2001 7.3 Hard Start (all the time, whether cold or hot) - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-13-2007, 05:16 PM
K73 K73 is offline
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
2001 7.3 Hard Start (all the time, whether cold or hot)

Hello all.

This is going to be a bit long winded, but I want to make sure to provide as much detail as possible. Also, I will be posting this on several sites, so if you see it again you know why.

So here it is.... Iím having an issue that has me so worked up I canít think of anything else. I have a hard start issue with my 7.3 that occurs whether its cold, warm, or hot. Doesnít matter if I just ran the truck or let it sit overnight.

My Truck:
2001 F250 7.3 4x4 with 177k miles. Mods: K&N air filter, BD 80hp chip (which has been removed and will not be reinstalled until I can resolve this issue - note: problem occurs whether the chip is in or not).

Issue:
Hard start regardless of ambient temperature or truck temperature. Turn the key, engine turns over at normal crank speed, after 5-10 seconds it starts or not at all. A second (or third) try will usually get me running. Once in running, the truck runs fine.

History:
Started having intermittent stalling and no RPM on restartÖ. CMP, had this before at 39k. Replaced the CMP and solved this issue. But while replacing the CMP I noticed my oil filter was loose and I was 5-6 qts down on oil. This had to have occurred during the previous day or so as I check all my fluid levels each time I fill up with fuel (which was 2 days earlier). So I fill the engine with oil and check the HPOP Reservoir, of course it was low, so I topped it off to about a ĹĒ below the top. Engine still has trouble starting, but once started runs fine. After this little fiasco I decided to do my 180k maintenance now. So I changed all fluids (engine, tranny, x-fer case, diffs, coolant) and all filters (oil, fuel, tranny). Also note, the SES light does not come on. It did when the engine would stall prior to changing he CMP, but has come on since.

Well, since then I have been having issues starting the truck. So here is what I have done thus far in my trouble shooting efforts:
- Replaced CMP (now when I crank I get tach movement)
- Replaced GPR (this resolved the not starting at all / extremely hard starting. Now it starts, but is not back to normal)
- HPOP Reservoir level (since I topped it off, it has stayed constant)
- Fully charged batteries. Both are >12.4V and the engine appears to crank at normal speed
- Battery load test showed both batteries were good (935cca & 1030cca). Had it done twice on seperate days just to be sure.
- Removed IPR, appeared to be in good working order, cleaned, testes, and replaced o-rings.
- Verified glow plug resistance (all in spec) at the valve cover connectors (outside 4 pins on each)
- Verified ICP harness voltage & resistance checks (all in spec)
- Disconnected ICP connector and engine still starts with some effort (as usual) and runs fine (???)

So whatís next? I do not have a code tester, but plan to pick one up the next time Iím in town, which may be a couple days. But if I'm not getting an SES, will the PCM still be putting out codes? Either way, if I buy the $175 unit I could at least read sensor data while running. But until then I would like to keep trouble shooting as much as possible. So I am looking for any help to further diagnose the problem with what I have available.

Other areas I will check or have considered looking at.
- Voltage check to the PCM during cranking to verify if greater than 10.5V.
- CMP Harness
- IDM. How do I check?
- Relay for the PCM & Fuel Pump
- Starter???
- EBP
- How do I check the ICP sensor itself to ensure it is good?
- HPOP rebuild / o-ring replacement???
- Have also considered that it might be low oil or fuel pressure.

Thanks in advance for the help
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 03-13-2007, 05:29 PM
Banned
 

Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: central coast, california
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
First of all...very nice post.....

