P1690 Wastegate Solenoid Circuit Code ?

[bob00stroke]

(Edit 11-3-09: See next post below, still got the P1690 code, but got the thump-thump noise fixed.)

Getting this P1690 code. Along with the code I am getting a fast thump-thump-thump out the intake.

Passed test KH2 at 11.9 volts. The 30 amp fuse for this circuit is OK too, I think passing this test tells me that too.

Did not run KH3 "Check for Open in Control Circuit" cause it says you need a "Breakout Box". (I have since read this is Ford's box for diagnosing the PCM, like $2000 and only the dealers can get it.)

Failed KH4 "Check for Short to Ground", getting 0 ohms resistance.
Anybody know where this white/red circuit 1275 goes bad?

Since I am a parts changer when I can be , I put on new Wastegate Solenoid for $35, but did not fix code.

Due to the thump-thump, before I got the Auto Enginuity from ITP to run tests, I checked the compression - all are OK and pretty even. I put in new ZD-11 glow plugs while I was in there.

Ran buzz test cold, passed it 3 times, all sounded good.

Ran CCT several times, once I put my old black CPS in, passed it several times (#8 failed with the new design gray CPS in there). Change in Rotational Velocities are all 0%, except #8 which is less than 1%.

Thanks in advance.

[bob00stroke]

Well, still got the P1690 code, but I got the thump thump thumping noise that was coming out the intake fixed. Truck is running great now again, although I only have about 500 miles on it so far. The thumping had nothing to do with the P1690 code, fixing it is next.

The thumping out the intake was due to a broke push rod on #3 exhaust. Luckily I got the other half out of there with a super strong telescoping magnet my neighbor had and also luckily, in looking down in there with a snake inspection camera from work, there appeared to be no other damage to the lifter, head etc.

I replaced all 8 rocker/pedestal assemblies and pushrods on the passenger side because these were all date stamped LB 051 and LB 061 which are the suspect date stamps for the year 2000 defective rocker arms/pedestals. All but 2 of the driver's side ones were date stamped LA which are supposed to be OK, the other 2 were date stamped LO. It was only about $175 for the parts. I retorqued the driver's side rockers but only found one bolt that budged a little.

I did not find this the 1st time I had the valve covers off even though I used a remote starter and watched all the push rods go up and down. Even though it was broke, it was somehow still activating the rocker. Not sure why I did not see something odd then, guess I did not watch close enough. A compression test did not find it either, although I put in the new Motorcraft glow plugs so that was alright too.

I found it by putting the motor at 11:00 like the manual says, this puts all the valves near the top, then once I felt all the push rods it was obvious once I got to the broke one.

I put this project off because I thought it was going to be a big deal taking each rocker off to find the problem, when actually, working with these rockers is easy with the motor at 11:00. It is also easy to get the push rods back in the lifters, the holes in the head guide them right to the lifters and you can feel the push rod slide in to the lifter. After torquing the rocker pedestals all back down (and re-checking), you can check your push rod insert work with the remote starter just to make sure you have them in there right. I used Permatex assembly lube on the pushrod ends and the rocker arm balls. I used grease on the top of the valve stems cause the lube wouldn't stay there. Changed the oil and filter after about a 5 mile test drive because of the little bits that seem to get in there now matter how careful you are.

Last thing I would say is, IMHO, if you are going to work on one of these trucks, get a Topside Creeper, it actually made working on the truck enjoyable. Got mine from Northern Auto Parts, online, out of Sioux City Iowa. They had a special on the foldable topside creeper where you get a rolling tool tray to go along with it, the whole deal was $220 + $30 shipping. I was leery of getting one, but man, it was worth the money. I drilled a pair of extra holes 1/2 way between the others so I could bring it down as low as possible but still clear the coolant tank.