired up pretty quickly but only on 4 cylinders and would not stay running.

I did notice that the harness coming out of the drivers side valve cover has been spliced in (the pig tail) i am going to assume someone replaced the UVCH on that side. I am hoping I can get her running enough tonight to move her in the shop and start tearing it down. I plugged the block heater in to try to warm up the oil enough to see if I can get it to run.

Do you think if that UVCH was replaced I can rule that side out, or maybe the dip**** who put it in ****ed up the connections. They were all done with what looks like marine grade heat shrink style butt connectors.

# 2 is on the driver side correct? and 3,5,7 are on Pass. like I said 1,4,6,8 we strong when doing the buzz test, I am hoping If i can get it to run tonight I will be able to run some more diagnostics on the AE. Any other specific test I should conduct to point towards or rule out injectors other then the CCT?
Get truck running and disconnect one valve cover harness at a time:

1) if the truck continues to run, you've disconnected the "bad side"

2) if the truck stalls, you've disconnected the "good side"

Gunga galunga...gunga -- gunga galunga.

97 F-250 CC 4x4 7.3L PSD E4OD
99 F-250 CC 4x4 7.3L PSD ZF6 E99 CALI DELETE
ROTELLA 5W-40, MOBIL1 ATF, PENNZOIL SYNCHROMESH
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