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Brand New Hub Failure? Why?

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Joey-D 
#1 ·
Just purchased a 2000 f250 ccsb 7.3 automatic 4x4 manual shifted t-case and hubs with 156k. Previous owner said the drivers hub gave out 2 days before I bought the truck and he had it towed home. He replaced the hub. I bought the truck and have put about 200 miles on since I got it. So I would presume about 300 on the hub. He stated the axle ujoint was locked on one axis. Also the 4 wheel drive wasn't working. I just tore into it. I purchased a new u joint and mile marker locking hubs. Upon taking it apart (I now know I will need seals since destroying them pulling the axle shaft) I noticed all the needle bearings in the inner bearing on the new hub fell out. The ujoint really wasn't that bad. So what did this guy do wrong to destroy these brand new bearings? I will be replacing just the inner bearings, part number b2110.
 
#3 ·
that bearing may have been dry ?
also I don't think it should wear at all unless the axle shaft is turning full speed not the parasitic slow speed they can

I am willing to bet the PO didn't replace with a timken and may have done something else all together and the needle was wasted from the get go ?

anyway see the part # in the thread and dbl check that it is the same as your 2000

I would give more detail but Mine ( 06) uses a sealed bearing instead of the needle style
 
#4 ·
He had replaced the entire hub assembly. That would include the bearings. They were dry, but when they fell out, they didn't look melted. Also my hubs are different since they are manual and not vacuum operated. I.e. I don't have nut and washer on the axle shaft itself, just a snap ring.
 
#6 ·
The axle shaft rides on a set of bearings in the pumpkin and a then rides on the bearings in the hub assembly. There are 2 sets of bearings in the hub assembly. (Remember the hub assembly is different than the lock outs). One set of bearings are non serviceable, are larger and ride inside the hub assembly. The smaller set are pressed into the outside of the hub assembly and are part number b2110. The b2110s are what failed in 300 miles. If one axis of the ujoint was bad it could cause it to fail, but they really weren't frozen. The idea of them being dry is very plausible. I know I am over thinking all of this, but I just hate to put it together again and it fail. Time and money is scarce to come by these days.
 
#7 ·
The idea of them being dry is very plausible. I know I am over thinking all of this, but I just hate to put it together again and it fail. Time and money is scarce to come by these days.
even with a dry bearing it would need to have the 4x4 hubs engaged

to spin the shaft and wear the bearings or be in 4 hi

and even then 200 miles ??


I am thinking He screwed something up or didn't use a new unit ?

anyway if u do he u joint and replace just the needle bearing along with some lube ( ps if it's got ABS u can lube the unit bearing also )

and verify the knuckle seal is good there is no reason this
will fail prematurely again IMHO as for the unit bearing it may not be OEM quality so IDK how that will hold up
 
#9 ·
Got her back together and working. It was missing the thrust washer behind the hub assembly and the 3 thrust washers inside the hub assembly behind the spring clip. The ujoint and axle seal and knuckle seal were bad too. The needle bearings also had to be replaced. Everything needed greased. The locking hub was literally empty. All the internals were missing. Replaced all that with mile marker locking hubs. Previous owner was a hack.
 
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