Went to NAPA and got two, just in case. Got a new rod put in and drove around 20 miles, came home, hooked the boat up, and drove another 4 or 5. The next morning I was going to the lake so I headed out. Got about 15 miles away, cruise set at 65-70 on the interstate, and I feel a vibration. Turn the cruise off and give it some throttle, sure enough, smoke and shaking. Exactly the same as before. Went ahead to the dock and did my thing, then got the rig back home.
Today I opened her back up and the new pushrod is gone. Disappeared! My only guess is that it broke and is in a couple pieces down in the lifter valley somewhere.
Also, I have nice cheap little bore camera that I stuck down in there to try to locate the pushrod and found this: I have zero experience inside this motor, but to me, this looks like a lifter that is outside of the bore and needs to be replaced. It also looks like it is wedged in something but I can't exactly tell what that is. Thus, time to pull the head.
Any advice on pulling the driver side head? Anything else I might need to look at doing while I'm that far in it?
Thoughts on what could be causing the pushrod issues?
I pulled the #8 injector and the O-Ring near the tip looks worn on the top, like a chunk is missing, but it looks like the widest point is still intact.
That sure looks like lifter guts to me; it appears to have come apart. If you're going to pull the head with the engine in-frame, use a hoist. They're quite heavy. Otherwise, it's pretty straightforward. Drain the coolant, then back the block heater out until it starts to dribble and let the block drain, or pull the block drain plug and make a mess, lol. Pull the valve cover, pull the rockers, pull the injectors. Disconnect the fuel line, HPO line, ICP sensor and valve cover harness and pop the head bolts out. Scrape off the old gasket from both surfaces. I usually follow that up with a coarse scotchbrite pad and mineral spirits. For installation, this is a relevant part from the service manual:
Ford Workshop Manual said:
57.
1. Position the oil deflector.
2. Install the bolt.
CAUTION: Make sure to follow the next step of this procedure to prevent bent valves.
Rotate the engine until the mark on the crankshaft damper is at 11 o'clock, to prevent damage when installing the intake rocker arm and exhaust rocker arm.
58. NOTE: All 16 push rods and rocker arms are installed the same way. Only one push rod and rocker arm is shown.
NOTE: Install the push rods with the copper end up. Install the rocker arms.
1. Apply clean engine oil to the push rod, and insert the push rod, with the copper end up, into the engine. Make sure the push rod seats onto the lifter.
2. Position the rocker arm onto the cylinder head.
3. Install the bolts. (torque spec is 20 ft/lbs. for the rocker bolts)
Install the 18 cylinder head bolts. (edited to add: head bolts are reusable)
Lightly lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads and flanges with clean engine oil.
Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in three stages.
Stage 1: Using the first sequence, tighten the bolts to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Using the first sequence, tighten the bolts to 115 Nm (85 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Using the second sequence, tighten the bolts to 129 Nm (95 lb-ft).
Well I finally got a few minutes to get a little start. Got coolant drained, VC Harness removed, loosened exhaust manifold bolts (one was rounded off, have to deal with that later), unhooked the HPO line.
Due to having to work on the outside I am trying to minimize the things that have to be removed so I'm not running in and out of the garage. With that being said is there an easy way to get the fuel line disconnected without removing the alternator, and will loosening the clamps on the coupler from the turbo allow it to separate when the head starts to lift? Or am I missing something else that has to come off intake wise?
Then there was this
I'm pretty certain those wires are supposed to be insulated. Is this harness able to be replaced without replacing the whole engine harness? Or is it easy (and wallet friendly) enough to just replace the whole thing?
One more... 305k motor that hadn't been cleaned until I got it, there is still a bunch of crap caked up on there. Any suggestions for things that make that easy to get off, or just have to get down and dirty with a stiff brush and some flat edges?
Head is off. Thankfully, the damage is very minimal. It looks like I could get away with replacing the lifter, pushrod, and having the injector tested and throw her back together.
Lifter puked its guts out
Judging from the look of that piston and the associated valves, it looks like there may have been some problem here for quite some time. I'm not exactly sure what it could be but (obviously) I am hoping it is related to the parts that have to be replaced anyway.
I did not do a compression test since I wasn't sure what might be where under the head, but I do plan on it when I get it back together. At least on this bank. What all could cause the valve to rust like that and how long would it take to get to that point?
#8 Lifters and the goodies that the intake side decided it didn't want anymore.
Last but not least, the two poor pushrods. Bottom was the first one that I found, top one is the one I couldn't find that decided to fold itself down in there.
Will definitely be checking out the link for the pigtails, and possibly this other stuff that I need. Might as well do plugs while I'm this far in.
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