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post #1 of 7 Old 06-22-2013, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Diff Seal

I am replacing the rear diff seal on my 02 F250 SRW. I been reading and it seems there isn't a torque spec but a preload spec. What is the preload spec, I haven't found anything other that just that. Should I just match the location of where the nut is now or what?


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post #2 of 7 Old 06-22-2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zillafreak View Post
I am replacing the rear diff seal on my 02 F250 SRW. I been reading and it seems there isn't a torque spec but a preload spec. What is the preload spec, I haven't found anything other that just that. Should I just match the location of where the nut is now or what?


Thanks.
Which seal, there are 3 in there. Are u talking about pinion seal?? Or the axle shaft seals on the inside beside the differential bearings.

Pinion torque for the crush sleeve is supposed to end up close to 466ft/lbs. I think the true number you want is 15in/lbs of resistance. Use needle type torque wrench, not a clicker style.

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post #3 of 7 Old 06-22-2013, 01:19 PM
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there is no inner seal near the diff on a full floater

the pinion seal has a cheat and it is counting threads and marking the nut and shaft carefully even a little blue loctite might be a good idea after you get it back exactly where it was

it's not the proper way but for DIY guys it's really the only choice unless your have a well equipped shop IMHO

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post #4 of 7 Old 06-22-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMANN View Post
there is no inner seal near the diff on a full floater
Rear Diff Seal-1371937183948.jpg

There are three seals. One at the pinion one on each axle inside the diff. Notice the pic from Yukon. 4 bearings, 3 seals, crush sleeve, shims for the rebuild kit.
The one other seal is kinda hidden by their logo.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-22-2013, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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I am doing the seal for the driveshaft.
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-22-2013, 07:17 PM
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I think your confused. The drive shaft is the long tube from the trans to the axle. If your talking about where the drive shaft meets the axle, that's the pinion. Setting preload is important but you can't do it correctly with everything together, however it's not always realistic to remove the carrier. What I would do is pull the shafts out so you have minimal load and check the current preload. You would do that by using a dial torque wrench on the pinion nut and spinning it. Look for where the needle settles as you are turning it. After you install the new seal, tighten the nut down till you match the existing preload.

As for the inner seal against the bearing, ZMANN is correct. It's only used on the front D60 axle. The rear Sterling does not use that style seal.

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post #7 of 7 Old 06-22-2013, 07:25 PM
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it's also good to verify that your vent tube is clear all the way to the axle and that it is not obstructed / bent/clogged

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