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Old 04-27-2013, 05:28 AM
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What else when doing rotors?

I have been dealing with some vibration under braking I think coming from the rear, rotors are warped I am thinking, and I have a caliper that decided to hang up on me. So I am replaceing them. Think I am gonna go with these because they are lifetime warranty, Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
and I already replaced the caliper and caliper mount (stuck guide pin) on the one that was hung up. Contemplating just spending the 175ish on buying lifetime warranty caliper/caliper mount kit from advance auto with lifetime warranty as well.
ANything else I should be replacing as well?
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:46 AM
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Well, you could consider changine the rubber brake hose while having the system apart.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:50 AM
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the brake line?
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:49 PM
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Ok so ordered the brake rotors yesterday.
I will be following this for the rears
#1 remove axle shaft with the 6 or 8 bolts on the end of the shaft.

#2 remove the caliper and mounting bracket.

#3 get a ford hub-nut tool, and remove the hub nut. I got a really nice one from Orielly's for about $30 because I use them a lot. I think they also rent them or there is cheaper ones available.

#4 remove the hub AND rotor as one piece. be careful not to get grime in the bearings. Actually, if you have never replaced the back bearings (and races) and seals, now would be a fantastic time to do it.

#5 Turn the hub/rotor over and look at the inside. There will be about 6 or 8 bolts inside there that will need a special tool to remove. They are called "E-Sockets", and the are basically like the opposite of Torx and fairly large. I found a set of "E-Sockets" at Tractor Supply Co. (Farm Hand brand, I think), but they are available at auto parts stores too. Those suckers are torqued in there pretty tight. I forget the specs on them. What i did was turn my torque wrench up a little at a time till I found out what torque they broke at, and then put them back in at the same torque.

#6 Once you get your cursing and knuckle breaking done, then take them to have them turned at a auto parts store or machine shop. If they are too messed up you might need a new set.

#7 the set I did were on an E450 van, and I had some bad brake guide pins that needed replacing. Consider new brake hardware when you put it back together. I had to get these special guide pins at the Ford dealer.

#8 I believe that on an F350 the parking brake is inside the brake rotor. check the shoes, and replace them while you are there, if you need to. You might as well, since you are there already.

#9 Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly.
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Anything missing? It has never been apart as far as I know should I get the back bearings seals?
Anyone have a writeup for this and the fronts?
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:32 PM
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That looks like a write-up for a dual rear wheel axle. Is yours a single? If so, it is much easier. Remove the tire, remove caliper, remove caliper bracket, and slide rotor off of studs. Clean all mating surfaces from.ruat and dirt nefore reassembly. Squeeze caliper pistons back.in the bore with and old brake pad and a c clamp. Use antisieze on caliper slide pins and both mounting bolts for the bracket and caliper.

That is all there is to rear brakes on a SRW truck

If you really want to replace all the bearings and seal.in the hub, then the rest of that write-up is close enough to help you out. I dont remember how tight you reinstall the hub nut though so some more digging needs done.

As far as the brake hose I mentioned, I thought I read that you were replacing a caliper and wanted to.know what else you should replace. I mentioned the brake hose because they can break down over time and leak or expand causing less braking effectiveness. The steel lines should be ok unless they dont look very healthy. At that point, your in for alot of time.
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