K....to rule out the ICP sensor, simply disconnect it and see if it helps, it will default to 2000 psi.........
Just because the IPR looks good doesnt mean it is....but only watching ICP and IPR duty cycle on a higher dollar scan tool will verify that for sure.....
I would definately look at the possiblility of your fuel bowl draining down.....if the pump has to prime it each time, the pump could even be getting weak. I would first pull the fuel filter cap after it had sat all night to verify the fuel bowl is fuel...then check fuel pressure (usually done with a T in the fuel line at the outlet of the pump)
You could have bad injector o rings, although generally speaking that problem is only with cold starts, but with 180k on the clock, it may be worth looking into if its never been done because odds are the copper washers on the tips of the injectors are leaking, and replacing the o ring set will help your fuel economy worst case senerio even if it doesnt fix your problem...

The biggest thing to check from here is going to be for blow by and possible compression loss though.....approaching 200,000 miles and hard starting with good glow plugs could mean shes down on compression a bit and with some oil getting onto the cylenders it gets enough sealing to light off....unless your ambiant air temp is below 40-50 degrees you shouldnt actually need the glow plugs to fire anyway......

let us know how this stuff comes out and we will go from there buddy!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 03-16-2007, 07:04 AM
K73 K73 is offline
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Hey Marc, thanks for the reply.

All is now good. Shortly after I posted I was given the name of a local shop by 2 different people. Both said the guys at the shop were straight shooters and good diesel mechanics. So I called them up and asked the cost on an initial diagnostic, they said $60.

So here was my descision process. I was at the point where I needed a scan tool and maybe a pressure gauge and a couple T fittings. Cost around $200 total if I went for the good scan tool. Or I can drop the $60-100 at the shop and have the truck looked at by a certified tech.

Well I chose to let them do it and explained all that I had done. After looking at it they were a little puzzeled. So they decided to swap the CMP, eventhough I had just put in a new one. They pulled one off an engine that had been sitting on there shop floor and BINGO started right up.

So I'm off to Autozone to get a refund. Also, the guys mentioned that they have had several trucks with similar symptoms that all had new CMPs from Autozone. Autozone has never let me down before, probly just their supplier.

But hey at least I'm running. I was really getting worried it might be a much bigger issue.


-k

Note:
I also must give the guys at Diesel Performance (Round Rock, TX) some props. They could have easily raked me over the coals, but didn't. They wouldn't even take money for the used CMP they installed. They earned points with me and I will use them in the future if needed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 03-22-2007, 05:51 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: louisville KY
Posts: 152
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
auto zone electronics are not exactly up to snuff they are not the best quality hence the lifetime gaurantee
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 03-22-2007, 05:59 PM
ADMIN AND TECH


 

Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: winston salem north carolina
Posts: 9,242
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
oem parts cant beat em
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 08-02-2010, 06:48 PM
Emergency Services
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 53
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Hello, I am having this same problem. Just curious, what does CMP stand for and what does it usually cost?

Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 08-02-2010, 06:57 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 25
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
i have a 2000 f250, and am going nuts trying to figure out my cold start issue. should we get tach movement while starting? i dont recall my tach ever moving during starting. by cmp, you mean camshaft position, right? i wonder if this could be the problem, but im not getting any codes for it. INTERESTING!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 08-02-2010, 08:36 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Truck wont start!

I have a major problem..... Truck will turn over, wont fire at all, and wait to start light wont go off when i turn the key. all was good 1 hour before this happened. Any suggestions?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 11-04-2010, 01:01 AM
Member
 

Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Glen burnie
Posts: 55
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Sorry, off subject but had to ask.

For the dude with the ex wth F550 springs. DUDE!!! that has to ride like s#%@ when not loaded. No offense. Wouldn't a nice (adjustable) airbag system ride better?

Again more a question of how good the ride is? Soft/Hard?

Paul
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 04-11-2014, 07:19 AM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I have 2002 with similar symptoms. It wasn't very cold and my motor smoked a bit when it tried to start. Third time it started but with a smoky garage. There was even some darker smoke out the left side of the hood. All glow plugs verified working. I have dp tuner, aih delete, 5 inch muffler delete, turbomaster, 6637 intake, CCv reroute. What should I check first?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors