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post #1 of 9 Old 04-22-2013, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Vibration under load?

Hi All,

I'm hoping someone can help me pinpoint this issue. I have a vibration ~60-80mph and it only occurs under load (acceleration/holding speed). Once I let off the throttle, it goes away completely.

It feels as though it's coming from the center of the truck - not from the front end, or rear, and not tires/wheel balance.

A couple weeks ago, after not driving it for a couple weeks, the vibration started earlier (~45-50mph) and was the worst it had been. After driving for a bit, it seemed to lessen and it's now happening only at the higher speed again (65-80) but, is a bit more noticeable than before.

Considering it only occurs under load, I'm thinking driveshaft issue....

anyone?

thanks!
-dave

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post #2 of 9 Old 04-24-2013, 10:58 PM
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Does it have a carrier bearing? If not, sounds like u joints are starting to go. Also have it rebalanced of you put in new u joints. Also check to see if your driveshaft is "in phase". Google it and you will see what I mean.

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post #3 of 9 Old 04-25-2013, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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thanks - carrier bearing, all u-joints are less than two years old. During that repair, the driveshaft was balanced but, they said they couldn't get it perfect. I'm assuming that is now playing out.

I'll check out the 'in phase' thing as I'm considering replacing the main shaft (long one) myself. I can bring it to get balanced but, I would do the install....I'm wondering how you'd get a 'new' driveshaft 'in-phase as you can't mark it before removal.

appreciated!
-d

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post #4 of 9 Old 04-25-2013, 04:53 AM
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Was their balance machine able to balance the whole assembly together?

You don't necessarily have to mark a drive shaft when you remove it from the truck. It would take a bit to try to completely explain on here.
But anyways, to keep a drive shaft in phase you just have to make sure the yokes are (stay)parallel. When people get them out of phase is when they pull the drive shaft apart at the slip joint and don't line the splines back up upon reassembly so the yokes end up not parallel. Sometimes they may be off a tooth or two. This is important for drive shafts that have the slip joint between the u joints.
Now on a shorter drive shaft where it is only one piece, that's where you don't have to mark it when taking it out of the vehicle.



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post #5 of 9 Old 04-29-2013, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks hucory!

Good info. I may take it out and bring it over the shop for re-balancing. I won't worry about marking it unless I take the slip-joint apart....then I'll just mark it at the slip-joint.

I'd assume that if I needed a new complete drive shaft, the new one would be assembled in phase.

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post #6 of 9 Old 04-29-2013, 11:04 AM
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Just make sure they are able to balance it as a whole assembly, if not, it's kind of pointless. Most shops can only balance one piece at a time because their machine isn't big enough.

FWIW, I see you have a short bed, so you can go with a drive shaft without a carrier bearing to lessen the vibrations.

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post #7 of 9 Old 05-01-2013, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hucorey View Post
Just make sure they are able to balance it as a whole assembly, if not, it's kind of pointless. Most shops can only balance one piece at a time because their machine isn't big enough.

FWIW, I see you have a short bed, so you can go with a drive shaft without a carrier bearing to lessen the vibrations.

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Will do!

Your second statement intrigues me....I can really lose the carrier bearing?

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post #8 of 9 Old 05-01-2013, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveyburt View Post
Will do!

Your second statement intrigues me....I can really lose the carrier bearing?
Yes. I was going to go to a one piece but my CCLB was just a few inches too long. They guy said I still could but I would have to go with bigger tires and possibly a 3:55 gear to keep RPM's down

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post #9 of 9 Old 05-01-2013, 09:14 PM
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See hulkamania's post on one piece driveshaft.

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