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LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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Truck shuts down...what the...?
This has happened 3 times in the last week. Twice my truck died when braking, just shut off. The SES light came on but it restarted right away. Another time it died when accelerating, after re-starting from time # 2 above.
I've dug through the other posts similar to this but didn't see many solutions. Ford replaced the CPS on the recall, could this be going bad? Again, I've researched this topic but found no definite answer. Getting ready for a big trip to Oregon next month and I need to have a safe vehicle to get me there, so any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Oh, not sure if this is related but several months ago it did something similar 3 or 4 times, it would lose power, chug and shudder down the road while surging then clear up. It died once or twice then too, SES came on when it did. It's run like a champ between times. |
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i think my 01 is doing the same thing your talking about. i crank it and drive it alittle about 10 mins and it goes into a sputtering jerkin and shuts off and the SES comes on. most times i can turn the key off and recrank, SES goes off when i do this. this last time, yesterday, it did it and would not crank back to run but only a approx 2 mins and shut back off. i gave up and got it towed. when i got home and unloaded it and it crank right up and drove around the yard. fuel pump and filter just replaced a few weeks ago thinkin that was the problem. obviously not. any help would be appreciated.
brad |
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First, try your OBD II reader and see if your getting any codes. If no codes are stored then move to this method (only works if your checking the functionality of your CPS) Crank your engine and watch your tachometer. If your CPS is bad or is going bad your tach will not register cranking rpm's. Also, verify the color of your CPS. Black is bad, grey is better and blue is the best. I have even heard of some getting better performance and fuel economy by using the blue CPS. It can be purchased at your local International dealership and I think the part number for it is as follows; IHC1807339C92. I hope this helps
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I've never checked the rpm's when cranking it. I haven't had problems starting my truck, even after it dies...so far at least. I'll check the tach tomorrow AM when I go to work. I'll post again as I find out more.
I don't have a code reader or access to one, unfortnately, unless there's a member in the Missoula MT area that may be able to help out. Thanks. |
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when it did it a while back i tried the code reader with no luck. it quit saturday morning and would not crank back. i had it towed back home and soon as unloaded from the roll back it crank right up. monday morning i cranked it and headed to the ford place, only 5 min drive and it quit at about 4 1/2 mins, lol go figure. that was almost the precise time ludwig replied and i recieved it on my blackberry. told me to watch the rpm tach. sure enough, no movement. hitched a ride to the ford place with VIN and found out the recall hadnt be serviced yet and gave me the CPS for free and ran back down and put it on. took every bit of 8 mins to do it. still had the black one on it. but the grey one in it and it crank right up. no problems so far. you were a lifesaver ludwig!
thanks, brad |
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not sure what I'm looking for...
When I crank it the RPM's don't seem to register until just a split second before it starts up. Is this normal, or should I see some low RPMs as it cranks?
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Hello every one it sounds like I am having the same problem I am driving down the highway and rpm's drop and the truck bucks or kills but it starts back up some times it takes a little while but I can go back on my way. If I am accelerating I can usually keep going but if I am braking or stopped the truck will kill any suggestions
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2003 7.3 L - Replaced cps, gray w gray, and engine light still on and engine dies after a couple of minutes - check engine light is on and no OBD II codes - did not remove #9 fuse before install but it looks good - friend suspects fuel pump problem - changed fuel filter 5K mile ago - would like to load camper and travel but can't - thank god i got to the dump and back. any suggestions?
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Glad I could help! I have done some research and found that their can be several things to shut your engine down that wont necesarily give a code. All of the values for your oil pressure and fuel pressure need to be manually checked. The factory gauges are not specific enough to get an accurate reading. basically if your oil pressure is low the gauge will read ok, and it will give no codes. but your truck will not start. Also something as little as corroded batter cables can put your truck in a position where it will crank very lively but will not provide enough power to the glow plugs to start. The most interesting clue i have found was while talking with the fellas that maintain commercial truck fleets, one of them told me about two censors that control the injection system (I will find out exactly what they are) these can go bad intermittently, not give codes, and will cause your truck not to start by not initializing the injectors. In the case of my 7.3 I have taken it upon myself to befriend some actual diesel mechanics and not the S**T heads at the stealership. If you know anyone who knows anyone at a semi truck shop it would be worth the time to deliver a 12 pack of cold ones and get them to let you pick there brain's. Its the best tool i ever puirchased.
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I replaced the cps and watched the tach it does not move until right before starting and I also tried pulling codes but all I got was error reading I have not put it back on the road yet but I will tommorrow to see if replacing the sensor worked or not and I will let ya'll know if it worked or not
thanks for the help Nicky |
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