How to tell if a hub is locked? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-02-2012, 09:45 AM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 124
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
How to tell if a hub is locked?

I am pretty new to 4x4's and an extreme novice when it comes to drive line/suspension issues. Please excuse me if I use any wrong terminology.

I have been reading a lot about the horrors of ESOF 4 wheel drive keeping the hubs locked so I wanted to investigate.

If I crawl under my truck and spin the front drive shaft, the U joint (I believe its called) will spin on one wheel, but not the other. This is with the hubs turned to auto. If I manually lock one hub and repeat the process I can get the U joint to turn on the opposite wheel. If I manually lock both hubs they both seem to sop rotating.

I guess I am asking if there is a way for a novice to tell if one or both of my hubs are locked when they shouldn't be. For instance, if I manually turn my front drive shaft, can I look for movement somewhere to tell me I'm not locked. A friend said "you can just tell"...However, I still cant tell.

Sorry for the long post, thanks for any help. Ive been reading online about it but it can get confusing.

2002 F250 4x4. Extended cab, Auto, 7.3 diesel.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 11-02-2012, 04:14 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 248
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I have manual locking hubs (granny locks), and the way I can tell they're locked is if you turn the front wheel all the way to the left or right and drive, you'll feel a distinctive clunk. Almost like they're rubbing against something. It's just the way Ford made em.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 11-02-2012, 07:51 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 124
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Well that test doesn't really work for me. I can't tell because my truck has 35's on it...There is a scrubbing sound when I turn sharply already.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 11-03-2012, 11:28 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 248
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I have 35s, too. It's not the scrubbing noise you're looking for. There's a clunking. It will feel like you're running the curb almost. Get out of the truck and have some one drive it forward and back so you can see the 4x4 is engaged. If it is engaged, then drive it into a tight corner (wheel all the way over), you will DEFINITELY feel the clunking.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 11-03-2012, 11:30 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7,957
Thanks: 62
Thanked 164 Times in 157 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
jack the front one side at a time is fine

lock the hub turn the tire while holding the u joint at the knuckle if you can't hold it in place it's locked
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 11-03-2012, 12:46 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 124
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Ok I can jack up one side at a time next time I get a chance.

About the clunking when turning sharp...I would only here that if my hubs are locked AND I have switched to 4wd (making the transfer case engage) right?

In other words, if my hubs are locked, but I am not switched to 4wd I should not hear the clunk?

I do here a low clunk noise whenever I turn into my driveway, which is also a steep incline. I read on here sometime before that could be sway bar bushings...I guess I'll look for some pics and investigate that too. Thanks for all the input
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 11-03-2012, 01:52 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dover
Posts: 1,618
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pipewrench View Post

If I crawl under my truck and spin the front drive shaft, the U joint (I believe its called) will spin on one wheel, but not the other. This is with the hubs turned to auto. If I manually lock one hub and repeat the process I can get the U joint to turn on the opposite wheel. If I manually lock both hubs they both seem to sop rotating.
If I am reading right, you have it correct and neither hub is locked.

Just in case I dont have it right, you can just slide under the front and try and spin the axle u-joint without jacking anything up. If it spins, the hub is unlocked. If it cant spin, that hub is locked no matter what the dial says. These are completely spring operated so when you twist to unlock, there is a spring inside that is relied on to actually unlock the hub.
If the hub is full of old grease and is getting gummy, they will stick.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 11-03-2012, 03:04 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 124
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Thanks turbostang, that was a really easy test and it passed. Both will spin freely. However, while doing that I spotted something that I might need to be concerned with.

On the passenger side, on both sides of the U joint there is a rubber grommet out of place, kind of dangling.

On the side coming from axle and the side going to the wheel. Not sure if its just a dust protection thing, but its out of place for sure.

I also used some needle nose to remove the ring around the locking hubs and pulled the hubs out. I verified that the inner part (has small snap ring around it) would spin freely in auto and not move in lock.

With all that being said I am still considering buying some warn manual locking hubs and plugging the factory vacuum lines wherever they are. I would prefer the simplest system possible. Any thoughts on switching from working (for now) auto hubs to manual hubs? Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 11-03-2012, 03:07 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 124
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I forgot to add...the reason I got on this kick of wanting check these is that I am on a quest to achieve highest mpgs possible.
Like I said I have 35's on there now, no lift just a leveling kit... I am considering going to factory tire size to get mpg's up. I was hoping the hubs were locked and that I could correct it to get better mileage.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 11-03-2012, 03:16 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dover
Posts: 1,618
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
The one on the axle tube is purely dust protection. There is a main seal on the other end of that tube (at the diff). If you get into mud or water that the axle will be submersed, I would replace soon. If not, I wouldnt worry about it till you have to work on the front end. The other seal (hub?)on is a very expensive seal and is critical for the vacuum hub operation.

From what I have gathered, that inner spline isnt what will get stuck. It is the slider that joins the inner and outer spline couplings.

I too went manual hub. You dont have to buy a set of warn hubs if your factory hubs give you a manual function but the warn hubs are better. Auto function can be great when working right but total headache when not. I think most just revert to manual.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors